1966 dual master cylinder

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memike

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about 3 years ago I got this info from grumpascreature and I have been looking in this Brakes forum all the way back to the 4th page.
I seen a new member buzzkill71 hit a wall because he has the single pod master cylinder, even though my brakes do a great job in my little Valiant Sedan and all new I see it is time to move forward and get a dual MC.
I looked at many!!!MANY threads and still could not find what MC to get and Portioning Valve and push rod for a 1966 Valiant.
It sure would be cool to use my existing brake lines :glasses7:
Grumpascreature said Quot= The master cylinder you are looking for is A1 Cardone part number 10-1523 ... :help:
Looking for any help at all on this and maybe we can complete a thread on this upgrade for this early A 66 Valiant.
I do not want front disc bakes at this time and looking for the safety factor.
The part #in this thread I have no idea where or who to call or find it.
where is a list of parts that will bolt on this 66 plymouth A body ?

Thank you for all the help and time it will take to get this dun ASAP :coffee2:
After seeing our members Barracuda I think it's time to park Victoria till this is dun.. :clock:
 
[ame="http://www.google.com/search?gcx=w&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=A1+Cardone++10-1523#q=A1+Cardone++10-1523&hl=en&safe=off&prmd=imvns&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ei=XXWlTuWDBMTm0QG45fHiAw&ved=0CF0QrQQ&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.,cf.osb&fp=a5c7830d6919493f&biw=1280&bih=909"]A1 Cardone 10-1523 - Google Search[/ame]


looking at th epics of that one i'm not so sure that the one you want. i would buy a 67 dart master cyl. should bolt right on. no? you want a drum brake master cyl. the part number you posted looks like a disc brake one. maybe they are just random pics though.
 
Mike, I used a new style master cylinder, can't remember the year, it has the plastic tank/top, the base is steel, mounts to the firewall using 2 posts. You will need to get the adapter plate to bolt it on, no mods needed. I bought an adjustable brake rod but found out the stock one worked the best. I used a different distribution block and an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear brakes, also bent all new lines, all works great. Keep in mind I have 73 Duster discs up front and 11" cop car drums in the rear on my 66 Valiant, but these parts should work fine on Victoria with your stock brakes. I will try to find links for you Mike of the parts I used. :glasses7:
 
Thank you thank you Thank you :cheers: This old thread has me on track
here. rock auto for $23

CARDONE SELECT Part # 131323 New CARDONE Select Master Cylinder

http://cardone.com/English/club/members/customer/ecat_brands/imageinfo.asp?PARTNUM=13-1323


not sure you even need a proportional valve with the drum brakes. most guys i know run the front brake line from the master cyl. to a tee then to each wheel..
You are correct from all the reading i just did abodyjoe :notworth: Thank you so much, all I need is to get my parts and fittings and bench bleed my new MC and install :cheers: Yall sure got me all fixed up quick this morning :cheers: Thank you so much :coffee2:
I will be adding this to my restoration thread hopefully this month =D>
This thread will help many.. :cheers:
 
Mike, I used a new style master cylinder, can't remember the year, it has the plastic tank/top, the base is steel, mounts to the firewall using 2 posts. You will need to get the adapter plate to bolt it on, no mods needed. I bought an adjustable brake rod but found out the stock one worked the best. I used a different distribution block and an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear brakes, also bent all new lines, all works great. Keep in mind I have 73 Duster discs up front and 11" cop car drums in the rear on my 66 Valiant, but these parts should work fine on Victoria with your stock brakes. I will try to find links for you Mike of the parts I used. :glasses7:
I think that all I need is the oem MC and no proportioning valve Keith, You have a great set up, maybe one day for me =D>
But for know I am going to keep the drums all around.
I have seen the plastic tank/top on the steel base on yours and figured it was there for disc brakes :notworth:, maybe one day, But for know Victoria will be rolling on her new shoes, she stops on a dime now, but after seeing our new member I said I have put this off long enough :coffee2:
 
Looks like I will be going with one I don't need an adapter plate, and hop I can get a push rod to work.
Thank you all for the help on this, all I need to do is hope a push rod can be had to make one of the MC abodyjoe and stansblue72 posted 66340SEDAN
 
I think Ehrenberg sells dual chamber cylinders on ebay that are a direct bolt on for early a bodies. I think his ebay username is rehrenberg (not sure about the spelling). I just read Buzzkill71's thread about his brake failure, and he said he has a dual chamber cylinder, so not sure where the failure was with his car.
 
