Is Moroso A-B epoxy good stuff? Anything better?

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metallidart

metallidart

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Hopefully someone can help me. Porting tonight, probably the best porting I have ever done, when my fiance stops by with my little boy for a visit. They only stayed a few minutes, I went back to porting, but I was thinking of them, and for the first time in my life, I cut too deep. On the intake runner of one of my magnum heads, right at the top of the bulge. It is only a small crack, maybe a quarter of an inch long if that. You can see that it bulged the metal out in a bubble just a little bigger than the crack out towards the pushrod. I am almost done porting the freakin head...

All you head porting guys, professional or not, what is the best type of epoxy AND application techniques you have used to repair something like this? I don't have the means to have it welded/brazed/etc. It is on an intake port so it doesn't have to withstand exhaust heat. I can apply it on both sides of the metal, so I don't think I will have to worry about it coming loose. I just don't want a big oil-sucking vacuum leak.

I have read about Moroso A-B, A788 Splash Zone, and a few others. I really only have about $40 to spend, and I can order the moroso stuff tonight and probably have it monday.

Help me out!!!
 
Moroso A-B.

Went through a E-brock head in the push rod pinch. Used Moroso A-B and piece of brass tube in pushrod hole as backing.

Also used it to make a MP M-1 intake with spread bore carb flang into a square bore carb flange.

All is fine after 3 years and 6,000 miles, lot of short errand type trips.
 

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superdart426 said:
can't get it welded for 40??
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I'm not sure. I probably wouldn't be able to check around until Monday.

autoxcuda said:
Moroso A-B.

Went through a E-brock head in the push rod pinch. Used Moroso A-B and piece of brass tube in pushrod hole as backing.

Also used it to make a MP M-1 intake with spread bore carb flang into a square bore carb flange.

All is fine after 3 years and 6,000 miles, lot of short errand type trips.
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Now THAT is pretty cool. I was wondering how it held up under that type of driving. I wonder if the Edelbrock A-B stuff is the same, Advance Auto has it for about the same price as the Moroso stuff. It is just a really small spot, I will try to get a pic tomorrow. I didn't actually make a hole, it just got thin enough to push the metal out and put a crack down the middle of the bubble. Hmmm....
 
metallidart said:
Now THAT is pretty cool. I was wondering how it held up under that type of driving. I wonder if the Edelbrock A-B stuff is the same, Advance Auto has it for about the same price as the Moroso stuff. It is just a really small spot, I will try to get a pic tomorrow. I didn't actually make a hole, it just got thin enough to push the metal out and put a crack down the middle of the bubble. Hmmm....
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A 3-4 times a week I drive it a 5 miles back and forth to the grocery store, friends houses, or other errands. Usually one trip I take a detour on the freeway for a 5600 rpm shifted on-ramp acceration :burnout:

We just took some brass tube, split it, formed it around the pushrod hole, and used moroso A-B expoxy to glue it in place. You might be able to grind a tiny shelf in the pushrod hole to hook the tube to the hole. But the epoxy will hold everything fine.
 
65Val said:
[/B]

Hopefully it's better than their gold-anodized valve covers!
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Haha I saw that thread, kinda scary what could be hanging off aftermarket parts and we may never notice it!
autoxcuda said:
A 3-4 times a week I drive it a 5 miles back and forth to the grocery store, friends houses, or other errands. Usually one trip I take a detour on the freeway for a 5600 rpm shifted on-ramp acceration :burnout:

We just took some brass tube, split it, formed it around the pushrod hole, and used moroso A-B expoxy to glue it in place. You might be able to grind a tiny shelf in the pushrod hole to hook the tube to the hole. But the epoxy will hold everything fine.
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That sounds like a plan to me. First thing in the morning I am calling around to see if anyone has it. Thanks!
 
Oh I am sure it holds up. Look at that job autoxcuda did on his intake. That looks great. I don't know why he simply didn't use the thin metal plate to convert it, but what he did looks really good.
 
RustyRatRod said:
As well as their attitude about the same.
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I never checked the thread, did somebody contact Moroso? I'm gonna have to check it out.

