metallidart
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Some pics of how it was delivered, before I touched anything.
1968 Dart 2dr post RESTO (father/son)
- Thread starter metallidart
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metallidart
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After I took it all apart...
metallidart
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After a thorough degreasing, I was pretty suprised!
It doesn't look bad at all.
metallidart
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Not as bad as I thought it might be when I first saw it lol. Here are some pics of the drivers side inner fender repair.
metallidart
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By the way, any welding you guys see me doing is with a Hobart Handler 140 and .030 Flux core wire. Don't judge lol. I would like to get some mig wire for it but I just never get around to it.
metallidart
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I got the front suspension dropped out of it yesterday, along with the k-member. I didn't take any pics, I was in a hurry because it looked like rain lol.
Here are the front suspension plans::
--I have a V8 K-member from a 72' Demon I parted a loooong time ago, I will do the reinforcement welding of all the seams, and adding some gussets around the box mount and lca pivot holes.
--892/3 340 "resto" t-bars I had originally purchased for my Dart Sport. The boots and clips from the Dart are like new.
--BBP disc set-up I purchased from mikebee
--Correct year OEM sway bar, I will be making my own tabs for the end link mount. May even make it a bushing/heim hybrid.
--the lca and strut rods are super nice, with no pits. I will make some plates like I did for my lower arms on my Dart Sport.
--manual steering, the original box from the Dart still feels nice and tight.
--I won a set of new MP u/l control arm bushings on ebay for $15 recently, they are poly. I was going to use rubber this time, but I could't pass these up.
All I need to buy is the rotors/calipers/pads, lower bj, strut rod bushings, and shocks. I got the front bearing kit from Dr Diff for $30. If you guys have seen alot of the parts I sell, I tend to go overboard cleaning and detailing, this will be no exception.
I think the parts combo I have is going to be a decent cruising setup, definitely no corner carver, but thats what I want from the Dart Sport.
If you guys have any suggestions, by all means, type them up!!
Here are the front suspension plans::
--I have a V8 K-member from a 72' Demon I parted a loooong time ago, I will do the reinforcement welding of all the seams, and adding some gussets around the box mount and lca pivot holes.
--892/3 340 "resto" t-bars I had originally purchased for my Dart Sport. The boots and clips from the Dart are like new.
--BBP disc set-up I purchased from mikebee
--Correct year OEM sway bar, I will be making my own tabs for the end link mount. May even make it a bushing/heim hybrid.
--the lca and strut rods are super nice, with no pits. I will make some plates like I did for my lower arms on my Dart Sport.
--manual steering, the original box from the Dart still feels nice and tight.
--I won a set of new MP u/l control arm bushings on ebay for $15 recently, they are poly. I was going to use rubber this time, but I could't pass these up.
All I need to buy is the rotors/calipers/pads, lower bj, strut rod bushings, and shocks. I got the front bearing kit from Dr Diff for $30. If you guys have seen alot of the parts I sell, I tend to go overboard cleaning and detailing, this will be no exception.
I think the parts combo I have is going to be a decent cruising setup, definitely no corner carver, but thats what I want from the Dart Sport.
If you guys have any suggestions, by all means, type them up!!
Any chance you will show where to weld up the K Frame?
metallidart
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My V8 K-member, before I started on it. Boy, the welds are ugly. It has a few dings on the bottom, but nothing bad. The pivot holes look ok, so far, and I don't see any real damage or cracks.
Method of attack:
-clean/degrease/wire wheel
-spend extra time on the seams and inside the K degreasing so it doesn't melt out and ruin my welds.
-weld every seam and and attaching point completely
-try to figure out where to add gussets around the box
-find some washers and reinforce the lca mounting points
-make a skid plate
-reinforce where the sway bar bolts up
I am also thinking of some type of removable heat shield for the idler arm, and even making holes/tubes for the tranny lines to run through. Feeling creative today, other than the consumables doing this is FREE! lol
Method of attack:
-clean/degrease/wire wheel
-spend extra time on the seams and inside the K degreasing so it doesn't melt out and ruin my welds.
-weld every seam and and attaching point completely
-try to figure out where to add gussets around the box
-find some washers and reinforce the lca mounting points
-make a skid plate
-reinforce where the sway bar bolts up
I am also thinking of some type of removable heat shield for the idler arm, and even making holes/tubes for the tranny lines to run through. Feeling creative today, other than the consumables doing this is FREE! lol
metallidart
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Some pics of the cleanup. I used my air chisel and spread apart some of the barely welded seams, and degreaser/toothbrushes/4" wire wheel/wire brushes/screwdriver/pick/compressed air/purple clean/etc to make them clean, then I hammered them back together--flatter and nicer than it was originally.
What will you use to degrease it? I have tried a lot of stuff with varying degrees of success, but never gotten parts as clean as I want.
metallidart
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More clean up pics.
metallidart
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I have been using the spray-on engine degreaser, I think made by Gunk? Its the stuff they sell at walmart, family dollar, advance, pretty much anywhere. Kinda smells like kerosene. I scrub it with whatever I can get into the places, and I even use a small pick to dig in the crevices and get dirt out. I do it over and over, blowing it out with air, and last I spray undiluted purple clean on it and scrub it with a non-oily toothbrush. Its alot of work, but it is coming clean! lol I should drag it all to my dads and use his pressure washer lol.
Thanks, I wonder if I can get by with using the car wash to clean my K Frame.
metallidart
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I didn't think of the car wash...I bet that would work just as good as a pressure washer, especially if you presoak it a few times and scrape off alot of the thick stuff.
Idaho
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A pressure washer would be a good start but will not get all the gunk out of the inside. A soak in a rad shop's tank will do it. You can also do a home method if you have a tub large enough for a long soak in a solution of degreaser like Simple Green.
metallidart
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I am remodeling my house, and I told my fiance I really dont want to leave the clawfoot tub in the kids bathroom, I know it will be a nightmare. Maybe it should become my new parts tank....
Not a bad Idea. Build a platform to sit high and have a go at it.
I think you might like these sites for homemade tools.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/
metallidart
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Thanks! I have a feeling I know what I will be doing today while the baby is sleeping lol.
metallidart
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Some of the welding I did the other day! This is the first welder I have ever owned, and the only other previous experience was in High School with a stick welder. I'm only on my 2nd small spool, needless to say I'm still learning lol. But, I am happy with the results!
metallidart
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I kept the beads short, even though I doubt I would warp it I didn't want to take any chances. I also took lots of measurements before I started, and I check them periodically.
Thanks this is helping me on knowing where to weld.
metallidart
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Cool! Glad I can help! I have to do some more research on where to reinforce around the steering box mount, and the best way to reinforce the lca hole. I hung out with my youngest boy today, and now its raining, so I won't be doing any work. Kinda anxious to finish welding this K-member, I am having a blast with this car!
Idaho
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I've got pics of welding mine up. Here's a couple pics of some reinforcement. I welded a tow hook and skid plate on as well.
You're doing fine with the welder. I'm mostly self taught as well. Looks like you could turn it up for more penetration.This metal is thick enough to handle some current
You're doing fine with the welder. I'm mostly self taught as well. Looks like you could turn it up for more penetration.This metal is thick enough to handle some current
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