Tubbing the Valiant

-

Brad426

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2010
Messages
495
Reaction score
12
Location
Ottawa, Ontario Canada
Here are some up date pictures. The hard part is over,,,,I think?
 

Attachments

  • DSC00022.jpg
    92.2 KB · Views: 3,458
  • DSC00023.jpg
    91.6 KB · Views: 2,957
  • DSC00027.jpg
    72.3 KB · Views: 2,698
That looks pretty damn serious. What are you going to use for power?
 

Attachments

  • P7110053.JPG
    62.2 KB · Views: 2,619
Wow thats some serious modding! Now I guess it's time to glue an interior to the important frame work. My guess is your going bb?
 
wow im going to do a mini tub thats a whole lota cutting/welding
 
info on the parts used if you can ..is it a kit or did you buy sep????? nice work looking to do the same pretty soon thanks mike
 
I have a stroked 408 with Projection II EFI & a Supercharger going in with a 518. Everything is custom built for this car. I started out with an Art Morrison and it did not fit. The refunded my money because I took the car to them in Fife, WA they measured it. It was a bit of a group fortification. So I went back to the drawing board.
The MT's are as big as it gets for street strip. I've got about $13K into it (just the rear end). Time to bash tin. Will keep you posted. Cheers
 
Here are some pics of the Valiant on the Rotissarie. This thing is the best investment I have ever made for working on cars. I don't get around so well with these old bones...lol. So move the car insted.

LOL Pay back for the gys in blue, love it
 

Attachments

  • OpinionsT.jpg
    5 KB · Views: 2,457
  • Rot 04.jpg
    109.4 KB · Views: 2,540
  • Rot 03.jpg
    119 KB · Views: 2,480
  • Rot 02.jpg
    110.7 KB · Views: 2,535
  • Rot 01.jpg
    128.3 KB · Views: 2,528
I can,t look!:protest: Your car makes me want to back 1/2 my car LOL.I could also use that rotiseree.Nice work!
 
Wow those rear frame rails are a looong ways from thier original home! I guess thier moved 4" or more..
 
That's some massive meat goin' on there. Nice work. :thumblef: :thumbrig: :thumbup:

Can we get some details on the rotisserie?


Wylde1.
 
is that sublime, or sassy grass? i think im doing sassy grass. looks like were building twins.
 
Yup boys that is FJ6 Sassy Grass Green, All mt mopars have been that color (# color) 70 Cuda, 71 GTX, 70 340 Swinger. I repainted my 2001 Dodge Ram, frame off to look factory. Since sold. The Valiant will stay FJ6. I bought the rotissarie from:

http://www.kmstools.com/

http://www.kmstools.com/search/results?securityToken=e1abbcebf097f5f67e00f1dd94ac5134&search_in_description=1&keyword=rotisserie&x=10&y=12

KMS Tool on sale for $900.00. They are made off shore. I researched builting it myself and the cost of steel is like gold the materials along were over a $1,000.00. It does the job nice and the test will be loading it on the flat deck next Monday to go back over to the shop.

Ay Bigredlid, I'd like to see more pics of you car.

Originaly I was not planning on frame rails or the roll bar but, it sure makes the frame rock solid having them installed. We start the sheet metal next week and then I work on the cleaning of the underside and details. I was thinking of painting all the frame rails and frame supports FJ6 and re undercoating the under body pannels with that black rubberized goo again. What say you? K memver and front suspension satin black. I was thinking powder coating but decied to paint myself, one is cost and the other is I can touch up myself anytime if need be.
Cheers Lads, keep you posted,
Brad
 
I'm just about to get started on the sheet metal in the rear and I could realyy use some pictures and suggestions. Picture are worth a 1000 words and it would help me decide what to direction to go. You can e-mail them to me directly (brad.allore@hotmail.com)
Thanks much.
:prayer:
 
Nice car.
It's a '69 isn't it?
Did Art Morrison fab you up a new back half after all, and if not, who did you end up going with?
I'm thinking about going this way with my '69 Valiant.
 
The metal bashing continues. Heading front to rear but, I do have a question for the experts out there. I was thining to place the shell on jack stands to load or unload the shell as if it was sitting on wheels before I bond the sheet metal & tubs to the inside of the rear quarters. My Bud says to get the drive line back into the car ans set it on the wheels first. I don't want to go through all that work to only remove it later to paint & install the plumbing. It flexs on the rotissarie a bit but all is square on the jack stands. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • DSC00016.jpg
    55.8 KB · Views: 2,307
  • DSC00015.jpg
    59.2 KB · Views: 2,294
  • DSC00012.jpg
    47 KB · Views: 2,290
  • DSC00011.jpg
    54.7 KB · Views: 2,267
  • DSC00010.jpg
    53 KB · Views: 2,205
  • DSC00009.jpg
    68.2 KB · Views: 2,288
  • DSC00008.jpg
    93.3 KB · Views: 2,252
  • DSC00007.jpg
    47.4 KB · Views: 2,280
  • DSC00006.jpg
    78 KB · Views: 2,281
Nice car.
It's a '69 isn't it?
Did Art Morrison fab you up a new back half after all, and if not, who did you end up going with?
I'm thinking about going this way with my '69 Valiant.

No it's not an Art Morison and I had a very bad & expensive experiance with Scott at AM down in Fife, WA.
This is a $8,000.00 AM that did not fit my car after I trailered from Vancouver, BC to Fife Wa. to have the factory measure and fit right there on the spot. No room for screw ups right....WRONG! I'll tell the story if anyone is interested. AM does awsome work but, the sales guy I had is a zero and should go back to greeting customers over at Wal-Mart. ](*,)
 

Attachments

  • DSC01081.JPG
    117.2 KB · Views: 2,240
  • DSC01080.JPG
    96 KB · Views: 2,261
  • DSC01079.JPG
    114 KB · Views: 2,299
  • DSC01078.JPG
    110.7 KB · Views: 2,249
I decided to take a break from the rear of the car and do something different up front. So I decided the front frame rails and shock supports need cleaning up and paint. The old under coating came off with the torch, scraper & wire brush, tried and true method. After it was clean and the metal repairs were complete I put two coats of CRC’s rust converter (marine grade) then two very light coats of Plasti Coat self etching gray primer. Then two light coats of FJ-6 Sassy Grass Green. All from rattle cans. No kidding. My local out parts store can computer color match and paint than put it in spray cans. It ain’t cheap but, it is very handy. Actual in the big picture is more economical than to conventional method with a paint spray gun. 6 cans were $120.00ish and will do the entire frame of the car. The first can is $30.00 because of the time it takes to clean the machine and each can after that is $15.00. If I have to weld in a bracket or something it makes it easy to touch up. FYI
 

Attachments

  • DSC00005.jpg
    56.9 KB · Views: 2,204
  • DSC00006.jpg
    79.6 KB · Views: 2,210
  • DSC00002.jpg
    55.7 KB · Views: 2,169
  • DSC00004.jpg
    61.6 KB · Views: 2,165
  • DSC00007.jpg
    63.8 KB · Views: 2,246
That looks good. What's the name of the store that doe's the paint? I can see where that would be real handy. Looking forward to seeing the car when finished.
 

Attachments

  • P7110057.JPG
    94 KB · Views: 2,287
Nice work! I should have back halved my car cause of all the work involved in the Mini tub and Triangulated 4 Link. I really think I could have done the complete back halve in the same amount of time.
Your car is going to be sweet when it is done. I don't believe I have ever seen a Valiant done like this yet.

So when you say 13K you are having someone else do the fab work right?
 
-
Back
Top