A question that I am not sure how to even ask...

[memike]

Pull all spark plugs and pull the coil wire and spin the engine to make sure you do not have oil sitting on top of the pistons, any valve that is open could let oil that was setting on top for just a couple hours will make it's way past any old seal and worn guides..
Was this /6 setting for a long time ? and you started it ? You broke up a bunch of sludge and it plugged up your oil passages, wow, I would like to see the engine with the valve cover off, I bet the push rode are sliding up and down a cake of built up sludge ........................Just a thought.

 

[jimjimjimmy]

Pull all spark plugs and pull the coil wire and spin the engine to make sure you do not have oil sitting on top of the pistons, any valve that is open could let oil that was setting on top for just a couple hours will make it's way past any old seal and worn guides..
Was this /6 setting for a long time ? and you started it ? You broke up a bunch of sludge and it plugged up your oil passages, wow, I would like to see the engine with the valve cover off, I bet the push rode are sliding up and down a cake of built up sludge ........................Just a thought.

it maybe from the esso extra days that **** clogged every engine up around here

 

[RustyRatRod]

The kerosene idea would have worked.....20 years ago. Now, that sludge is so hard kerosene will never do it.

 

[dartnabout]

Hmmmm.....very interesting! :banghead:

 

[bigblockbird]

:-\"

 

[Coronet 500]

If your sure the oil is in the valve cover, I would find a low spot at the flange where it will drain and pop a hole in with a scratch awl and direct it into a container. when the cover is off a small weld will fix the cover and probably save hours of clean up.

 

[BillGrissom]

I suspect DC is pulling your leg. 2 days and no answer? It isn't that hard to unscrew the drain plug. Even the title sounds like a come-on. Maybe I'll try posting this on a Chevy site and keep them waiting.

 

[cudajim]

My first reaction is you've got lots and lots of sludge in the top end not allowing oil to drain to the crankcase.

Oil back then was not like today's detergent oils so sludge built up easily. I wouldn't even run it, just take it out and rebuild the engine. That sludge will eventually dislodge and bad things will happen.

 

[cjh]

My first reaction is you've got lots and lots of sludge in the top end not allowing oil to drain to the crankcase.

Oil back then was not like today's detergent oils so sludge built up easily. I wouldn't even run it, just take it out and rebuild the engine. That sludge will eventually dislodge and bad things will happen.

Yep, exactly what will happen....seen it happen with late model stuff too.
This vehicle is a 1998 model with only 180,000km (approx. 112,000 miles) on it......did an oil change, and then it wouldn't get oil pressure because the pick up was blocked off.
Probably only ever had 4 or less oil changes in it's life.

 

[The DC]

Okay, I hope I am loading these pics properly, but I found an interesting bit of structural damage under the valve cover.

Here's the pics of the fairly clean looking area:

 

[The DC]

Trying to upload photos again ...

 

[The DC]

And again...

 

[MoparDaddy]

Nasty

 

[The DC]

I suspect DC is pulling your leg. 2 days and no answer? It isn't that hard to unscrew the drain plug. Even the title sounds like a come-on. Maybe I'll try posting this on a Chevy site and keep them waiting.

Sorry for the confusion, but I noted in my first posting that I'd pulled the drain plug before posting.

The delay has been to work schedule and good weather for the valve cover...

 

[The DC]

And here's more interesting pics; note not too dirty inside but look at the rear edge...

Note the milky deposits in the broken collar of the rear...

 

[The DC]

Here's the close up of the upper rear with broken collar.

 

[The DC]

Whew!!! Got the pics thru!!!

What are your thoughts? I'm wondering if the motor was rebuilt before I got her and someone banged the collar on the port, breaking the threaded part?

She's not too dirty, really, but the milky sludge there?

 

[The DC]

Pull all spark plugs and pull the coil wire and spin the engine to make sure you do not have oil sitting on top of the pistons, any valve that is open could let oil that was setting on top for just a couple hours will make it's way past any old seal and worn guides..
Was this /6 setting for a long time ? and you started it ? You broke up a bunch of sludge and it plugged up your oil passages, wow, I would like to see the engine with the valve cover off, I bet the push rode are sliding up and down a cake of built up sludge ........................Just a thought.

I was told that she was run weekly a little distance, but I didn't own it, so...

 

[65 Dartman]

So where did 7 quarts of oil go?

