NOS, is this possible

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memike

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I am not looking to go out with a bang, but an extra 30 hp or even 50 would be nice if there is a way to do this up stream of my 390 holley in my breather tube, I am taking a risk of showing my ignorance in this thread :D But it won't be the first time. I have plenty of fuel I believe entering my little 170/ and I know the bottom end of these /6 will handle the added power, so with all this said I was wondering if we have any NOS experts here that can help me see this threw and make a few passes at our 1/8 mile fun track, I can run a 11.30 now and I drive my 66 plymouth every day and would like to enjoy a passable 11.0 class race now and then, I have never ever had any experience with NOS but I have been looking at some tec help on u yuutuub It would be nice to have a small bottle and dry spray it in the picture below....... or am I just fooling myself :sign3:, and yes I would like to hide it and remove it :glasses7:

Still wondering if I should hit the post button :banghead:
Here is the system I was watching here VVVVV

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yN4XVIKrWEM&feature=results_video&playnext=1&list=PL283694B10C37A727"]NOS Nitrous Oxide Dry Fogger N2O Injection System - YouTube[/ame]
 

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Yup but don't use a dry system. I plan on filing the rings on mine for nitrous use. Maybe a 200 plate shot.
 
No expert what so ever,but I've asked that question a number of times of people far more familiar with NOS,and with Cast Pistons I was told I could handle a 75 HP Shot without worry !!!But they wouldn't be comfortable going any higher !! That stuff (NOS) scares me for some reason !! Maybe it's the KABOOM Theory ??? Although,now that I have plenty of beef down under,hmmmmm !!!
 
Not stupid at all. Wet and dry refers to fuel when you're talking about nitrous. A dry shot is a shot of nitrous with no fuel. Conventional nitrous systems use a fuel and nitrous solenoid. The system adds additional fuel at the same time as nitrous. The dry shot adds no fuel. With a dry shot, there's more chance to hurt the motor by leaning out. A lot of people try to lean out the nitrous to get it as fast as possible, but that's risky. If you use it safely, you won't have a problem. Stock cast pistons can take about 100 shot without problem as long as the ring end gaps are filed right.
 
I believe that a wet system supplies fuel as well as no2. A dry system just sprays the NO2. Dry has a much higher risk of going BOOOOOOM.
 
Yup but don't use a dry system. I plan on filing the rings on mine for nitrous use. Maybe a 200 plate shot.

I really don't know the difference between the wet and dry SS, could I still shoot it before the carb in my breather tube ?
200 shot will get yours down the track I bet :thumblef:
But for me I just want a small shot to play with and I have been reading and watching videos to school me on how to use this stuff :sign3: and I would like to shoot it before the carb :happy1: But if I ever learn how to wire in my signal switch and get the right size NOS jet so I don't over shoot it I may give this a try.
 
Thanks Stroker, I get it now. so would you use dry system on a EFI, provided you could inject more fuel through the injectors??
 
Not stupid at all. Wet and dry refers to fuel when you're talking about nitrous. A dry shot is a shot of nitrous with no fuel. Conventional nitrous systems use a fuel and nitrous solenoid. The system adds additional fuel at the same time as nitrous. The dry shot adds no fuel. With a dry shot, there's more chance to hurt the motor by leaning out. A lot of people try to lean out the nitrous to get it as fast as possible, but that's risky. If you use it safely, you won't have a problem. Stock cast pistons can take about 100 shot without problem as long as the ring end gaps are filed right.
Well shute!! I better stay away from this and stay in the 11.30 class, I hate peddling to stay in 12.0 :eek:ops: I know it's not fast but it's makes for a good day away from the house. Thank you for your time again SS :thumblef: I am looking forward to your new passes with that great head you have ready :cheers:

I believe that a wet system supplies fuel as well as no2. A dry system just sprays the NO2. Dry has a much higher risk of going BOOOOOOM.
I am staying away from it..... Thank you :thumblef:
 
Thanks Stroker, I get it now. so would you use dry system on a EFI, provided you could inject more fuel through the injectors??

Yes. That's what the dry shot was actually marketed for. THe 5.0 rustang crowd. Most of the time the nitrous injector installs in a hole drilled into the plastic air hose going to the throttle body. Nitrous isn't a bad thing. You just need to do your homework. I probably won't end up doing it on mine but I am kicking it around.
 
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVwBPorILOQ&feature=related"]Massive Nitrous Explosion, Car Blows up - YouTube[/ame]
This is the one thing that has always made me so leery of Nitrous....
 
