Throttle cable/gas pedal issues - holley on a 318

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VSTwister

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I have a problem that seems to be unique in my online searching on the topic. I removed my factory 2bbl intake and Carter BBD carb some time ago and replaced it with a Weiand Stealth and Holley 1850 4bbl setup. (318/904 Scamp) Aside from the typical issues of the auto kickdown and throttle cables (of which I'm already researching Lokar and Bouchillon for and seems fine for the common problems of this conversion) I have a problem with the gas pedal meeting the floor before I get to full wide open throttle on the Holley. I have just a wee bit more to go to get true WOT. The throttle cable itself has enough travel, it's just the ratio between the gas pedal travel and the carb throttle lever travel.

As I see it, my only option is to modify (bend) the linkage on the gas pedal to get more travel. But this doesn't seem right that I have to do this and I've not found anyone else with this problem. It seems it should be adjustable all in the carb/throttle linkage. It wouldn't be easy to bend the gas pedal lever just the right amount as I could go too far and then run out of cable before having the pedal to the medal. This will just cause stress on the cable and eventually break it, probably right at the end where the ball attaches to the pedal lever.

So has anyone else had this problem? Is there another factory gas pedal I should try? There's no reason to assume my gas pedal has been replaced with an incorrect version, but I've had weirder things happen. It bolts up right to the floor and looks correct. How does everyone else set the range correctly from idle to WOT? The way I see it, you have to have more travel in your gas pedal and throttle cable than the carb lever has for proper function.

Thanks
 
There is a throttle arm that bolts to a Holley carb to connect it with the Chrysler throttle cable. Do you have it on your carb? It's something that is sold seperate from the carb. Summit's part # is HLY-20-7. I have a catalog from February & the price is $7.88. Might be a bit more now. It changes the mounting point for the cable to better match the leverage ratio of the Chrysler throttle. It also has a hole to bolt on an attachment for the kickdown linkage.
 
Ah sorry, forgot to mention that yes...I do have the 20-7. That helped get it a lot closer than without it of course, but it's still not quite right. Plus it only has one hole in it...is there supposed to be another hole for the kickdown hookup? I was not aware of this. Mine only has three holes in the entire adapter. Two for mounting to the carb lever, and one for the throttle and I assumed everything else.

Unless the carb is not meant to open to a hard stop WOT, then something is not matching up. It just has to go a little bit more. And when I push it manually that last bit, the butterflies open a little more to the vertical position and the pump shooter drips out a few more drops of fuel. Seems to me it should go but I'm out of adjustments up in the carb area. That's what's leading me to the gas pedal side of things but I've not heard of anyone else having to do modify their factory original gas pedal setup.
 
You're right. There is only one hole. Sorry, the last time I used one of those brackets was about 25 years ago & then somebody stole it. I assume you've already tried moving the cable a bit in the throttle cable bracket? Maybe you could try removing some of the carpet insulation under the pedal to give it more travel?
 
Yep...had the same problem with mine. No matter how I adjusted the linkage there was not enough pedal travel for the car to idle right or go full throttle. I fixed mine by pulling the carpet back some and putting some aluminum shims under the bracket that mounts the pedal to the floor pan thus increasing the amount of travel. Once I got the shim thickness right I drilled a hole and put a sheet metal screw through them to hold them in place.....put the carpet back up and you'd never know what was done. I tried the V8 cable and the /6 cable and even the loakr cut to fit would have had the same problem......not enough pedal travel. Here is a pic of my carb throttle bracket....as you can see I have an almost infinte amount of adjustments that can be made.

P8020010.jpg


If I adjusted the cable so the engine would idle clean and at the right RPM then it wouldn't go to full throttle......if I adjusted it so it would go full throttle then it would idle at 1500RPM......(normal is 850) Took me a couple days of head scratching on what I could do to fix the problem.....like I said I swapped throttle cables and everything.....shimming the pedal to get more travel was the only answer.

P8020010.jpg


P8020010.jpg
 
I can get pics of my shims tonight if you want?

Sure, anything would help to see how to fix this. I thought of shims too, but figured it would just effectively shorten the cable, not fix the amount of travel problem. But if it worked for you, then that's great.

Thanks!
 
Ran into same here too. I am getting the holley adapter from Mancini or summit or jegs. It's all about price with me. Retiree Budget. I am sure tha "little extra" prob.' will be the carpet. I've already figured and solved problem with Isosceles style pedal shim's. Being able t do it correctly now is reassuring. Thanks for you're post's being there for when I needed it. I had this thing tuned to 8.81's in the eighth on 60% throttle use. Can't wait for this! Later, DartMan.
 
Bouchillons kit comes with an adapter that will set the ratio of throttle movement to trans movement. I just spent some time this week end setting up my 440.I used their throttle cable adapter. But the adapter on the carb may have a different ratio of movement than the Holley one does. If you go to their web site and look up the cable kit there is also a link for instructions. Yes they do come with the kit but it'll give you an idea of what it takes to install.
 
