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Question...do you have to line bore if you dont have orig caps??

Yes. Any time you change a cap (on a rod or main) you need to re-bore the assembly. Otherwise the parts won't fit together correctly and can create drag or lock up due to the mismatch in the bores. If you replace the main caps and do not align bore it, the crank can get locked solid when you torque the main bearing caps. This is why you have to keep them in the exact same order/position and on the same orientation when putting your block back together.

Always match the anchor slot on the caps with the anchor slots on the main bearings. Same with the rods. Put the anchor slot of the cap on the same side as the anchor slot in the rod. This will ensure proper orientation for the caps.
 
Bore measures 4.063-.064 with el-cheapo micrometer.

Std 340 bore is 4.040". This block is reading .023 - .024" over with the cheapo micrometers. What ever that is worth. To be sure, it should be measured with a good reliable micrometer.

Also, I think that your casting date is really 1-7-70. It is definately a 1970 model year engine. If it were a 7-7-70 casting, it would be a 1971 model year engine as the changeover is between June and July. Any casting/build of a block after July should be for the following model year.
 
Your definately way on the high side for a block with no main caps, I just picked up a 1969 340 standard bore bare block with the main caps and it was degreased and sonic checked for $300 from a fellow member. You might want to consider dropping the price a bit.
 

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I am with krazykuda on that being cast on 1-7-70 on the night shift at 8pm.This one was casted on 1-9-70.
 

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Thats a fair price, I got a great deal on mine, I think it was because he had three 340 blocks to get rid of. Good luck with the sale.
 
Thanks! Just bummed all these PM's to buy just the block separately from the car I have posted and then nothing! They all must of went on vacation with each other and don't have internet access!:disgust:

No main caps will scare most everyone away.

Ask around about the cost to line bore and obtain a decent set of caps that fit. The fact you can pick up std bore blocks with original caps for 250-400 and you'll get an idea of interest. I know what I would pay for a minimum .020 over block, knowing the cost to get it 'right' and correct for use.

Good luck with the sale.
 
Thanks! Just bummed all these PM's to buy just the block separately from the car I have posted and then nothing! They all must of went on vacation with each other and don't have internet access!:disgust:

That happens a lot
Wait till I start parting out my complete running 68 GTS,they'll be crying the blues to not do it well maybe they should buy it before it comes to that.........
 
Since you do not have the original main bearing caps, a good alternative would be to suggest someone make it a 4 bolt main bearing block. I'm not suggesting that you go out and buy a set of 4 bolt main caps just to sell the block...cricket, cricket. You wouldn't be able to recoup the money spent for the 4 bolt caps.

Hang in there, everybody chimes in, until it is time to put down some ca$h, then they get real quiet.... It could be that commitment thing that women complain about men so much...
 
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