Gear Vendors overdrive

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1970Duster said:
200R4 all the way if you don't wanna cut the tunnel. That said if you don't mind cutting the tunnel, look at the 6L90 tranny. 6 Speed auto with great ratios so you can rear 410 no problem.
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Are the 6L90s a viable swap yet? I heard the the electronics were still a problem. I've seen a few of the TCI 6Xs in action. Not bad, but a bit pricey. (Seen a few failures, too.)

I've installed a few GVs and they are nice. You definitely know when they engage. I do feel they are a bit application specific depending on your needs. My big concern which nobody seems to address directly is if you have a big hp engine, don't you usually use a high stall converter? So, if you have a tail OD that puts your engine speed significantly below the stall of the converter, won't that build heat in the trans? Sure, you can add a bigger trans cooler, but it doesn't address the slippage.

For the money, I would go with a modern OD auto with a lock up converter. My opinion is that it would give better benefits.

I do have a friend that abuses the heck out of his GV and it has not complained at all. (It's mounted to the back of a 4L80e).
 
1970Duster said:
200R4 all the way if you don't wanna cut the tunnel. That said if you don't mind cutting the tunnel, look at the 6L90 tranny. 6 Speed auto with great ratios so you can rear 410 no problem.
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X2. I run 4.10 gears and 26.7" tires. 2800 rpm at 80 mph. I can actually drive on the highway now. I put almost 8000 miles on my car last year because I could finally drive it anywhere. I recommend a 200R4 to everyone.

View attachment Highway RPM 1.jpg
View attachment Highway RPM.jpg
 
HemiDenny said:
FYI....it is NOT a soft shift....you now when it hits
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yes you do, unless depending on the tc some people have and didn't use a good one or have it built right then its a different story and why the other poster may have issues at cruise speeds

zhandfull said:
I will say up in Vegas last month I did experiment with splitting gears on the 1/4 mile with no real improvement in ET or MPH.
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I had a 8 hundredths difference with a RR modified 440 6pk, i only split 2nd
It worked great in the GT also and p/u and also made the road course use better
.
 
Mopar to ya said:
X2. I run 4.10 gears and 26.7" tires. 2800 rpm at 80 mph. I can actually drive on the highway now. I put almost 8000 miles on my car last year because I could finally drive it anywhere. I recommend a 200R4 to everyone.

View attachment 1714609486
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What's the od ratio of the 200r? .69

GV looks like you would be around 74 mph at 3000rpm.

With .69 ratio at 3000rpm it looks like you'll be about 83 mph. That's a huge difference. GV should at least offer the .69 option. I think they would sell the hell out of it. I know the GV ratio turns quit a few people off. Especially for the money these days.
 
Is the 200r4 an electronic transmission? How much should I expect to pay for one?
 
For some applications, like our cars the GV can be a good alternative.

For others, the GV is a huge waste of money. Depends on what you want to do with the unit and whether it's recommended and will hold up.

.08 for $3000... no thanks!
 
Revhendo said:
My big concern which nobody seems to address directly is if you have a big hp engine, don't you usually use a high stall converter? So, if you have a tail OD that puts your engine speed significantly below the stall of the converter, won't that build heat in the trans? Sure, you can add a bigger trans cooler, but it doesn't address the slippage.

For the money, I would go with a modern OD auto with a lock up converter. My opinion is that it would give better benefits.
Click to expand...

Depends who you talk to....if it is a GV faithful it is not a problem......you speak wit a trans guy well......

I spoke with Lem at Ultimate Convertor about this very thing when I was thinking about a big cube HEMI with EFI....Len was working with a fellow that had a similar deal. Len told me that the issue they were having was when the t/c was loose enough to launch correctly at the track it was a bit to loose for driving the car on the street and would experience a lot of heat issues as well as some slippage issues....and when it was tight enough to not have the bad manners on the street it was to tight for the track.
This is the very reason why my trans guy, who used to sell GV units a while back steered me away from a GV and into a more modern electronic unit.
As difficult as this is to accept for some folks, there is more than one way to skin a cat. And HIS was is not always the most suitable for all of us.....
 
Can a gear vendor unit be used with the early (pre66) cable style torqueflites? I am wondering if it would interfere with the park lock mechanism.
 