Sorry to dig up an old thread but I've been having the same issue with my Bouchillon setup. Mines on a 4150 using it their complete throttle bracket and kickodwn on my W2 408.

No matter how much I've adjusted it I can't get it to go WOT. I was so frustrated with it that I bought an ARE Engineering throttle bracket that uses the Lokar kickodwn. Haven't got around to swapping.

Is the consensus still to shim the throttle pedal? Seems like a band aid but if it works. Don't want to go through the hassle of swapping to the ARE setup and still have the same issue.
 
I am using the adapter that comes with the Bouchillon setup. I have the Mopar Holley adapter as well but it is not used with this kit.
IMG_4317_zpsg5ghqc8j.jpg

IMG_4315_zpshi9a0u7d.jpg
 
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I have a problem that seems to be unique in my online searching on the topic. I removed my factory 2bbl intake and Carter BBD carb some time ago and replaced it with a Weiand Stealth and Holley 1850 4bbl setup. (318/904 Scamp) Aside from the typical issues of the auto kickdown and throttle cables (of which I'm already researching Lokar and Bouchillon for and seems fine for the common problems of this conversion) I have a problem with the gas pedal meeting the floor before I get to full wide open throttle on the Holley. I have just a wee bit more to go to get true WOT. The throttle cable itself has enough travel, it's just the ratio between the gas pedal travel and the carb throttle lever travel.

As I see it, my only option is to modify (bend) the linkage on the gas pedal to get more travel. But this doesn't seem right that I have to do this and I've not found anyone else with this problem. It seems it should be adjustable all in the carb/throttle linkage. It wouldn't be easy to bend the gas pedal lever just the right amount as I could go too far and then run out of cable before having the pedal to the medal. This will just cause stress on the cable and eventually break it, probably right at the end where the ball attaches to the pedal lever.

So has anyone else had this problem? Is there another factory gas pedal I should try? There's no reason to assume my gas pedal has been replaced with an incorrect version, but I've had weirder things happen. It bolts up right to the floor and looks correct. How does everyone else set the range correctly from idle to WOT? The way I see it, you have to have more travel in your gas pedal and throttle cable than the carb lever has for proper function.

Thanks

With my set-up, you can use the stock 340 throttle bracket and then use the stock kickdown linkage. You just have to lengthen it 1 1/2 - 2" and it will work...
 
He is a hillbilly riggin job I have done lot's of times. It's virtually free and has always worked issue free.... sorry it's a little fuzzy, but you can get the point. :)

 
I am having this exact issue. Does anyone else have some input? Is shimming the accelerator pedal the most ideal remedy? Thanks.
 
He is a hillbilly riggin job I have done lot's of times. It's virtually free and has always worked issue free.... sorry it's a little fuzzy, but you can get the point. :)


Video? You Tube links work. (Only)
 
I actually watched that video earlier today. The issue has nothing to do with throttle length, bracket placement or linkage. It's a problem with the relationship between pedal and carburetor throttle geometry. Basically, the pedal doesn't pull the cable far enough to achieve WOT. The accelerator pedal will bottom out on floor before the primaries are totally open.
 
I actually watched that video earlier today. The issue has nothing to do with throttle length, bracket placement or linkage. It's a problem with the relationship between pedal and carburetor throttle geometry. Basically, the pedal doesn't pull the cable far enough to achieve WOT. The accelerator pedal will bottom out on floor before the primaries are totally open.
First, welcome to the site !!!!! 2nd, you may need to find a spot to hook the cable a little closer to the shaft for more action. Be sure 90% of your slack is out of the cable between the carb and cable bracket.
 
I don't think the 2 bbl throttle cable is the same as the 4 bbl cable. Part of your problem. They at least have different part numbers.
 
First, welcome to the site !!!!! 2nd, you may need to find a spot to hook the cable a little closer to the shaft for more action. Be sure 90% of your slack is out of the cable between the carb and cable bracket.


You're on the right track and understand my problem. The accelerator pedal isnt providing enough action to open the primaries completely. Looks like altering pedal geometry is probably the easiest.
 
Mark_Mopar, did you get
You're on the right track and understand my problem. The accelerator pedal isnt providing enough action to open the primaries completely. Looks like altering pedal geometry is probably the easiest.
Did you get this resolved? I was having the same problem and fixed it by moving the attachment point closer to the shaft, as 318will run pointed out. I am using a Lokar adjustable throttle cable with the push-on attachment to a ball stud. I used the Holley assortment kit of ball studs (PN 20-2) to find a stud to attach to a hole closer to the shaft of the throttle linkage. That worked for me. I have a 4-speed so I don't have to deal with an automatic transmission kickdown.

If you got it figured out, please take a minute to let us know.
 
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