Tubbing the Valiant

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Nice work; looks awesome! It makes me wish I would have continued with the idea of backhalfing mine.
 
That looks good. What's the name of the store that doe's the paint? I can see where that would be real handy. Looking forward to seeing the car when finished.

THank youy for the kind words everyone. This is my very first try at a street car. I'm an old numbers resto guy.

I bought the paint from Lordco Auto Parts. Lordco is like a big UAP or NAPA here in Western Canada. The paint is by PlastiKote called Kustom-Kote (No. 865). Try PlatiKote website and they might list or tell you a local shop that can provide you with Kustom-Kote. I used to paint aircraft and I’m used to some hi-tech equipment and products so I’m not a big fan of rattle cans but, I have to admit I like Plasti-Kote products and this stuff for what it is and where I’m using it. Later I will try the Kustom-Kote with clear coat on another project and see how it turns out.
http://www.plastikote.com/index.jsp
 
Thanks, lordco has a paint store in abbotsford so I will try them first.
 

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Meet-Joe-"Dart";1607841 said:
Man! NICE work... curious about those spray cans too? Where can you buy the custom spray bombs?
My local CarQuest carry,s and mixes paint,they can put in rattle cans also if you want.

So Brad is the Art Morrison setup sitting collecting dust?I,m interested why you didn,t go with it?
 
Man,it's nice that they can throw a rattle can together and color matched to boot,but holy cow the price makes me wince! Im glad I can do it the old fashoined way and just use a spray gun...
 
Things are coming along. Finished up front under the fenders. Does anyone know where I can get the front fender splash gaskets and clips? Resonable price :-k
I'm starting to fabricate the fuel lines and cutting the holes to keep them safe inside the frame. I used CRC rubberised under coating inside the front fenders. I plan to use and aerosol truck bed liner on the mid section and rear when I get back that far. Stand-by One!
 

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Do you think I have enough clearance at the front of the rear tire and lower front of the rear fender. Do you see any other concerns? Thank you.
 

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could you send me or post a pic of how you connected the wheel tubs to the quarters. im worried that the bottom of the quarters will flop around , not being attached
 
Sure, I'm not quite there yet. Working on the drive line to have a change of mind. I do not want to weld although that is best. I do not want to have to paint the car (if I do not have to). I tried an expermint using auto body seam seal on the one rear 1/4 and so far with all the rotation and moving arount it's still sealed. But I have a mind to use epoxy auto body panel bonding suff. 3M makes it and it is said to be like liquid nail is to wood. Honestly, I think that is you nail down the rear 1/4 aft of the wheel tub to the trunk floor or frame. The hoop or arc around the wheel tub to the inner fender is not going any place. I did find this stuff at TP Tools called flexible-edge-repair panel and it looks like the cats *** to repair the fender lip where I had to cut for tire clearance. It would be great to weld this repair panel to the outboard edge of the wheel tub and bond to the inner fender. More surface area to attached.
I'll keep you posted.
 

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That panel bonding stuff is amazing. Used it lots in body shops for glueing on whole 1/4 panels.Need to drill holes for screws to hold the part in place while the adhesive cures,and then weld the holes up..But imho much faster than welding and also eliminates warping from heat. Those flexible edge repair panels can be had at any canadian tire.
 
Nice ride! you are doing an excellent job :prayer: where about's in Pitt Meadows are you? im right next door!:toothy7:
 
Could you post some close up photos of your lower shock mounts? I'm going to have to fab some up and yours look to be exactly what I need to create.

Thanks,

Brad
 
I feel like I'm over the hump now and starting to assemble the car. Going to put the diff in this week and get the rear of the car on wheels over the holidays the guys are coming over to help lower the car front onto the engine, "K" and transmission. It will be like Christmas for me to see that done. So far all the painting & coatings on the bottom has been rattle can. My observation is that if you follow the directions to the letter and watch the temp in the shop it turns out very well. It's going to make any touch ups easy. Stay tuned, safey holiday season to all.
 

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Looking good Brad! I read about the lordco rattle can painting and was shocked about the price,so it's good to hear you at least got good results for those high $$.

Myself I feel you could have invested in a small air compressor and touch up gun for not much more than you paid to Lardco fo the rattle cans,and then just got regular old paint mixed up.
 
So Brad is the Art Morrison setup sitting collecting dust?I,m interested why you didn,t go with it?[/QUOTE]

I returned the entire set up ($8,000.00) to Art Morrison. Long story short. I trailered the car to Fife, WA so AM could take the dimessions first hand. When I went to install the rear clip it was way off. 2.5" to one side way off. AM built it "centered". I call Scott there (the sales and messuring guy) to tell them that Mopars are 2.5" offset...Here's what AM's sales rep. said, "that's what unuversal joints are for". My next e-mail was to Mr. Morrison. I did get a full refund but it cost me two trips to Seattle and a whole lot of stress.............so I built my own. :sad1:
 
Could you post some close up photos of your lower shock mounts? I'm going to have to fab some up and yours look to be exactly what I need to create.

Thanks,

Brad

Here ya go Brad. Might be easier just to buy them from Strange Engineering. Cheers
 

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So Brad is the Art Morrison setup sitting collecting dust?I,m interested why you didn,t go with it?

I returned the entire set up ($8,000.00) to Art Morrison. Long story short. I trailered the car to Fife, WA so AM could take the dimessions first hand. When I went to install the rear clip it was way off. 2.5" to one side way off. AM built it "centered". I call Scott there (the sales and messuring guy) to tell them that Mopars are 2.5" offset...Here's what AM's sales rep. said, "that's what unuversal joints are for". My next e-mail was to Mr. Morrison. I did get a full refund but it cost me two trips to Seattle and a whole lot of stress.............so I built my own. :sad1:[/QUOTE]

Sorry to hit a nerve Brad.Glad you got it straightened out with a full refund.It says alot about Mr. Morrisons dealings.:icon_smi:His sales rep sounds like a chebby only guy.:-x
 
I returned the entire set up ($8,000.00) to Art Morrison. Long story short. I trailered the car to Fife, WA so AM could take the dimessions first hand. When I went to install the rear clip it was way off. 2.5" to one side way off. AM built it "centered". I call Scott there (the sales and messuring guy) to tell them that Mopars are 2.5" offset...Here's what AM's sales rep. said, "that's what unuversal joints are for". My next e-mail was to Mr. Morrison. I did get a full refund but it cost me two trips to Seattle and a whole lot of stress.............so I built my own. :sad1:
Sorry to hit a nerve Brad.Glad you got it straightened out with a full refund.It says alot about Mr. Morrisons dealings.:icon_smi:His sales rep sounds like a chebby only guy.:-x[/QUOTE]

No kidding! That or just another obnoxious salesperson with lousy people skills.Glad it got straightened out!
 
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