70 duster getting some boost..

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rgreule

rgreule

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ok well here it goes..

the car started out as a 70 /6 904 duster.. was bone stock when i got it about 4 years ago.. i didnt start working on it till about 8 months ago..

how it was when i got it..
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and a little rust was found..
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it must of had a leaky windshield or something cuz the only rust in the whole car was the floor..

used floor board.
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back from blasting.. in/out/under all blasted clean.. all under coat, all paint, and all sound deadener is now gone..

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working on the mini tub

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325/50/15 nitto drag radials..

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look good under the car

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rounding up some parts..

15 gallon cell.
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areomotive a1000
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disc brake parts.. wilwood 4 piston calipers and custom made brackets to adapt them to factpry spindles

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ford 9 inch housing

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getting a back brace

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have a war case that im probably going to get rid of and get a aluminum center section.. a strange pro light 35 spline spool, 35 spline TDS axles..
 
motor stuff...

the engine plans consist of.

-71 340 block with milodon splayed 4 bolt caps, with a 1 1/2 of hardblock
-stock forged crank
-eagle h beam rods
-ross 8.5.1 pistons
-a set of w5 baton ported heads
-w5 m1 single plane intake
-the cam will be adv. 298.. 264/264 @ .50 .555/.555 lift on a 112

msd btm

- the trans will mort likley be a 727, i wanted to go with a nash 5 speed but i think with the turbo a 727 will be best..

i will be making my own turbo manifolds, colectors and exhaust.

turbo is a borg warner s475 with a 1.10 exhaust hausing in a t6

tial 60mm wastegate and tial 50mm bov.


csu 750 carb with a extreame velocity hat

a few pictures of aquired engine parts

w5 heads
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turbo next to my brothers little t3 .50 trim
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building a collector
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4-1 to 2.5 v band
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yeah, i will be having alot of updates in the near future.. it will be getting a 10 pt moly cage, the floor re intalled, the mini tub, subframe connectors, and trunk and fuel cell mounts all done in the next month since the car will be moved to place i can weld at..
 
From experience I would avoid the 4 bolt caps. It actually weakens the block. I have removed cranks with the caps and webbing attached still. Just my .02 cents. Can't wait to see the outcome of this build.
 
thats good to know.. i am about to take the block in to have that done.. funny you posted im in edmonton this week for work.. lol
 
im down for a beer.. went and checked out the mall today.. but yeah i know an r3 block would be the best thing but its a little out of the funds.. im picking the 340 with the balanced rotating assembly up from a good friend.. he was planning on using it with a 6-71 but never did..
 
wow looks like you started with about the same i did . cars looking good alot of work to get done in a month will be looking forward to seeing the tubs and cage going in
 
Mad Dart I have seen first hand stock blocks let go at 575 to 600 hp. The problem was the 4 bolt caps that were installed. I have no pics but worked at a reputable engine shop for 8 years and have seen the outer bolts would crack and brake the main webbing around the crank. I never seen any cap walk on a sbd but have seen it in sbc. But we did build a magnum block as a spare, left the stock caps on, arp studs. It made 585hp on the dyno and ended up getting use for a full season. When we tore it down for a freshening at the end of the season it was in perfect condition, very little cyl wear and the mains were exactly what they measured when the block went together and bearings looked new when disassembled. These engines were in late model circle track cars that lived at 7200 rpm. And the power was made with 2 brl carb.
 
Black 69 Dart said:
Mad Dart I have seen first hand stock blocks let go at 575 to 600 hp. The problem was the 4 bolt caps that were installed. I have no pics but worked at a reputable engine shop for 8 years and have seen the outer bolts would crack and brake the main webbing around the crank. I never seen any cap walk on a sbd but have seen it in sbc. But we did build a magnum block as a spare, left the stock caps on, arp studs. It made 585hp on the dyno and ended up getting use for a full season. When we tore it down for a freshening at the end of the season it was in perfect condition, very little cyl wear and the mains were exactly what they measured when the block went together and bearings looked new when disassembled. These engines were in late model circle track cars that lived at 7200 rpm. And the power was made with 2 brl carb.
Click to expand...

I don't disagree with you at all.
The post was for how much can a stock block take. The stock block will take more abuse with just the factory cap set up than with 4 bolt aftermarket caps from what I have researched. Usually when the stock block does fail it is because of something else that failed before it and then it ends up taking out the block. The stock block will take some serious abuse in NA form. It will also take a heck of alot more abuse than that in boosted format. When I say abuse in boosted format, I mean make a heck of a lot more power and still live.
 
update::

floor is in and welded.. lower firewall rust is all fixed amd mock up for manifolds is under way.

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Looks nice and good work on the floor install.

I'd stay away from the 4 bolt splayed caps deal as well. ARP studs and line hone it and go. If you really wanted to use those caps, we've cut the 4 bolt potion off and fitted them as two bolt caps on block.
 
i bought the floor from you cracked back.. lol didnt turno out to bad.. yeah i will probably go away from the 4 bolt caps the motor is ready to assemble if i dont use them.
 
-----update---

i have one manifold tacked together and starting on the next.. is turning out pretty nice. will keep updates coming

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MAN I wish I could do and had the energy to do that stuff!!
 
^ where in idaho are you located???

this is my first time ever building manifolds so its been a learning process.. the passenger side is goining to be alot harder to build than the drivers but ill just chip away at it and see how it goes. thanks for the kind words so far.
 
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