Early A-Body Steering Wheel Removal and Installation Step-by-Step with Pictures

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66340SEDAN

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Early A-Body Steering Wheel Removal and Installation Step-by-Step with Pictures

I am creating this thread for people who need help when it comes to removing/installing their early a-body 61-66 standard 2-spoke steering wheel. Hope this can help some people out if they have never done this before.

Step #1: Disconnect the battery....Then find the slot behind the plastic horn cover, take a flat screwdriver and slowly twist the end to pry the cover loose. Do this very slowly and carefully, if you pry too hard you can damage the cap or the plastic spacer. There is a rubber O ring on the center piece that holds it to the spacer. This can be tricky but patience is key. After the cap is off you may see a round black foam rubber pad, remove this as well. Also, on the plastic cap, there is a thin metal ring that goes on the edge, this is there to prevent the screwdriver from scratching or cracking during removal.

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Step #2: Take a phillips screwdriver and remove the 3 screws that hold the horn button and spacer on, also pull the horn contact wire off. Don't lose the special plastic spacers for the screws!

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Step#3: Take a 1/2" drive ratchet and extension (long one works best) use a 3/4 socket to loosen the center nut. You will have to hold the steering wheel tight as you turn the nut loose.

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Step #4: You will need a steering wheel puller for this step. Assemble the puller, then take the right size bolts in the kit and use the 2 bolts in the threaded holes in the steering wheel, make sure to thread them in far enough and evenly. When it's on the wheel tight, turn the center part with a wrench and the wheel should start to pull off. Remember to hang onto the wheel so it doesn't fall :D

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Step #5: Installation, take the wheel and put a little lube in the steering wheel splines (I used a dab of WD-40) and then line up the splines on the steering shaft, it can only go on one way! After it goes on take and install the washer and nut, then get your ratchet and tighten it back up tight, you will have to hold the steering wheel from turning again for this.

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Step #6: Install the horn switch and spacer, along with the horn contact wire. The big plastic spacer can only go on one way. Don't over-tighten the screws or you will crack the little spacers on them too.

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Step #7: Next install the plastic cover, take a little dish soap and rub some soap on the rubber O ring, this will help it go on nice. Be sure to center the logo first, then gently push it on with your hand or palm...don't pound it on, it will break....be gentle :D

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Step #8: Burnout time!

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Here are a few basic tools I used. If you don't have a puller most auto parts stores sell them.


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Very good write up, but missed first step of disconnect battery. My vote to be made sticky.
 
Very good write up, but missed first step of disconnect battery. My vote to be made sticky.

Yup, I did LOL, but mine was already disconnected...I will edit it, thanks for the kind words!
 
Congratulations Keith :cheers:
You took the time to walk members thru this and with pictures :cheers:
Pictures are the big thing here, it takes time. I applaud your how to thread. It don't get much better than this.

I need to remove mine and have it reconditioned :thumblef: and I have an old
grant to take it's place while it is getting repairs.

I think this would be a good time to do any repairs to your turn signals if they need it.


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Great Great write up Keith !
I guess I missed it. Did you recondition your wheel ?

I have been trying to put this wheel together for a while. Finding this wheel in decent condition is turning out to be pretty tough. So if anyone out there has one let me know. I also need the horn switch.

Anyways great wheel Keith, looks killer.

PS: Isn't there a thinner rubber pad that goes in there somewhere?
 
Great Great write up Keith !
I guess I missed it. Did you recondition your wheel ?

I have been trying to put this wheel together for a while. Finding this wheel in decent condition is turning out to be pretty tough. So if anyone out there has one let me know. I also need the horn switch.

Anyways great wheel Keith, looks killer.

Yes, actually my dad did it for me as a birthday gift, I had the paint left over from when I painted my heater/radio delete plates and lock knobs. My original wheel wasn't bad on the outer rim, but pretty busted up at the base under the horn button (whole big pieces are actually loose). Mikes steering wheel is the same color as mine so he will be sending his to my dad (fabo member FISHYPETE) so it can be restored too. This was the first early-a wheel dad has done and it turned out great! :glasses7:

The last 3 pics are of my old wheel, the back parts are actually loose from the wheel, maybe it can be saved yet, see what dad can do. The wheel that was restored was one I got from a member here, it didn't have many cracks so it was a good core to start with.

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PS: Isn't there a thinner rubber pad that goes in there somewhere?

Yup, there is and thanks for the reminder, I didn't have one in mine but also didn't install it either, I think its there to keep the horn contact wire from rubbing the back side of the center cap.

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Cool....Thanks again for the great write up. Definately took all the mystery out.
And props to your Dad. He does great work !
 
One question, shouldn't you have used shrink tubing or tape to cover the cracks in the horn wire? Looks like it could short. Other than that, looks good. Didn't realize you could get a 2 spoke wheel without the quarter horn ring.
 
One question, shouldn't you have used shrink tubing or tape to cover the cracks in the horn wire? Looks like it could short. Other than that, looks good. Didn't realize you could get a 2 spoke wheel without the quarter horn ring.

Thanks for the reminder, it was cracked on that wheel and I didn't switch them around, I will pull the cap off and wrap it up good to be sure.
 
Great write up & pictures. Restored wheel looks awesome. Thanks Keith. Getting ready to do turn signal cancel cam replacement in my valiant & will try to follow suit with write up & pics.

Oldschoolcuda
 
Great write up & pictures. Restored wheel looks awesome. Thanks Keith. Getting ready to do turn signal cancel cam replacement in my valiant & will try to follow suit with write up & pics.

Oldschoolcuda

Same here, they work 1/3 of the time so I will take care of that while I am there and pull my wheel this strongend :cheers: 58 and sunny Saturday :cheers:.
 
Great writeup. Has anybody repaired the cracks in the plastic? My 65 wheel has a chunk that fell out around the center part. It fits back tightly, so if I epoxy it back there will only be a thin crack to fill. I was thinking of trying "plastic epoxy". Any suggestion? I also have fiberglass epoxy. I wonder what will stick well.
 
Excellent post!!! Been there and done it before on my early a body cuda my first on a 66 cuda! When redoing it for street class racing all was done and sterring wheel was not straight after realighnment of front end so did just what you did to remove it and realighn it! Way to go looks great and excellent post!

65Cudalover!
 
sterring wheel was not straight after realighnment of front end so did just what you did to remove it and realighn it!65Cudalover!
I think the steering wheel only fits at one clocking since there is a "wide groove" you must match. It seems I see it in the photos above. However, on the bottom end where the coupler attaches to the steering gear, I looked and looked for a locating groove and found none on either end in my 65 Dart. I know my 65 Newport and 69 Dart had one. Either 65 Darts were different or somebody jammed it on wrong and swaged a new groove. My point is that, you shouldn't booger with the steering wheel or coupler to get the steering wheel centered. You should adjust the tie rod couplers to center it. That is a standard part of alignment. You could mess up the toe-in (bad!) if you try yourself and don't know exactly how to do it.
 
I wish someone will take this farther and do a column rebuild with the steering shaft bearing and all. There are 2 screws that will defy most anyone not familiar with the column design.
 
I'm restoring mine right now. My steering wheel had over 40 cracks and the whole hub was gone. I used a lot of POR-15 (available at Amazon) some of my sculpting skills, files, Dremel and lot of patience with sanding. I had to find a Dart to measure the correct dimensions.

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