I wanted power windows for my 66 dart but I"m cheap!

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66Dvert

Working on my custom car parts again!
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I wasn't going to buy those Ebay chearpies either (though I do like the wiring setup) soooo as I was yard hopping I saw a 91 or 2 ram truck that had the door off and peeking out was a power window motor that looked like it'd fit my gears on my regulator, after getting 2 motors out and looking at then I decided that yup that'll do grabbed a switch (forgot that I needed a 4 window switch if I was going to power ALL the windows DUH!) to wire up and check things out. cost about 14 bucks total. no to shabby I thought hmmmm how to mount it. AHHH I got it I'll drill out the crank handle mechanism and put the motor through on the back side(note to self after band aiding fingers,REMOVE SPRING FIRST). Ohhh nice clean door panel now I thought. Well it's almost right. I had to grind out the back area to let the gear from the power mindow come through and I had to mount a plate with holes so I could bolt it to my stock regulator. IT worked , it's ugly though.
here's the pic

stock regulator with the cranking mechanism cut out
View attachment DSCF3538.jpg
Ground out the alignment hole and some of the back metal to make a hole big enough to mount the power motor (yeah I welded up the split in the regulator)
View attachment DSCF3540.jpg
made a flat plate and drilled the mounting hole in it
View attachment DSCF3542.jpg
made sure I made a left and a right with the motors in to clear the vent frame and door handle mech
View attachment DSCF3545.jpg

welded the plate to the regulator and away we go! (hmm I did weld the split really!)

View attachment DSCF3541.jpg


here's the youtube video of it working (not in the car yet)
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apZVBtysnDw&feature=youtu.be"]power window conversion for 66 dart - YouTube[/ame]

now to search out a 4 window switch and figure out how to wire it right!
 
I hear ya!

You will want the glass to slide up and down very easily so the motor wont have to work so hard. When we install a new regulator we spray the door channels with 3m spray oil. Those window channels dry out over time and will not let the glass roll up and down easily. Even late model cars do it.
 
I wasn't going to buy those Ebay chearpies either (though I do like the wiring setup) soooo as I was yard hopping I saw a 91 or 2 ram truck that had the door off and peeking out was a power window motor that looked like it'd fit my gears on my regulator, after getting 2 motors out and looking at then I decided that yup that'll do grabbed a switch (forgot that I needed a 4 window switch if I was going to power ALL the windows DUH!) to wire up and check things out. cost about 14 bucks total. no to shabby I thought hmmmm how to mount it. AHHH I got it I'll drill out the crank handle mechanism and put the motor through on the back side(note to self after band aiding fingers,REMOVE SPRING FIRST). Ohhh nice clean door panel now I thought. Well it's almost right. I had to grind out the back area to let the gear from the power mindow come through and I had to mount a plate with holes so I could bolt it to my stock regulator. IT worked , it's ugly though.
here's the pic

stock regulator with the cranking mechanism cut out
View attachment 1714544180
Ground out the alignment hole and some of the back metal to make a hole big enough to mount the power motor (yeah I welded up the split in the regulator)
View attachment 1714544181
made a flat plate and drilled the mounting hole in it
View attachment 1714544182
made sure I made a left and a right with the motors in to clear the vent frame and door handle mech
View attachment 1714544183

welded the plate to the regulator and away we go! (hmm I did weld the split really!)

View attachment 1714544184


here's the youtube video of it working (not in the car yet)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apZVBtysnDw&feature=youtu.be

now to search out a 4 window switch and figure out how to wire it right!

Kewl....

"AHHH I got it I'll drill out the crank handle mechanism and put the motor through on the back side(note to self after band aiding fingers,REMOVE SPRING FIRST)."
.............. Painful but Priceless.
 
Kewl....

"AHHH I got it I'll drill out the crank handle mechanism and put the motor through on the back side(note to self after band aiding fingers,REMOVE SPRING FIRST)."
.............. Painful but Priceless.

umm the bad part is I did it TWICE. man it was painful I remembered to remove the spring Just as I pried the crank handle off, thinking oh S@#$#@
got the other hand this time. I'm looking at my back regulators and I've already got the spring OFF. NOT happening this time.
 
I hear ya!

