So I'm really stuck between building a 408 stroker or a 365. The machine shop estimated about 2000 to hot tank my block, bore my 360 block .30 over, deck the block, new 9:1 pistons and file fit rings, new frost plugs installed, flex plate, turning stock crank and balancing it. New bearings (mains and cam bearings) basically everything to get the motor running nicely with mostly stock bottom end. But a family member just asked my why I wouldn't go with a 408 stroker, and now I'm having trouble deciding. I've found some kits that are balanced and ready to go for 12-1500 bucks. I know that I still have to have block work done. But if I go with a stroker I will not have to have any balancing or work done on my crank, and because the stroker crank hasn't been turned I have bearings for it already. When it's all said and done how much more would it cost for the stroker kit? Is it worth it? I'm on a fairly tight budget so I don't really want to spend much more than the 2000 ish that Im already expecting to pay.
365 or 408?
- Thread starter DartVadar
- Start date
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SRT_DSTRHOLC
Well-Known Member
Theres a guy on here selling all his 408 stuff. But that and be done. Don't waste money on pre balanced kits, get them done locally.
If around 2K is all you want to spend, stay away from the stroker. IMO, as soon as you bolt a stroker kit in a block, you have just eclipsed what the stock heads can handle. So that means you will never get out of the stroker what you could unless you switch to aftermarket heads. There's you another chunk of money to think about.
68383GTS
Well-Known Member
2K you keep it stock....
You need,240-250 c.f.m@.500-550 ,to make it viable. 9.5-10.5 ,fun. Expect,7500 ,to 10,500 plus.I spent 7400,building my own. A well built 360,...
dustoff440
Well-Known Member
I don't know how you look at it but for me the horsepower gain per dollar for me wouldn't be worth it with the extra $ by just stroking it without aftermarket/modified stock heads. If i had to hazard a GUESS I would say that depending on you other engine pieces you would probably achieve 50-75 hp on the extra cubes alone. Divide that by what you spent.
Being the cheap *** that I am, I went with nitrous, with an MSD retard, so for about 600 bucks, I have safely added 150 hp and 1 1/2 second off my et.
That comes out to about 4 bucks per horsepower.
You might also have rod/block clearance issues that would have to be resolved. Also, I wouldn't go with a new crank set up without an align bore, nor would I put it together without a really good new harmonic balancer. Your stock bottom should be good for 6000 plus rpm all day long.
Being the cheap *** that I am, I went with nitrous, with an MSD retard, so for about 600 bucks, I have safely added 150 hp and 1 1/2 second off my et.
That comes out to about 4 bucks per horsepower.
You might also have rod/block clearance issues that would have to be resolved. Also, I wouldn't go with a new crank set up without an align bore, nor would I put it together without a really good new harmonic balancer. Your stock bottom should be good for 6000 plus rpm all day long.
A local engine builder that builds circle track cars with 360's in them told me with a good balance, a stock 360 cast bottom end he has guys doing 7000+ all night long. The key is a good balance job. Forget the pre balanced kits. Make sure a good shop balances them.
dustoff440
Well-Known Member
Agree, my friend has an NHRA T Stock Automatic race car with a 318 with a cast crank and he spins it to 7500.
Some clear clearancing will likely need to be done. Stock head ain't gonna cut it, and will restrict your build. Think about it. They would restrict a healthy stock stroke small block. In parts alone you'll be about 1000-1200 for rods and crank. Then start working over your heads $600-1000. Cam and lifter? $350. Do you have a good intake and carb? $600. Headers? $300-700. How is your ignition system? The list goes on and on... If you don't plan on upgrading those parts from stock, there isn't much to gain from a stroker build if the rest of the pump isn't upgraded as well. If you have not already upgraded those parts, a healthy 360 will likely benefit more from the bolt on upgrades like intake and exhaust for your money. Then again being bolt ones they can always be upgraded later.
I was thinking there would be clearance issues, and currently the engine that I'm using to build this is only the block and stock rods and crank. I have a set of J heads with 2.02 and 1.6 valves in them, although they are 360 heads they are better than the ones that came off this motor. I already have a cam and lifters, good holly carb and aluminum dual plane intake, an a set of headers. Ignition will most likely be upgraded too. So keeping the stock 360 stroke is probably the best bet? It just seems for the price of a kit in comparison to balancing and turning my stock parts is very similar. But are those skat kits cheap for a reason?
