"451 Manifesto"

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inkjunkie

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inkjunkie submitted a new Article:

"451 Manifesto"

At least I think that is what it was called. It was an article written by Andy F. I believe. Was on the AREngineering site, but my site appears to be down. Was also in Andy's book about building big block's.....have spent the past week looking for my copy of it......have zero clue where it is....Anyhow, by any chance does anyone have a digital copy of it they might have saved off of his site? Or can someone see if it is just something with my PC by checking to see if the AREngineering site is up & running? Thanks...

This is actually about a 431 based off the 383, but contains ALOT of the same info. I had it copied some time ago.



Block Deck Height:

The 383 block, with a deck height of 9.980" is perfect for a 3.75" stroke. The 440 block is really too tall for a motor of less than 500 cubic inches since its deck height of 10.72" requires a piston which has a compression height of 2.077" to make a zero deck. The BBC has a deck height of 9.80" for the regular block and 10.2" for the "tall block". That means that the 440 is over 0.50 taller than the special Chevy tall block. The 383 block is right in between the two BBC's. The lower deck height of the 383 means less block weight. It also means the engine fits into tight engine compartments easier. It also means that the pushrods are shorter which in turn makes them lighter and more rigid. A complete 431 can weigh as much as 40 pounds less than a similar 440 due to these differences.

Rod/Stroke Ratio:

The debate still rages on about Long Rod Engine Vs. Short Rod Engine. This was a major issue in the Moparts.com Forum Topic # 1390339. We will look at each Rod Length. You will see that both combinations are both 0.005 outside of the magic 1.70:1 to 1.80:1 Rod/Stroke Ratio. You have to decide which design fits you application.

Long Rod/Stroke Ratio:

Some builders say that longer rods (440 Rods = 6.768”) are better since they reduce side loading on the cylinder walls. A ratio of around 1.70:1 to 1.80:1 seems to be a decent compromise between rod length, strength, weight, etc. The 454 BBC has a stock ratio of 1.53:1 and those motors run okay. The LR431 Stroker allows for a 1.805:1 ratio with stock length 440 rods and it still leaves just enough room for a nice,lightweight, and strong piston.

Short Rod/Stroke Ratio:

Other builders say that the shorter rods (383 Rods = 6.358”) provide an engine with better detonation resistance. The SR431 has a Rod/Stroke Ratio of 1.695:1.

As Quoted from Popular Hot Rodding magazine:

“According to two-time champion Jon Kasse the short rod yields very fast piston action at TDC and minimizes dwell time so the pistons get away from the chambers as quickly as possible. More time spent at (near) TDC increases the chance that non-homogenized portions of the mixture will ignite on their own and rattle the motor. Smaller bores are advantageous because they reduce the distance the flame front has to travel and the smaller area also offers less opportunity for unwanted secondary flame fronts to develop. The small-bore theory must not be taken to the extreme or valve shrouding becomes a larger issue.”

While it's true the piston with the shorter rod is a little heavier, the shorter rod itself is a little lighter.

Bore/Stroke Ratio:

Bigger Bore to Stroke ratios tend to be good up to a point since they reduce the valve shrouding (too big on the bores and the combustion process falters). The 400 block has a STD bore of 4.340”, so it has the largest stock bore size. The 440 bore is 4.320” at STD, so that means it cannot be bored as large as a 400. The 383 bore is 4.250” at STD, which is the same size as the Ford 427 and the Chevy 427. This is a very nice bore size since rings are readily available. The 431 Stroker has a Bore/Stroke Ratio of 4.280/3.75, which is 1.14 and is pretty good. It is not as good as the 1.17 in the 451 Stroker, but better than the 1.06 of a 454 BBC. Still the Ford 302 is much better with the 1.33.

