HELP NEEDED!! torsion bar tool

-

DartDude335

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2012
Messages
216
Reaction score
8
Location
Longmont, Colorado
Do any of my Colorado friends have a torsion bar tool I can barrow or enlist their help with rebuilding my front end on my '72 dart?
 
you shouldn't need one ,when removing the lca --use that assembly to pry the torsion bar out the back side (remove the retaining clip).
You might have to clean ups some road grime around the torsion bar mounting area-- but it should come out rather smoothly ,Lawrence
 
you shouldn't need one ,when removing the lca --use that assembly to pry the torsion bar out the back side (remove the retaining clip).
You might have to clean ups some road grime around the torsion bar mounting area-- but it should come out rather smoothly ,Lawrence


he is quick ^^^ ...I was going to say the exact same thing ...I have disassembled a lot of cars and I have never needed a T-bar tool.

if you have to smack it with a hammer repeatedly then that means something is still binding it....shouldn't have to beat up the T-bar to get it out.

make sure the lower control arm nut is off and the adjuster bolt backed off completely
 
In Iowa, things rust everywhere. One bar on the Challenger was a PITA to remove even with the tool I made. The bar was rusted in the LCA. I used the tool on the Dart as well. They came out much nicer. Just clamp the tool to the bar, and tap on the tool with a rubber hammer...no damage to the bar at all.

The tool I made was just a short chunk of thick angle iron with holes drilled in it for two small U-bolts.
 
dartdude-- you really need to read up on your rebuild -- no lca/torsion bar work is done with the tension still on the t bars -- you need to back the adjuster screw off completely.

to get the lca out , the strut rods & the torsion bars make sure the tension is gone

I'm also in the land of rust (Kansas) & so far have been lucky with the removal of said torsion bars. Lawrence
 
dartdude-- you really need to read up on your rebuild -- no lca/torsion bar work is done with the tension still on the t bars -- you need to back the adjuster screw off completely.

to get the lca out , the strut rods & the torsion bars make sure the tension is gone

I'm also in the land of rust (Kansas) & so far have been lucky with the removal of said torsion bars. Lawrence
Good ole Kansas! Im from Great Bend so i know how that goes ...wichita eh? say hi to Damm Music and the Damm Pharmacy for me !! (my cousin and uncles shops)
 
I agree. You have to make sure there are no sharp gouges in the bar. That's where a stress crack will start. I had some minor scrapes just from 90,000 miles of normal use. I made sure to sand them out as best I could.
 
U-bolt, piece of wood for handle. Use rubber tubing on U-bolt to avoid scratches.

Loosening the nut at front of control arm, will release any bushing pre-load. Make sure adjuster is loose. Often bar will come out just with hands. Tighten nut to spec only after ride height is set, for zero bushing pre-load.
 
i've never needed a tool..

i always just:

unload the bar
remove the clip (cross member)
split the lower ball joint
take the strut rod nut off
take the lower control arm nut off
then just tap the lower arm back. usually doesn't take much to push the torsion bar right out.


and never use a pipe wrench or anything that will gouge the bar or hit the bar with a hammer unless you are just trashing them.
 
two pieces of flat bar with holes drilled in them and two bolts and nuts to connect them together and tighten them nuts till you cant grunt no more or you crap your pants .... then tap the t-bars out.
 
-
Back
Top