FJ5 said:
Is the 200r4 an electronic transmission? How much should I expect to pay for one?
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The tranny is all hyd (even going into o/d) it does have a two wire hook up to lock up the converter though (if you want to use it a simple push button will work just fine).
 
Revhendo said:
Are the 6L90s a viable swap yet? I heard the the electronics were still a problem. I've seen a few of the TCI 6Xs in action. Not bad, but a bit pricey. (Seen a few failures, too.)

I've installed a few GVs and they are nice. You definitely know when they engage. I do feel they are a bit application specific depending on your needs. My big concern which nobody seems to address directly is if you have a big hp engine, don't you usually use a high stall converter? So, if you have a tail OD that puts your engine speed significantly below the stall of the converter, won't that build heat in the trans? Sure, you can add a bigger trans cooler, but it doesn't address the slippage.

For the money, I would go with a modern OD auto with a lock up converter. My opinion is that it would give better benefits.

I do have a friend that abuses the heck out of his GV and it has not complained at all. (It's mounted to the back of a 4L80e).
Click to expand...
From the stuff I've heard so far not to much anymore. I did talk with a guy about his 6L tranny in his 67 impala fastback and how he blew it up in the first week of him using it. Turns out he had the wrong tranny. He thought he bought a 6L90 but upon removal (calling local dealer with the numbers on it) he had a 6L80. Because 6L90 would handle his motors output in without mods, he went for that. He ended up just having the 6L80 rebuild to handle the power and said it was the best upgrade he's ever done to the car, that and 4 wheel disc brakes over the 4 wheel drums it use to have.
 
1970Duster said:
The tranny is all hyd (even going into o/d) it does have a two wire hook up to lock up the converter though (if you want to use it a simple push button will work just fine).
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This will also work for pretty much all of the electronic transmissions as well. They will be a manual valve body but od & t/c lock up can be controlled with a simple toggle switch. Friend used to build 9 (?) speed a4ld's for the off road racers he worked with and they were controlled this way. You were able to split forward gears with the o/d unit and use the t/c clutch at will. The gear splitting worked well for these guys because the trucks were heavy & underpowered. They required valve bodies built specifically for my buddy, once they were cooked the racers got c4's and not one of them complained about the lack of gear choice.....
 
The transmission is all hydraulic as has been stated. There is no two wire hook up as 1970duster says, though. It is all non electric. I had to run new cooler lines and I went with an electric speedo sensor so I had to run a wire. It went in with a few minor hiccups and a homemade cross member. I ordered mine from Art Carr and bought everything I needed from him. He is not the only supplier and you can even get a local guy to build you one if you wanted. I went the easy route and bought the tranny, adapter plate, tv cable and bracket at converter all from Art. Gear ratio is 1st-2.74, 2nd-1.57, 3rd-1.00, OD-0.67, and reverse 2.07. All the trials and tribulations were documented in this thread. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=174333
 
Revhendo said:
My big concern which nobody seems to address directly is if you have a big hp engine, don't you usually use a high stall converter? So,
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If you buy a junk $300 TC yes, i do not have any issues with my TC, 3500 but it's not loose at all and was built specifically.
This is why i only recommend specific tc builders.
If you have a issue like someone else said about not being able to hit the stall, then you don't have the power or you do not have the brakes to hold it which is usually the problem all the time that you don't have the brakes.
.
 
Supershafts said:
How do you know what they are going to do, ok do the others hold 900hp ?
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like stated many times here... it depends on application whether or not its worth the money to the buyer. if your only putting 400-500 hp who cares if it will hold 900-1600 hp?

for someone like me who doesn't have any desire to put out more then 400-500 hp and am more interested in street cruising a trans with a better first gear and better OD ratio is a better choice for me. if the GV was only $1500 NEW then maybe i would compromise and go with a shittier first gear and OD ratios.. but for the money i'd rather go with the better ratios that suit my needs better...

again it all depends on the application. not sure whats so difficult to understand about that...
 