Rotating weight:

As mentioned above, the lower deck height allows for a more compact piston, which in turn reduces the piston weight significantly. The following data comes from many sources, including the Mopar Engine Manual (1989), a reproduction 1968 Factory Engine Manual, and a 1969 Chiltons, to name some sources. [NOTE: The next measurements are estimates and should not be used for specification.] The typical piston/pin/rod assembly in a stock 400 weighs 1930 grams. The same assembly for a LR451 using stock 440 rods weighs 1660 grams. Were as, the SR451 using stock 383/400 rods weighs 1710 grams. The typical piston/pin/rod assembly in a stock 440 weighs 2070 grams. The typical piston/pin/rod assembly in a stock 383 weighs 1935 grams. The LR431 using stock 440 rods weighs 1650 grams. Where as, the SR431 using the stock 383/400 rod weighs 1720 grams. (This can be made even about 13 grams lighter by using 0.990 pins)

Weight Break Down and Balancing Information

383 OEM Pistons = 770 grams 383/SR431 Pistons = 615 grams

400 OEM Pistons = 768.5 grams 383/LR431 Pistons = 500 grams

440 OEM Pistons = 857.5 grams 400/SR451 Pistons = 608 grams

383/400 OEM Rods = 810 grams 400/LR451 Pistons = 510 grams

440 “LY” Rods = 860 grams Piston Pin - 1.094” = 162 grams

OEM Piston Pin = 225 grams Piston Pin - .0990” = 149 grams

On the LR431, the reduction of 283 grams per cylinder means a weight reduction of 2264 grams, or 4.99 pounds from the rotating assembly. The SR431 has a reduction of 215 grams per cylinder, which is a loss of 1720 grams, or 3.8 pounds from the rotating assembly. An additional amount must be taken off of the crank counterweights to balance the motor and to make it fit in the engine. [NOTE: The next measurements are estimates and should not be used for specification.] This amount should be about 1050 grams or 2.31 pounds for the LR431. The SR431 should be around 1100 grams or 2.4 pounds. However, because this engine is in the design phase, there are currently no facts that support this weight loss. But if the estimates are correct, then the SR431 - LR431 rotating assembly is 6.54lbs - 7.3lbs lighter, respectively, than a factory 383. This is using fairly common parts. Because of the success of the 451, the 431 will gain from the proven, more exotic parts. This means you can save even more weight easier on a 431, by choosing the right combination.

Balancing and Bobweight:A SR431 using Diamond Pistons, OEM rods and 1.094" pin, needs to have a bobweight around 2350 grams (2348 grams on ours). A LR431 using Diamond Pistons, 440-Source I-Beam rods and 0.990" pin has a bobweight of around 2200 grams. One interesting note was the useage of a forged crankshaft instead of a cast 440 unit. The cast crankshaft is much lighter than the forged unit. The SR431 needed over 700 grams of heavy (mallory) metal to be added to the cast crankshaft to be used in this application. I have to note that if we would have used a 440 harmonic balancer and a weighted torque convertor, the added weight would have been less. So because of the high expense in using the cast unit and the availability of the forged units, we choose to have a forged unit cut down. Once cut, the crankshaft only needed 14 grams removed to balance. That is cutting it very close without adding material.

Engine Assembly: The parts are easy to come by since 383 blocks are plentiful, 440 cranks are easy to find in the aftermarket and not too bad swap meet stuff. Stock 440 rods work, but Manley, C&A, Eagle, Crower, etc make rods also if you want/need high strength stuff. Due to the recent interest in the 431 Stroker, pistons are beginning to become available. Several manufacturers can produce custom pistons, but Diamond Racing (www.diamondracing.net) and Ross Pistons (www.rosspistons.com) are considering producing off the shelf pistons to work with some of these combinations. There are four different piston configurations that need to be explained. Not all of these are off-the-shelf.