I would rather go to a nitrous shootout than a top fuel event, they are cheaper (tickets) and more entertaining.
 
Nitrous per say is NOT flammable in and of itself!!!!!!!!! It is a oxygenate hence it adds a boost of oxygen to your charge in your cylinder.That race car did not explode because of nitrous!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You can take a bottle of nitrous open it up and put a torch to it and it will do nothing but put the flame out ,Mike in your situation I would go with a plate system under the carb hence a wet system you will be adding a fuel solenoid and a nitrous solenoid with a 12 volt switch on your throttle arm to give the solenoids power at FULL throttle--Steve
 
Nitrous per say is NOT flammable in and of itself!!!!!!!!! It is a oxygenate hence it adds a boost of oxygen to your charge in your cylinder.That race car did not explode because of nitrous!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You can take a bottle of nitrous open it up and put a torch to it and it will do nothing but put the flame out ,Mike in your situation I would go with a plate system under the carb hence a wet system you will be adding a fuel solenoid and a nitrous solenoid with a 12 volt switch on your throttle arm to give the solenoids power at FULL throttle--Steve
Just wondering what causes those kind of explosions??
 
I am not looking to go out with a bang, but an extra 30 hp or even 50 would be nice if there is a way to do this up stream of my 390 holley in my breather tube, I am taking a risk of showing my ignorance in this thread :D But it won't be the first time. I have plenty of fuel I believe entering my little 170/ and I know the bottom end of these /6 will handle the added power, so with all this said I was wondering if we have any NOS experts here that can help me see this threw and make a few passes at our 1/8 mile fun track, I can run a 11.30 now and I drive my 66 plymouth every day and would like to enjoy a passable 11.0 class race now and then, I have never ever had any experience with NOS but I have been looking at some tec help on u yuutuub It would be nice to have a small bottle and dry spray it in the picture below....... or am I just fooling myself :sign3:, and yes I would like to hide it and remove it :glasses7:


I would like to add my 2-cents here... you know me; always buttin' in....

First off, those are eighth-mile times, you're quoting, right? You never said in this post, but from other things I have read about your car, I felt sure that was right.

You want to pick that car up a little, but not go "wild" wwith modofocations that would destroy the street driveability of it, my solution would be to simply locate a replacement slant 6 that is a 225, and swap it into there. Those engines can be found all over the place, in all states of repair from worn-out to freshly rebuilt, for probbly less money thsn you'd have spent on a nitrous system, and the performance increase will proably be greater. While the engine is out of the car, you could mill the head, and install a cam ffor a LOT more grunt, if you wanted. I'm not talking about going 11-to-1 with the compression or installing a wild cam with an obnoxious idle and no low end torque. Just a moderate regrind, some more compression, and that little car of yours would feel like it had a totslly new lease on life!

The only problem with this plan is that the 170 headers might not work with the taller 225 block. You can probably work out a trade for some appropriate headers; there are lots of 170s around, I believe.

Whatever your problems with this swap, I think overall, you'll like having the performance increase (CONSIDERABLE!!!!) available to you 100-percent of the time, with no threat of "KA-BOOM," and probably more available horsepower, to boot.

That's the way I'd spend MY money, if I were looking at a similar hop-up.
All of your engine accessories, such as the alternator, distributor, and water pump would bolt right on from the 170.

Good luck with whatever you decide!:hello1:
 
The people that blow them up are usually trying to get every last HP by running the fuel lean. Just putting a small wet plate with a small spray is not going to make it go Kaboom. Just set it up rich, and have fun. It'll get you into the next class I'm sure.

Now memike, if you start getting addicted to it, and want more and more, and run it on the ragged edge, all bets are off :)

Grant
 
Cheapest,easiest way to bring your times down abit and still drive home,is to bring along your little 13 inch tires.:D.Jack it up at the track,pull the 14,s and install your old 13,s.Cheap,cheap!Happy,Happy!!:burnout:

This should drop your rear ratio abit for a day of fun.JMO:thumblef:
 
NOS Top Shot. Its a hidden wet system that slides onto your carb's air cleaaner stud. Easy to hide and remove.
 
I would like to add my 2-cents here... you know me; always buttin'
in....

First off, those are eight-mile times, you're quoting, right? You never said in this post, but from other things I have read about your car, I felt sure that was right.