My big concern which nobody seems to address directly is if you have a big hp engine, don't you usually use a high stall converter? So, if you have a tail OD that puts your engine speed significantly below the stall of the converter, won't that build heat in the trans? Sure, you can add a bigger trans cooler, but it doesn't address the slippage.
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there are compromises everywhere when doing this stuff. a friend had dynamic do a converter for his 500 inch powered challenger. he is running a 3.55 gear and a GV unit. they built a 9.5" converter that was on the tighter side. basically allowed the tq of the motor to determine the stall of the converter...

gotta do the homework before bolting stuff together.. all about getting the right parts for your combo and intended use..
 
abodyjoe said:
like stated many times here... it depends on application whether or not its worth the money to the buyer. if your only putting 400-500 hp who cares if it will hold 900-1600 hp?

for someone like me who doesn't have any desire to put out more then 400-500 hp and am more interested in street cruising a trans with a better first gear and better OD ratio is a better choice for me. if the GV was only $1500 NEW then maybe i would compromise and go with a shittier first gear and OD ratios.. but for the money i'd rather go with the better ratios that suit my needs better...

again it all depends on the application. not sure whats so difficult to understand about that...
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Yes, the arrogant one is back in full form! Who gives a crap about how much HP it can handle if it can't do what you intend to use it for or fit your app or desire (not enough OD ratio). It certainly can't handle some things and GV even says so! LIKE>>>>>>

No Double OD in towing applications with manual trans pickups. Most guys are interested in fuel economy when wanting to run a GV. Not spending 3K so they can drive with the trans in 4th gear and GV it, maybe if you are towing the top end of the weight range. 6-7K is nothing on most of the 3/4ton+ diesel PU's = WASTE OF MONEY!

3K for a .08 improvement on anything slower than a 8.50ish car is a big waste of money as well IMO.
 
crackedback said:
3K for a .08 improvement on anything slower than a 8.50ish car is a big waste of money as well IMO.
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Well it wasn't 3k and 8hdt for a improvement no one was looking for is called FREE...
That's called an added benefit the other options surely can't give you, and then there is also the test of splitting 1st also, could make another drop.. again that's free, but something having just an od can never do.
It also doesn't need a adapter or close to 8" longer shaft.
For a 400hp dd it wouldn't matter what you used, but having more choices is always better than 1

.
 
Supershafts said:
Can others handle 1600 hp ?
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I know of two Grand Nationals that run on 200R4's and they are well over 1200 hp. GearVendors may take it, I don't know. The majority of us here have 500 or less, so it is a moot point to the average street guy. My 200R4 is built for 750 hp and I put out just over 500.
 
Supershafts said:
If you buy a junk $300 TC yes, i do not have any issues with my TC, 3500 but it's not loose at all and was built specifically.
This is why i only recommend specific tc builders.
If you have a issue like someone else said about not being able to hit the stall, then you don't have the power or you do not have the brakes to hold it which is usually the problem all the time that you don't have the brakes.
.
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This is what I mean about getting answers that don't directly address my question.
Plus I love being taken out of context......

So, simplifying......
You drive at 70mph and your engine is running at 3000 rpm. Your converter stall (the theoretical point where pump and turbine speed are the same?) is 2500 rpm. Things are happy, right?

You add an overdrive that drops your rpm below the 2500 rpm, then isn't your converter "slipping" which in turn creates HEAT?

Isn't this why modern AODs have lock up converters?
 
Supershafts said:
Well it wasn't 3k and 8hdt for a improvement no one was looking for is called FREE...
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For 3K, I can add nitrous and go faster and still have plenty of gas money.

Supershafts said:
That's called an added benefit the other options surely can't give you, and then there is also the test of splitting 1st also, could make another drop.. again that's free, but something having just an od can never do.
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But doesn't the better first gear ratio of most AODs counter this "splitting"? I could see where first gear splitting might be good in my Jeep if I was pulling something out of the mud. Oh, I can't install a GV on my Jeep and use it in 4 wheel drive.......


Supershafts said:
It also doesn't need a adapter or close to 8" longer shaft.
For a 400hp dd it wouldn't matter what you used, but having more choices is always better than 1
.
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Isn't the base GV unit the same and it just uses different adapters for different applications? Also, don't you have to also have to shorten your drive shaft because of the extra length? Doesn't it also alter your joint angles?

As for more than one choice, do I need to list them?
 
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