1. SR431 – 4.28” Bore, 3.75” Stroke, 1.735” CH, 1.094” Pin, 6.358” Rod

2. SR431 – 4.28” Bore, 3.75” Stroke, 1.735” CH, 0.990” Pin, 6.358” Rod

3. LR431 – 4.28” Bore, 3.75” Stroke, 1.320” CH, 1.094” Pin, 6.768” Rod

4. LR431 – 4.28” Bore, 3.75” Stroke, 1.320” CH, 0.990” Pin, 6.768” Rod

The 440 crankshaft has a Main Journal of 2.75”. This needs to be turned down to the 383/400 STD. main size of 2.625”. Also, the counterweights need to be turned down to a diameter of 7.250”. The crankshaft can have a full radii put on it, so it actually turns out quite strong in the process. There are aftermarket companies (www.440source.com, for example) that are selling new crankshafts that already fit this application and others. They have a 3.75", 3.915", 4.15" and a 4.25" stroker crankshaft.
In the past, one way to build the 451 was to bore out the mains on a 400 block to accept the stock 440 crankshaft. You have to machine in the tabs to hold the bearings and then you are usually stuck with an undersize crank. Besides, you still have to send the crank to the machine shop to reduce the counterweights. To argue from a technical standpoint, bigger bearings cost horsepower due to increased friction. This is no longer the recommended procedure, but given for reference value. If a cast crankshaft is going to be used, by opening up the internal areas of the block, it is possible the install an uncut (outer diameter) cast unit. This would allow for the weight to remain on the crankshaft and it would probably internally balance.

Other Build Examples: The rod journals on the 440 crankshaft can be turned down to BBC size of 2.200”. This allows the stroke to increased or decreased by offset grinding. A max stroke of 3.90” is possible this way and that yields a 448 cubic inch engine. Manley is selling 6.700" Chevy rods that make this combination work and it makes a really nice engine. The piston is even lighter since it is 0.075” shorter and so the rotating assembly weight drops again. Also, the piston pin is changed to a 0.990” pin in this combination and that drops the weight by another 10 to 20 grams per cylinder. The smaller bearing has less frictional loss and it allows for a physically smaller rod, which means more camshaft clearance and more block clearance. Other examples come from 440-Source. Using the 383 Block: SR457" Stroker aftermarket crankshaft with a stroke of 3.915" and a Chevy 6.535" rod. LR457" Stroker aftermarket crankshaft with a stroke of 3.915" and a Mopar "LY" 6.760" rod. The 484" Stroker uses a 4.15" aftermarket crankshaft and a Mopar "LY" 6.760" rod. The 496" Stroker uses a 4.25" aftermarket crankshaft and a Chevy 6.535" rod

Final Thought: The decision on which type of 431 Stroker you want to build is based upon application and personal preference. Some say the LR431 is the way to go because that has been the combination used by most of the 451 Stroker builders. However, the SR431 may have benefits as far as high torque applications, such as trucks, towing and streetability.

Thank You Sir....

Here is the 451 Manifesto. I found it. I had it saved buried. lol

The 451 is arguably the best BB Mopar engine combination available. The 451, which is made by dropping a 440 crank into a 400 block, has almost perfect design parameters.Deck Height: The 400 block, with a deck height of 9.980 is perfect for a 3.75 stroke since a 1.80 rod ratio yields a nice light compression height of 1.355. The 440 block is really too tall for a motor of less than 500 cubic inches since its deck height of 10.72 requires a piston which has a compression height of 2.077 to make a zero deck. This means that 451 has a typical piston weight of around 550 grams instead of 800+ for the 440. BTW, the BBC has a deck height of 9.80 for the regular block and 10.2 for the “tall block”. That means that the 440 is over 0.50 taller than the special Chevy tall block. The 400 block is right in between the two BBC’s. The lower deck height of the 400 means less block weight. It also means the engine fits into tight engine compartments easier. It also means that the pushrods are shorter which in turn makes them lighter and more rigid. A complete 451 can weigh as much as 40 pounds less than a similiar 440 due to these differences.