 

[pyrojim]

so where did 7 quarts of oil go?

x2

 

[64ragtop]

That's what I was wondering as well. You got the valve cover off and didn't find 7 quarts of oil. Where the heck did it go??

What I see in the pics you sent (and I'm no expert) looks like you've had some water in your oil, and I think I see antifreeze on a valve spring or two.

Sometimes some of us get a little impatient trying to help someone and they disappear. I'm retired, and have way too much free time on my hands. Now that we know that you have a life away from your cars and that you're a real poster, not a troll, our patience level may go up a bit.

Now, about those 7 quarts of oil......

BC

 

[805moparkid]

ok on the pics. that plug was for cleaning out during the casting process.

On drain Back... the oil returns are a ~1/4" hole between each lifter pair AND a hole going to the timing set.

What i would do. pull the drain plug and with the cover off put equal amoutn of 1 qt of cheap ATF in each of the lifter area's (you'll see how the block is divided. watch and see how they drain, should be right now and you should see it coming out of the pan. if it drains into the pan and out then you put the oil into the wrong hole.

now, if the ATF doesn't drain then get the wire coat hanger out and clean out all the holes and then let the ATF sit over night and drain it. then pour 4.5 qts of oil with the cover off (verify drain to the pan) and then a half qt of ATF. check the stick, if you have a oil line great, if its on the mark better! if not get a longer stick (chevy SB work great and are long enough to cut down).

let us know!

 

[The DC]

ok on the pics. that plug was for cleaning out during the casting process.

On drain Back... the oil returns are a ~1/4" hole between each lifter pair AND a hole going to the timing set.

What i would do. pull the drain plug and with the cover off put equal amoutn of 1 qt of cheap ATF in each of the lifter area's (you'll see how the block is divided. watch and see how they drain, should be right now and you should see it coming out of the pan. if it drains into the pan and out then you put the oil into the wrong hole.

now, if the ATF doesn't drain then get the wire coat hanger out and clean out all the holes and then let the ATF sit over night and drain it. then pour 4.5 qts of oil with the cover off (verify drain to the pan) and then a half qt of ATF. check the stick, if you have a oil line great, if its on the mark better! if not get a longer stick (chevy SB work great and are long enough to cut down).

let us know!

Okay, I'll try that.

As for putting the oil in the wrong hole, I poured it into the spout, under the breather, in the front of the valve cover. It was stamped oil twice, in two directions [I think it was the stock valve breather & needed a cleaning.].

Like I said, I'll try your suggestion, but I was also thinking about hand turning the fan after pulling a plug out, one at a time, in case the oil got into the cylinders, to see if some spurts out there? I could use a pump to clear it from the cylinder?

Does anyone have a diagram, of the upper block that shows where the drain pugs are? I have checked to service manual and no dice. I thought that the casting bolts were until you educated me about that. One is damaged and sludgy inside. I was going to probe the drains with a straw as well.

Now I haven't worked on one of these in twenty years, but this doesn't look very dirty to me, by comparison. I'm just not seeing the sludge?

BTW: I am not shocked bout the oil still missing. If its in the cylinders or clogged up above the screen below the drains, I would think that this block, which is huge, could easily hide that much, couldn't it?

Thanks for you patience and ideas. I am really wanting to save this old girl...

 

[RustyRatRod]

Hate to say it, but that engine needs to come down. That "broken collar" is called a core plug. It's been leaking coolant into the valve cover area of the cylinder head. That's going to have to be removed and replaced. Only way to get that out is to remove the head and get it to a machine shop to be drilled out. Or you could replace the head. But the milky looking substance is where coolant has been leaking from it. Now, about the engine oil. Is it remotely possible that since it's fresh oil that you simply are not seeing it on the dipstick? Have you held it in the light good to try to catch the reflection? Stranger things have happened. The head actually looks pretty clean. No chance the oil drain back holes are plugged there. Can you shine a light into the pushrod holes and look at the oil return holes in the block where the lifters are? See what that looks like.

 

[MrDuster]

Not an expert...more farmer mechanic here with little knowledge of your engine...am interested though in what you find out. I was thinking maybe it went into the coolant passageways? Maybe pulling the water block drain? What do you think of using diesel instead of ATF? I've found it an excellent lubricant for freeing stuck rusty/gummy parts...in fact, got my heater box door soaking in it now. Old German farmer uses it around here to free his model T enginevalves when they stick...just an idea...I used it to clean out tar in an old Graco spray unit...worked great.