My biggest concern about the putty was durability. From what I can tell, it works great as long as the proper prep is done. I'm even wondering if I need to put anything as a backing, since it isn't a hole, yet. I think if I apply it on both sides, and make sure it pushes through the crack, it should be ok. I will get some pics in an hour or so lol.

That intake does look really good. I have got so many ideas from this site, way more creativity and fabricating on this site than any other forum I go to.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Oh I am sure it holds up. Look at that job autoxcuda did on his intake. That looks great. I don't know why he simply didn't use the thin metal plate to convert it, but what he did looks really good.
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A square bolt carb will bolt directly to that spread bore M1 intake.

But the idea is for the air to have a straight flow path down the intake. Buy leaving a divet or crevice for the wider spread bore, you could get turbulance and fuel puddling. Honestly it's probably overkill. I doubt even measurable on a dyno.

But ns1rm21 did it on his 440 M1 intake and he noticed the idle quality get better. No other changes. Also before he filled the gaps he would see gas stains and wetness in those spread bore gaps, especially when running race gas.... So we did it with my SB M1. Only cost was the Moroso AB expoxy and we had a bunch leftover because a pushrod pinch hole repair. So what the heck.

For having a single plane intake, a warm cam, double pumper silver claw carb it's really no brainer putt around town street friendly. It will first crank start from dead cold in the morning after sitting a week. And if I'm really in a rush, I don't even wait to let it warm up before I leave. No choke either. Now that is not all just because of this intake mod. Not hardly. But it's a lot of little things adding up.
 
Hay, you did it like you wanted and it turned out really nice.
 
Well, I ordered some Moroso A-B epoxy today. I will finish porting the head tomorrow and get the spot all clean and ready to apply the putty, hopefully I get it tuesday and I can try it out. Here is my little oops, first pic it is circled, second pic shows the tiny crack, and the third shows how it bulged out into the pushrod side.
 

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A cracks a crack and why not enlarge it a little to give it some bonding with the material on the other side. I would think that gives you the maximum grip for the material on each side and less chance for either piece coming loose. Nothing like a hardened piece of epoxy roaming around inside your motor, might not be so pretty on the intake side if it gets caught between a valve and piston, although the stuff might just disentingrate.
Good luck
 
I scraped up the cash and ordered the Moroso stuff from Summit earlier this week, got it the other day, and I am finally getting around to attempting it today. I noticed a few other spots that were bulged out, but no holes. So, I started to poke around with the pick. Boy, I must have been a little happy with the die grinder that day! I need an e-tool lol.
 

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I scrubbed, sanded, scrubbed, sprayed with brake cleaner, over and over, until i could wipe a white washcloth across the areas inside and outside of the port and not get anything on the cloth. Friggin finger is raw now.
 
Btw, I think the waviness in the inside part of the port, where I gasket matched it, is just the lighting. It doesn't look like that in person.
 
WOW whats the point in opening up the intake so far??wen I do the intake side I think gasket matching and funnel it back and do all the porting in the bowl area.then lay the head surface back a small amont around the tite area around the valve(and buy no means im downing your work im just asking)and that epoxy works very well..........Artie
 
These magnum heads have a ridiculously large pushrod bulge, way bigger than the LA heads. Wish I had a before pic to show you! I was just trying to do what I could to help them breathe, from what I have read/studied pictures/etc. Its my first set of magnums, I guess I was also curious to see what I could do lol. The smaller hole was an accident, but the bigger 2 was just me getting too greedy haha.

I didn't think you were downing anything, besides, I like criticism, good or bad, gives me something to learn from!
 
Run and brass sleeve in there. The sleeve will be supported around the pushrod hole. It's all too thin right now.

Then just smooth/fine sandroll until you see the sleeve poking through.
 
65Val said:
[/B]

Hopefully it's better than their gold-anodized valve covers!
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metallidart said:
I never checked the thread, did somebody contact Moroso? I'm gonna have to check it out. ...
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Darwin, it also apparently is on their blue anodized valve covers as well. metallidart, yes I did. Rick Moroso joined FABO to post a couple of replies on my thread that speak for themselves.
 
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