R/S ratio: Okay the debate still rages but for all practical purposes, longer rods are better since they reduce side loading on the cylinder walls. A ratio of around 1.80 seems to be a decent compromise between rod length, strength, weight, etc. The 454 BBC has a stock ratio of 1.53:1 and those motors run okay. 1.80:1 is better but I’m not sure that 2:1 is worth paying extra for. The 451 allows for a 1.80:1 ratio with stock length 440 rods and it still leaves just enough room for a nice, lightweight, and strong piston.
B/S ratio: Bigger bore to stroke ratios tend to be good up to a point since they reduce the valve shrouding (too big on the bores and the combustion process falters). The 400 block has a std bore of 4.340 so it has the largest stock bore size. The 440 bore is 4.320 at std so that means it cannot be bored as large as a 400. A bore of 4.375 is a very nice bore size since rings are readily available. That is a 0.035 over 400 but it would be a 0.055 over 440. Less overbore means more strength and the possibility of additonal overbores. 4.375/3.75 is 1.17 which is pretty good. Better than the 1.06 of a 454 BBC but not as nice as the 1.33 of a 302.
Rotating weight: As mentioned above, the lower deck height allows for a more compact piston which in turn reduces the piston weight significantly. The longer 440 rod and longer stroke of the 440 crank also means that a 451 has lighter pistons than a stock 400. The typical piston/pin/rod assembly in a 400 weighs 1930 grams. The same assembly for a 451 using stock 440 rods weighs 1630 grams. (This can be made even lighter by using 0.990 pins) The reduction of 300 grams per cylinder means a weight reduction of 2400 grams, or 5.3 pounds from the assembly. An additional amount must be taken off of the crank counterweights to balance the motor. This amount is 1060 grams or 2.33 pounds for the above configuration. That means that the 451 rotating assembly is 7.6 pounds lighter than a 400. Pretty dramatic results when you mash on the loud petal from that kind of weight reduction. This weight savings can be obtained while using fairly common parts. The 451 accomodates itself to more exotic parts due to the piston dimensions and rod lengths. That means you can save even more weight easier on a 451 than on a 400 or 440.
A good rule of thumb is to figure a bobweight of 2400 grams for these motors as it will almost always balance out a bit less than that. And it is always easier to remove metal from the counterweights than it is to add it!!

Easy to build: The parts are easy to come by since 400 blocks are quite common (and not very well liked so they tend to be cheap), 440 cranks are easy to find in the aftermarket and not too bad swap meet stuff. Stock 440 rods work but Manley, C&A, Eagle, Crower, etc make rods also if you want/need high strength stuff. Several manufacturers produce off the shelf pistons to work with this combo so that is easy. The 440 crank needs to be turned down to the 383/400 main size and the counterweights need to be turned down to a diameter of 7.250 but that is easy crank shop stuff. The crank can have a full radii put on it so it actually turns out quite strong in the process. It is possible to bore out the mains on a 400 block to accept the stock 440 crank but that seems the hard way to go. You have to machine in the tabs to hold the bearings and then you are usually stuck with an undersize crank. Besides, you still have to send the crank to the machine shop to reduce the counterweights. And to argue from a technical standpoint, bigger bearings cost horsepower due to increased friction.Similiar combinations: The rod journals on the 440 crank can be turned down to BBC size of 2.200. This allows the stroke to increased or decreased by offset grinding. A max stroke of 3.90 is possible this way and that yields a 470 cubic inch motor. Manley is selling rods that make this combination work and it makes a really nice motor. The piston is even lighter since it is 0.075 shorter and so the rotating assembly weight drops again. Also, the piston pin is changed to a 0.990 pin in this combination and that drops the weight by another 30 or 40 grams per cylinder. The smaller bearing has less frictional loss and it allows for a physically smaller rod which means more camshaft clearance and more block clearance. (see how it all works out kind of cool?) This is a bit more money to build but it is still very reasonable. The Manley rods are $750 and the offset grinding is usually about $100 or so.

So there are my reasons for calling it the best of the Mopar BB’s. Lighter, stiffer, smaller for not much extra money. Sounds like a winner to me.
(This article was originally published on the internet a number of years back. Some of the information is now out of date, but I’ve let the article remain since it is widely linked to. For more current information on building a stroker big-block Mopar engine I’d recommend reading my max performance book.)

at least I think that is what it was called. It was an article written by Andy F. I believe. Was on the AREngineering site, but my site appears to be down. Was also in Andy's book about building big block's.....have spent the past week looking for my copy of it......have zero clue where it is....Anyhow, by any chance does anyone have a digital copy of it they might have saved off of his site? Or can someone see if it is just something with my PC by checking to see if the AREngineering site is up & running? Thanks...

The original article in on my website at www.arengineering.com

A lot of the information is dated but still useful in general. The Mopar big block book that I wrote a few years ago has a lot more information in it. I'd recommend getting a copy of the book before building a new engine. It is only $20 from Amazon.

The 451 is still a very popular combination these days. There are a lot of pistons available for it as well as the slightly larger 470 combo. Here is a PDF document showing some of the piston choices for the 470. Lots of these also work in a 451 if you use a longer rod.