You want to pick that car up a little, but not go "wild" wwith modofocations that would destroy the street driveability of it, my solution would be to simply locate a replacement slant 6 that is a 225, and swap it into there. Those engines can be found all over the place, in all states of repair from worn-out to freshly rebuilt, for probbly less money thsn you'd have spent on a nitrous system, and the performance increase will proably be greater. While the engine is out of the car, you could mill the head, and install a cam ffor a LOT more grunt, if you wanted. I'm not talking about going 11-to-1 with the compression or installing a wild cam with an obnoxious idle and no low end torque. Just a moderate regrind, some more compression, and that little car of yours would feel like it had a totslly new lease on life!

The only problem with this plan is that the 170 headers might not work with the taller 225 block. You can probably work out a trade for some appropriate headers; there are lots of 170s around, I believe.

Whatever your problems with this swap, I think overall, you'll like having the performance increase (CONSIDERABLE!!!!) available to you 100-percent of the time, with no threat of "KA-BOOM," and probably more available horsepower, to boot.

That's the way I'd spend MY money, if I were looking at a similar hop-up.
All of your engine accessories, such as the alternator, distributor, and water pump would bolt right on from the 170.

Good luck with whatever you decide!:hello1:
Thank you Bill, and I agree, I need to snag up a 225/ and build a block :thumblef:
I was thinking out loud and it hit me, my little 17/ is a no blow by 67.000 mile engine and nice and loose :D, Hit it with a shot after 3.000 and then again in second gear at 3.000 rpm for chits and giggles :burnout:
Wind her up to 5.100 :happy1: and that's where I am at in second gear at 1/8 mile.
some times I just get to thinking :cheers:



I like Bill's idea.
I do to, and will do :happy1:

The people that blow them up are usually trying to get every last HP by running the fuel lean. Just putting a small wet plate with a small spray is not going to make it go Kaboom. Just set it up rich, and have fun. It'll get you into the next class I'm sure.

Now memike, if you start getting addicted to it, and want more and more, and run it on the ragged edge, all bets are off :)

Grant
I am sure it would :thumblef:, and make for a fun day :thumblef:

Cheapest,easiest way to bring your times down abit and still drive home,is to bring along your little 13 inch tires.:D.Jack it up at the track,pull the 14,s and install your old 13,s.Cheap,cheap!Happy,Happy!!:burnout:

This should drop your rear ratio abit for a day of fun.JMO:thumblef:
I have had that on my mind to do one day before they rot :D , They are in good shape and much MUCH lighter :burnout:

NOS Top Shot. Its a hidden wet system that slides onto your carb's air cleaaner stud. Easy to hide and remove.
That is some of the stuff I was looking at :burnout:


I want to thank everyone that jumped in and helped keep me neat on the streets :D:cheers::cheers:
 
Can't tell you what exploded that car,You think the nitrous bottle was under the hood??? probably a fuel leak or a back fire through the carb,When he took off from the line as soon as he brought the rev's up there was a problem,It was not nitrous in and of itself that blew the hood apart,I'm just thankful it looked like the driver got out and no one else got hurt.When anything like this happens and the guy uses nitrous it always get's blamed,Hell I've had a guy tell me that he got rear ended and his nitrous bottle blew up a telephone pole--Not happening folks-WHy do you think they have blow -off disc's on the bottle??? you mean to tell me if the bottle pressure get's to high and the disc ruptures and releases under the car it causes an explosion NOT!!! you think nhra would allow that-Not thinkin so--Oh well Megacab is one the right path top shot for a little action--You'll love it Mike
 
The guys getting big Nitrous explosions usually are shooting a bunch, and get it in the engine at too low of an RPM. I believe NOS likes 3,000 rpms. and wide open throttle minimum. My brother has run scads of the stuff 150 Hp at a time through a mostly stock 350 Chebby, with nary even a melted spark plug. Years ago NOS told me a 100 Hp shot on a stock piston 225 would be fine. I never did try it, I wish I had. The suggestion of shorter tires is good. They will look funny, but check out the slicks made for front drive cars, some are REALLY short.
 
It is assured that we all know the 1/8 mile is a gears and heads game, and a good bite for a great 60' time :burnout:
I am at 2.700 lbs and plenty of bite for what hp I have:yawinkle:
That being said my low gears and even lower with good 13'' rear light wheels and tires :glasses7: and remove all the weight off the front drag :glasses7: my front wheels give me :banghead: my daily driver wheels (Heavy Rallies 14'' radial 215 70)
So if I have pie pans (skinniest tire) with high air pressure ( way less drag ) will give me at the best .50 and I was thinking a shot of high mix 02 NOS will give me the other end speed I need :burnout:
I need to have a good day at the track with my granny driver /6. :thumblef:
The new rear axle bearings helped allot :thumblef: ( again less drag )

Again Thank you all for your thoughts and experience you are sending my way.
 
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