I got to checking for a solution to the fuel drain back problem. I found this on the internet. It came from the UK. it is a one way valve. I bought the 3/8" one to put in the fuel line inlet just before the carb. I will let you know if it works.
bought this to fix fuel drain back problem
- Thread starter trudysduster
- Start date
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Please do! My Ramcharger 318 sets for about 4 days and I pop the hood and drip a few drops in the carb to keep from using up my starter and battery :glasses7:
I hope it does the job and will not restrict gas supply, cool piece you found :cheers:
I hope it does the job and will not restrict gas supply, cool piece you found :cheers:
subscribed!
I hope not :toothy9:
Hay trudysduster :sign7: what kind of engine is this going on ?
If it's a small block and close to stock I hope it does work :cheers: heck I hope it works out for him..
I wounder if he is out there putting it on now :glasses7:
going on a 440 Memike
well, I don't know about the flow. I blew through it one way and it was wide open. I blew the opposite way and it is blocked. I will let you know. You know as much as I do about it. But had to start somewhere.
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
I think as long as you can push 5-6 psi of fuel pressure through it , it should work
dano
Evil Handy Man
It's a check valve. Fuel Volume would be my concern. The biggest issue I have with vehicles with carbs that sit is evaporation.
will know shortly.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Pressure is secondary, as GPM is the important one.
You can get 150 lbs through a needle sized line, but it isn't going to supply the volume needed.
I'm sure you know that already though.
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
you know what I meant LOL. its a 3/8 hole and im sure it doesn't squeeze down to a 1/32 inch hole LOLPressure is secondary, as GPM is the important one.
You can get 150 lbs through a needle sized line, but it isn't going to supply the volume needed.
I'm sure you know that already though.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I wish you luck, but I'd bet this won't help. I know I've said this before, but the three biggest things that helped vapor lock/ hot starts and so on for the 67 was
A rear mount, electric pump. I got a good deal on a Holley Red locally, so that's what I used
Installed a carb heat isolator. Believe it or not, our local O'Reallys had them
Built a vapor return system with Wix 33040/ 41 filter which has a built in orifice
A rear mount, electric pump. I got a good deal on a Holley Red locally, so that's what I used
Installed a carb heat isolator. Believe it or not, our local O'Reallys had them
Built a vapor return system with Wix 33040/ 41 filter which has a built in orifice
FJ5
Well-Known Member
Flow is related to the 4th power of the radius. If the radius is decreased by half, flow is now 1/16 of the original volume.
67 ,seen the return line article, Mopar Action years ago. It works,slick.
mopar head
Well-Known Member
I`ve wondered about check valves myself, but never tried.
My only experience with these were on RC aircraft engines, whole different animal though.
I remember taking it off, but for why I cant remember:banghead:
I think for priming, fuel wanted to keep flowing and when shutting off, it would spit a bunch of fuel out.
May not affect a car carb at all. Leave your breather off when testing to see.
Anxious to hear how it goes.
My only experience with these were on RC aircraft engines, whole different animal though.
I remember taking it off, but for why I cant remember:banghead:
I think for priming, fuel wanted to keep flowing and when shutting off, it would spit a bunch of fuel out.
May not affect a car carb at all. Leave your breather off when testing to see.
Anxious to hear how it goes.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
You talking about the one using a fuel regulator? I'd forgotten about that
well, I put it on, ran the car. let it sit for awhile. 2 pumps and she fired right up. will update in a week as to let it sit for a longer period of time.
tekslk
Well-Known Member
Try ethnol remover the blue stuff it worksmiracles especially in the summer heat.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
not a fuel drain back problem..it is lousy gas that evaporates ...and a lousy eddy/carter design carb...that has the accelerator pump well higher then the bottom of the fuel bowl...
my holley 2300 2 barrel which is half of a 4 barrel...the motorhome has not run since april 20, ...fired right up with a pump of the gas....holley has acelerator pump inlet on bottom of bowl...my eddy 1406 on my duster....two days and no pump action....
my holley 2300 2 barrel which is half of a 4 barrel...the motorhome has not run since april 20, ...fired right up with a pump of the gas....holley has acelerator pump inlet on bottom of bowl...my eddy 1406 on my duster....two days and no pump action....
805moparkid
Slant and AFX Guy
you need to put the valve before the pump. this will keep the pump primed and will not allow it to drain...
just looked at my old afb.....been collecting dust for years....the one way check valve for the pump is a good 1/2 inch off the bottom of the bowl...plus the volume of gas that the bowl holds once the float is lowered into the bowl seems pretty small...which would make the evaporation problem even worst for these carbs...
plus in my case..the car is in driveway with a slope...with the accelerator pump in the front the gas gravitates away from the pump well...
an electric fuel pump will solve the problem....or as I am going to do for the summer..put my HOLLEY 750 VS carb on it....
plus in my case..the car is in driveway with a slope...with the accelerator pump in the front the gas gravitates away from the pump well...
an electric fuel pump will solve the problem....or as I am going to do for the summer..put my HOLLEY 750 VS carb on it....
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
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