You will want the glass to slide up and down very easily so the motor wont have to work so hard. When we install a new regulator we spray the door channels with 3m spray oil. Those window channels dry out over time and will not let the glass roll up and down easily. Even late model cars do it.

Thanks (3m spray oil huh) I've got everything out of the doors and rear section, I'll be lubing the channels up good. White lithium grease on the regulators and slide pins that locate the window to door , I was wondering what to use in the plastic/rubber channels on the front and rear of the glass

anyone got any rear regulators for a 66 dart convertible, I want to setup a power setup on a spare set after I hit the salvage yards again and get some motors and a 4 window switch
 
Great idea, can't wait to see if it fit's in the door....
 
umm the bad part is I did it TWICE. man it was painful I remembered to remove the spring Just as I pried the crank handle off, thinking oh S@#$#@
got the other hand this time. I'm looking at my back regulators and I've already got the spring OFF. NOT happening this time.

Double OUCH!! Note to self failed so it gave you a not so friendly reminder. Note to self worked for the back ones. Good thing because you were already out of hands.
 
Great idea, can't wait to see if it fit's in the door....
they've already been in the doors (so I could get the motor clocked the correct amount and still engage the gears) and it clears the vent frame/window channel along with the handle mechanism. and it works good so far. of course it doesn't have the window in it yet and that might change the whole thing. I'll try and post a video of it when I double check all the alignment stuff. they do have to go in last because of the motor part is a lot lower than standard crank handle.
like 3 inches and I WAS worried that it wouldn't fit.

now I'm thinking hmmmm power door lock on a convertible are pretty much useless but still you can deter an honest person that way, hmmm door handle mechanism on my 66 dart has a lever that I might be able to connect a switch to and use the door lock piece to pop open the door latch without the rod... nope won't work. you have to hold the button in to clear both detents in the door latch dang! guess I'll have to use the door locks in the correct way..............but if... hmmmm
I'll think on it.
 
Double OUCH!! Note to self failed so it gave you a not so friendly reminder. Note to self worked for the back ones. Good thing because you were already out of hands.

HAH I was going to try and get the Wife to hold the next set:glasses7: But I decided I wanted to live a little longer
 
Good info here! Yep, keep us posted with updates when you get the glass and weatherstrips in. I often wondered whether this would work or not. A friend did the same thing to a 38 Dodge sedan he was street rodding. Apparently Ma Mopar has used the same gear teeth ratio for that many years cause it worked in the old sedan. Thanks for the info. tmm
 
Its so good when folks figure out how to "git er done" without spending a bundle.
Just curious, what stops the motor stop at the end of travel?
 
Its so good when folks figure out how to "git er done" without spending a bundle.
Just curious, what stops the motor stop at the end of travel?
I wondered that too but remembered that I could only roll it up so far and it seemed to lock in the down position too!. so I looked at the gear (da biggie)
it has a stop built in for down, actually it just doesn't have any more teeth ground in so the gear can't move down any more. and there is an adjustment stop on the regulator itself(little round slug) that stops it on the top stroke. I guess the top adjustment is for people who (like me) crank it up hard to seal it up and bend things.

top stop location
View attachment top stop.jpg
bottom gear stop (I'm thinking of adding another positive stop just like the top. but I'm not sure there's room
View attachment bottom stop.jpg
 
There is a company called speedway that specializes in custom/hot rods and they have a neat little item that allows you to retain your crank handle and it operates the electric switch. The website currently lists it as discontinued, but it is an idea and maybe there are some floating around on the web.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Garage-Sale-Universal-Power-Window-Switch,46308.html



I wanted to get rid of the handle that's why I did.t go with those, plus I'd have had to drill out the center to use the stock handle. BUT I am thinking of using the stock door handles by using mopar door lock solenoids to pop open the door if I can figure out how to keep it engaged to get past the safety lock on the latch. I can get it to pop the first part but it wants to return to home position and catches on the safety.. still thinking on that
 
ok here's a video of it working and it ain't to bad! I' like it8-)


[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=srPL8jRKMb0&feature=youtu.be"]power window in 66 dart test.AVI - YouTube[/ame]

I do still have to adjust the top stop and might have to make the stop a bit sturdier. that motor moves that window FAST and I have not even greased it at all!
 
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