Read more about this article here...
 
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Should be in the Mopar Bible...You should compile an updated version and your many little 'trade secrets' the Mopar world needs a modern version and would sell like funnel cakes at silver dollar city....In the begining triple R led the moparites out of the land of frauds,parted the chevron sea and prophesied about the coming Hemi who would save us....and so on...lol
 
My guy,has one assembled, one running. The runner,choked back with 915 worked heads(9.6 compression, heads milled. Runs'11 teens,on the index.(kids first car,Duster ,like Tony's). Second one,kind of interesting. High compression, The newer Edelbrocks(Victors ,IIRC),involved. He was knocking on 350 cfm,a while back) ....
 
....Looking at 440Source's web site they have kits for both a 451 and a 470. They have the 451 showing a stroke of 3.750" using a 6.760" rod. They show the 470 kit using a 3.915" crank using a 6.535" rod. I remember seeing a post from Mike at MRL a while back, at least I think it was him, on a site somewhere that he made mention of a 470 using the longer rods. Can the 470 be built with the 6.760" rod? If so, what does it do to the power curve, assuming equal compression, cam and airflow? Seem to remember Mike mentioning that the torque curve was a good bit different, and that it was more of a truck style power curve, sacrificing a bit of top end for the midrange. Or did I just chug too much bong water lately?
 
Doug, is this gonna be a street car? Not that I think you will ever know the difference between either connecting rod, but piston speed will be higher with the shorter rod which *supposedly* is better for a street motor.

I am certain the 470 can be built either way as you can get pistons custom made for anything if they are not off the shelf, but I am sure somebody makes something for it. That's a popular cube motor. "I" would just run the 451 and be done with it.
 
Yes Sir....truth of the matter is I am just tossing things around in my head. What I am hoping to be able to avoid is building a motor to get the car up and running..get the bugs chased out of it then end up tossing a whole crap load of more parts at it to get it to run harder. It is not going to be a dedicated drag racer but will hopefully see quite a bit of track time. Big thing for me is I do not want to drive around needing a fuel tanker in tow. Nearest reasonable priced fuel stop is 30 or so miles form home. Don't want to have to keep 5 gallons of gas in the garage for the car just to make it back to the gas station. I want it all, a hard running ride that is is still driveable....which is why I am really leaning to a forced induction arrangement......but the expense of all the doo dads is sort of disturbing at the same time.....Hmmmm.......
 
The main advantage of the 470" over the 451" (besides the +19 cubic inches) is you use the 2.20 chevy rod with .990 pin. It's a cheap, lightweight and plentiful part. This also opens up more possibilities when choosing a piston.

The benefit of rod ratio has been a hotly debated subject for years. Lingenfelter did an exhaustive study years ago and found very little to be gained from any particular rod ratio, certainly not enough to be worth basing your engine build on. IMO you should pick your rods based on strength, weight, availability, and placing the pin high enough on the piston that it's light but still has room for a good ring package.
 
The main advantage of the 470" over the 451" (besides the +19 cubic inches) is you use the 2.20 chevy rod with .990 pin. It's a cheap, lightweight and plentiful part. This also opens up more possibilities when choosing a piston.

The benefit of rod ratio has been a hotly debated subject for years. Lingenfelter did an exhaustive study years ago and found very little to be gained from any particular rod ratio, certainly not enough to be worth basing your engine build on. IMO you should pick your rods based on strength, weight, availability, and placing the pin high enough on the piston that it's light but still has room for a good ring package.

But not too high a pin height that piston stability is compromised.
 
But not too high a pin height that piston stability is compromised.

Yeah true...but I think if you're leaving plenty of room for a good ring package you're also not gonna leave it short enough to cause that. I think the 500 and 512 B motors are getting into that territory where the rings are tight and the piston is really short...I think the 470" is a good compromise.
 
Cripes....we were stopping in at Arias Pistons over by Fontana back in the 80's, during breaks in racing at the finals in Pomona, just to pick up their " new" off the shelf Arias S7751 Pistons for the 451 combos we were already running back then.
Up until that time....for years
we'd been getting them custom built over at Venolia !