I think Ehrenberg sells dual chamber cylinders on ebay that are a direct bolt on for early a bodies. I think his ebay username is rehrenberg (not sure about the spelling). I just read Buzzkill71's thread about his brake failure, and he said he has a dual chamber cylinder, so not sure where the failure was with his car.
I seen that in his last post :coffee2: If he has to pump his brakes he has a fluid leak some where or his brakes needed bled or something, I have never had to pump my brakes and his car did not come factory with dual pot MC. If it did That would be news to me, I called NAPA and they never showed a dual pot on a 66 eather, so I am going to be going dual real soon, If front lines break I still have rear.
If a rear wheel cylinder goes I will still have front brakes, just having a single is scary :coffee2: I will check Ehrenberg or rehrenberg with ever, Thank you 64physhy.
 
buzzkill had a later model duel master cylinder conversion on his car same as you are doing, if the mastercylinder fails duel reservoir isn't going to help, but if a break line or wheel cylinder fails a duel reservoir will keep you from losing all your brake fluid and keep 1/2 of your brake system functioning so you can slow down or stop

also a good idea to make sure the EMERGENCY BRAKES are in good working order, in case of an emergency
the most common problem with the emergency brakes are old stuck rusty cables so it is a VERY good idea to replace them if they are old, new ones are about $15 each side and you can find them everywhere (it is a good idea to take your old ones with you to make sure they give you the correct ones)
 
I used the plastic top metal bottom style master cylinder, ran the rear line straight off the master and ran the other line down to the distibution block used the distribution block as a splitter for the fronts....I also ran all new lines.... Gearing up for the scarebird conversion as 9 inch drums don't cut it in todays traffic....
 
Don't forget the "Y" block, as the one for a single resevior m/c only has one input, and your dual m/c has two outputs.

I've heard of people running the rear straight out of the m/c and using the rear port on the Y for the other side of the front.

Never done it myself, but sounds kinda iffy.

64x2- Musta posted at the same time-
 
buzzkill had a later model duel master cylinder conversion on his car same as you are doing, if the mastercylinder fails duel reservoir isn't going to help, but if a break line or wheel cylinder fails a duel reservoir will keep you from losing all your brake fluid and keep 1/2 of your brake system functioning so you can slow down or stop

also a good idea to make sure the EMERGENCY BRAKES are in good working order, in case of an emergency
the most common problem with the emergency brakes are old stuck rusty cables so it is a VERY good idea to replace them if they are old, new ones are about $15 each side and you can find them everywhere (it is a good idea to take your old ones with you to make sure they give you the correct ones)
Mine does work, But I used it a couple of times and I had to unfreeze the long cable =D>

I used the plastic top metal bottom style master cylinder, ran the rear line straight off the master and ran the other line down to the distibution block used the distribution block as a splitter for the fronts....I also ran all new lines.... Gearing up for the scarebird conversion as 9 inch drums don't cut it in todays traffic....
Did you have to add an adapter plate and use a different push rod ??
 
the best option for a drum brake car is the 67 and up 4 bolt drum brake dual master cylinder
the late model 2 bolt plastic reservoir one is designed for disk drum application

I had the same problem with the emergency brake cable that goes from the lever under the dash to the split for the other two, unfortunately I have been unable to find that one new
 
I used a new master cylinder just like this one

http://cgi.ebay.com/CHRYSLER-DODGE-...t=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

I didn't find the one I used but here is a similar one that is offset (mine is not offset), this adapts the newer style 2-post master to the older 4-post

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-A-bod...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5ae32834c5


that master cyl is from something like an 85 diplomat. gotta watch though some are cast iron and not alumn. its dumb luck what you'll get at the parts store..

here is the adapter plate.. RMS is a dealer for them,,, http://www.arengineering.com/mastercyl/mastercar/mastercar.html

with that style master cyl and the adapter plate you will use a stock 73 disc brake style push rod. the master cyl. bore is shallower by the amount of the plate thickness so it all works perfect.

that being said i think a stock 67 style would be fine for this installation. the 85 style is over kill in my opinion.
 
looks like the 67ish style. think you may need a push rod though. if i remember my old valiants correctly the push rod was part of the plunger. its been a while though..
 
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