K member removal - engine in car

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lilcuda

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I'm in the process of rebuilding my front suspension while converting to big bolt pattern brakes. I've got the front end apart and I want to clean & paint the k member. It's pretty greasy on top & rusty (surface rust) underneath and I'm wondering which will be worse, laying under the car trying to remove the grease & prep for painting with POR 15 or pulling the k member while leaving the engine installed so I can send it out for cleaning and maybe powder coating.

Anybody removed an early a k member while leaving the engine in place?
 
hold the engine up with a hoist to get the k-frame out and then put blocks of wood under the engine to hold it till you're done. OR...blocks of wood on inner fenders,steel bar-tube-whatever with a hole drilled thru it for a bolt. Put a hook on the engine, lift the engine up so it's off the k-frame and secure it to the bolt.
Probably a piece of chain...or if the hood is off and you have a gantry-type thing-a-ma-jigger,hook a comealong up and lift the engine up a bit. All sorts of ways, be sure to leave yourself enough room under the car and be safe!
 
The engine is sitting on the K member.
The shock towers aren't srong enough to support the engine so a homemade bridge isn't a good idea. I've heard it is doable but the steering shaft will need to come apart and the splash guards, etc..
Your engine hoist will have to have a long beam and a lot of travel to hold the engine up after the car is already up.
More than one way to skin a cat ? Seems so. An easy way ? Nope. Hope this helps
 
I have not done this myself but have seen several articles in the mopar mags that show how. First get the car supported very well on jack stands high enough to give you space to lower and raise the k member on a floor jack. Cut some lengths of 2x6 to lay on top of the inner fender flats to spread the load across the sheet metal. You may have to remove some items like washer bottles, electrical components, ect. to give you room for the supports. You need a strong cross beam like a 4x6, heavy angle iron, box tubing, ect to use as a cross beam. You can use blocking to raise the beam up to give you room to get the motor attached to the cross beam. I would remove the carb and use a lift plate but I suppose chain(s) could be used to hang the motor from the beam. It needs to be snug enough to keep the motor from dropping as much as possible. Leave the tranny mount attached to the chassis to keep the motor in position and supported. Unbolt the motor mounts and drop the K member. Pretty simple to do.
 
pull the k-frame and be done.. i ran my hoist in from the side to hold the motor and then dropped the k-frame straight down...

alterK034.jpg


alterK030.jpg


alterK046.jpg
 
Don't know why but I assumed the OP didn't have a hoist or cherry picker. Kind of obvious how with the proper equipment. Perhaps I assume to much?
 
Don't know why but I assumed the OP didn't have a hoist or cherry picker. Kind of obvious how with the proper equipment. Perhaps I assume to much?



hmmmm.. not sure if he has a hoist or not. if not hold the motor with a couple 2x4 board sand a chain. across the engine bay
 
I do have access to an engine hoist. My friend has one that I can borrow.

I know I would have to remove the steering column. I've done that dozens of times and can do that in my sleep almost. The only thing left would be to support the engine & remove the motor mount & k member bolts.

I guess I was just looking for input as to whether this is a total pain in the butt or if it's reasonably easy.

Here's a couple of photos of the car in it's current state.
 

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Redfish, who's opinions I respect, thinks the inner fender structure is not strong enough to support the engine weight. I think it would be especially with the trans mount helping to support/spread the load. Anybody got thoughts?
 
4 x 4 piece of wood, towels folded over where the fenders mount. 4 pieces of threaded rod with nuts into the intake carb pad run through angle iron. Crank the nuts down enough to lift the motor and remove the K. I've done this on my Dart 2x without a mark.
 
4 x 4 piece of wood, towels folded over where the fenders mount. 4 pieces of threaded rod with nuts into the intake carb pad run through angle iron. Crank the nuts down enough to lift the motor and remove the K. I've done this on my Dart 2x without a mark.

Yep, the inners will hold it just fine. As noted take precautions to not mar your paint.
 
Damn Crackedback would you get rid of that image. Every time I read one of your posts I get mesmerized!

Nice '66 Lilcuda. With an engine hoist available I would definitely keep the motor in and remove the K member. Way easier on the body and much better results.
 
Man, I can't remember how many times I was under that car and never came close to dropping the k-member. I'm sure it's never been out. A couple of options work well. Any support under the oil pan if the car won't have to be moved while the k-member is out. This could be a piece of plywood on a jackstand or a simple wood frame (4x4s with one directly under the pan). I have also pulled many k-members in wrecking yards with support this way. I have also used a piece of steel across the frame rails under the water pump snout, but I'd opt for support under the pan first.
 
Across frame rails and in a couple of bolt holes at the water pump is a very good suggestion. Thanks
 
I do have access to an engine hoist. My friend has one that I can borrow.

I know I would have to remove the steering column. I've done that dozens of times and can do that in my sleep almost. The only thing left would be to support the engine & remove the motor mount & k member bolts.

I guess I was just looking for input as to whether this is a total pain in the butt or if it's reasonably easy.

Here's a couple of photos of the car in it's current state.


as far apart as it is now, you may as well just pull it.
 
Damn Crackedback would you get rid of that image. Every time I read one of your posts I get mesmerized!

Nice '66 Lilcuda. With an engine hoist available I would definitely keep the motor in and remove the K member. Way easier on the body and much better results.

Lol, my scrolling freezes on that image.
 
I do have access to an engine hoist. My friend has one that I can borrow.

I know I would have to remove the steering column. I've done that dozens of times and can do that in my sleep almost. The only thing left would be to support the engine & remove the motor mount & k member bolts.

Do you plan to lift just the engine weight and work around and over the engine hoist with the K frame r and r ?
 
I have seen where they take the carb off and use threaded rods
from the carb bolt holes in the manifold up thru a 2 2x12 pieces of wood laid across the inner fenders.
A couple of large washers and double nut all 4 rods.
Diconnect everything and drop the K-Frame.
 
stick some big wood blocks under the oil pan and drop the k frame. i did it when i rebuilt my front end and wanted to reinforce the k frame and steering box at the same time. it's really super easy!
 
If you use the wood across the fenders be sure the wood is thick enough. It will sag after a few days--hours even if not. The fenders should be fine if no rust. These old cars were made strong
 
Nice '66 Lilcuda. With an engine hoist available I would definitely keep the motor in and remove the K member. Way easier on the body and much better results.

Thanks!

You mean easier on my body? The more I look at it, the more I don't like the idea of laying under it trying to get the k member clean enough for paint. On the other hand, I'm trying draw the line somewhere. These projects tend to snowball. It's not a show car and won't ever be while I own it. My goal has always been to make it a nice, fun driver.
 
Man, I can't remember how many times I was under that car and never came close to dropping the k-member. I'm sure it's never been out. A couple of options work well. Any support under the oil pan if the car won't have to be moved while the k-member is out. This could be a piece of plywood on a jackstand or a simple wood frame (4x4s with one directly under the pan). I have also pulled many k-members in wrecking yards with support this way. I have also used a piece of steel across the frame rails under the water pump snout, but I'd opt for support under the pan first.

Too bad for me you didn't take it out and have it powder coated when you owned it! I wouldn't be in this predicament now. :)
 
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