7t1gt
Well-Known Member
Since ur on a small buget I would stick with the stock stroke as every one has said already. by the time it's said and done u will be in the bottom end 2500 easy and that's on the cheap end and this is the average ball park. With a healthy 360 u can dip in to the 12's easily depending on the rest of ur drive train if u plan on racing it. best wish's
:burnout:
:burnout:
autoxcuda
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So will his stock 360 heads he has now support 12's?
Yes they can. While it would be easier to run time with better flowing heads that may also allow the use of a smaller cam to run the time, they are capable to run into the 12's as cast with the stock valves.
Been there done that. It just takes more cam and gear to run a certain E.T. With stock heads vs. a ported set no matter what the E.T. is.
hemi446
Well-Known Member
I agree with the majority keep the stock 360 bore & stroke it will last longer and cost a lot less. But if you came across a good deal down the road you can always built a bigger engine next time. I built a 340 with a stroker crank that i got a very very good deal on and with the custom Ross pistons Rods, Balancing, custom ground cam, Edelbrock heads with custom push rods, roller rockers and 6 pack intake & carbs, Dougs headers, recurved distributor and two hours dyno time I spend a little over 13000.00 plus all my labor for all the machine work and assembly the only out side labor cost was the balancing and the dyno time. but I did get 585 hp 630 ft lbs torque in a pump gas engine
perfacar
Well-Known Member
hi, I notice that any mention of a stock head brings boo's. they won't flow enough to go fast and etc. in the world of stock eliminator, 340 with X heads go 10.70's @ 120mph. so wiil a 340 with the 587 head. it comes down to total combination. port velocity is what makes these heads flow good.
And how much do you pay for a competitive stock eliminator valve job or to have the heads done for Stock?
Probably more then his engine budget for the engine...LOL
Well I guess I should have specified, im willing to spend anywhere from 2000-2500 on the bottom end, crank, rods and pistons, rings bearings ect. I already have my top end all paid for and ready to go, so I'm not including that in the price. But why am I finding that a rebuild with the stock crank (turning and balancing) and new pistons is quite similar in price to a stroker kit? I've found some scat kits for just over a grand, would need balancing though. Even if my current heads won't give me the kits full potential I can always upgrade my heads later on.
No one said anything of the sort. Get your head out of your *** and read the thread.
Sounds to me your mind is made and you're looking for validation! ;) do what makes you happy.
7t1gt
Well-Known Member
if you have the $$$ then go for it!!!! then u don't have to pull the motor again and do what u said and up grade head's later and valve train!!!!
BURN RUBBER :burnout:
moper
Well-Known Member
IMO there's more to it than the crank and pistons. I tell people add 25% to a budget for a non-factory displacement. A ver ymild stroker will work with stock heads. It will make torque like a Caddy 500 and rev just as well. So you don;t need gearing or anything. But you do need a cam, you do need the lower end work (I don't build any 4" engine without main studs which adds to block machining), you should address oil either with block mods or bigger pan and windage tray or scraper,and the carb needs to be bigger than most usually think. So there's money there. If it was me I'd just do the 360 unless the money tree fruits up.
moparlover
Well-Known Member
you still need to have the stroker pre-balanced kit checked over
some of the journals on the scat & eagle cranks are not perfect due to bad q/a at manufacturing ... sometimes the cutters get dull so the crank journals are not square at the edges, etc.
also balancing is only $150 or so.
the money you will be saving is for the new pistons. ~$300
but the stroker kit needs to be clearanced at the bottom to make sure your rods dont touch the block anywhere, etc. also you will need a different windage tray because of the stroke.
so really you are not going to be saving anything. just add about $2000 when all is said and done, if you get a good deal.
some of the journals on the scat & eagle cranks are not perfect due to bad q/a at manufacturing ... sometimes the cutters get dull so the crank journals are not square at the edges, etc.
also balancing is only $150 or so.
the money you will be saving is for the new pistons. ~$300
but the stroker kit needs to be clearanced at the bottom to make sure your rods dont touch the block anywhere, etc. also you will need a different windage tray because of the stroke.
so really you are not going to be saving anything. just add about $2000 when all is said and done, if you get a good deal.
I do have the money to build this, I'm just cheap and like my money in my bank account better haha. I know I'm not saving money with a stroker but I can get more power out of it, which is always nice. And I'm planning on getting an unbalanced kit so I can get everything done and balanced at the engine shop, I'm just going to be supplying the parts. And I was already planning on putting in a new pan and winddage tray, well I have to, because the motor came out of a truck, so that was already an expense.
dans4door1970
Well-Known Member
Blueprint engines has the cheapest 408 with a 36,000-3 year warranty but still wont stay in your budget
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