Anyways...it was a good article when I first saw it about 10 years ago, and good to see it's out there for posterity.....could use a few updates we knew back 40 years ago though...like;
* Main Caps are the same outer dimension...just a smaller "hole" for the Crank in the 400 Cap = Stronger with Detroit wonder iron.
* Cylinder wall thickness will usually sonic test pretty much the same from a B 400 to an RB 440....but the "unsupported" length of the wall is much shorter on the lowdeck 400 Blocks = Stronger
* It could also get into some prevention of #4 Main Cap walk ??...nobody wants to hear this, but we always found the stock 440 1053 Steel Cranks much easier on the mains, especially #4, because of their ability to " winde" and " un-winde" down their length as they spin....as opposed to todays 4340 " NON Twist" Cranks which tend to transfer and hammer the Block harder, and they were plenty strong enough for our 700hp stuff back in the day(all we had were iron heads)

Good article.
 
* Main Caps are the same outer dimension...just a smaller "hole" for the Crank in the 400 Cap = Stronger with Detroit wonder iron.
* Cylinder wall thickness will usually sonic test pretty much the same from a B 400 to an RB 440....but the "unsupported" length of the wall is much shorter on the lowdeck 400 Blocks = Stronger
* It could also get into some prevention of #4 Main Cap walk ??...nobody wants to hear this, but we always found the stock 440 1053 Steel Cranks much easier on the mains, especially #4, because of their ability to " winde" and " un-winde" down their length as they spin....as opposed to todays 4340 " NON Twist" Cranks which tend to transfer and hammer the Block harder, and they were plenty strong enough for our 700hp stuff back in the day.

Interesting stuff....Thanks....
 
Just curious, what would be typical numbers for peak HP/TQ from a fairly modest 451 build for street/strip use and rough cost to get there?

Hard to be specific I know, just a ballpark.
 
Your "fairly modest" definition would be helpful.

I built what I thought was a "race" 451 until I built a race 451 and the "race" motor is now "fairly modest".

Cost of what? Turn key engine? Or.......Parts (so many options)? Machining? Labor? Dyno tested?
 
Starting with a junkyard block, and 440 crank, shooting for say 500 HP.
Lets say for just a long block. Just curious what typical machining and parts might add up to. For the heads, whatever it would take to get there.
 
The 383 on my stand is going 489". 4.25 stroke, B wedge rod. This is to be a low rpm torquey street engine as the 383 is just shy of 500hp. It has a higher rpm requirement and peaky power curves and the owner wants to be more drive-able.

In terms of budget - if you're starting with a known good (sonic tested, magged, etc)core block and expecting 500-550hp - I budget about $18/hp, not including dyno time if you want it. Somewhere around $9500 give or take. 400-500hp about $15/hp.

This 489 project has an assumed-ok 80% machined block, he got a screaming deal on some heads, and he's got the intake carb, etc. so it will end up being about $4K to convert it.
 
Thanks. I like the $/HP approach. If I ever get my Dart put together, I have a Demon project. Day-dreaming all options for a fun engine.
Big block, turbo slant.... :)
 
Thanks. I like the $/HP approach. If I ever get my Dart put together, I have a Demon project. Day-dreaming all options for a fun engine.
Big block, turbo slant.... :)

You can cut that down by $$ thousands in the long run if you invest in the required tools and learn to do the assembly yourself. Start with a low-buck nearly stock engine and take your time and triple check every step, go slow.
 
I hear ya. I have most of the tools. Could be a very enjoyable project. I'm thinking in terms of building an engine, then build the drivetrain and the car around it.
 
I disagree. Not that it's out of anyone's reach to assemble - but that it will save thousands. Most charges are parts and machining. If you're being charged four figures to assemble someone is too full of themselves. That being sais - if you haven't done a performance assembling job, and don't know how to measure, how to do the little bits that seperate "working" from "great", you are giving up some by doing it yourself. In some cases that can lead to more spending.
 
I agree with Moper. Parts and machining is where most of the cost comes from and not from the assembly. I don't want to speak for any of these engine builders on here but my experience has been that a short block will cost around $450 to assemble. That's from a good performance shop.
 
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