What to use to remove hazy in paint.

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Snake

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Well the Worst body job ever has come back to haunt me again lol :violent1:after a repaint on the left quarter he blasted it with dust,so he had to wet sand to get it out and as normal it had a little haze,he buff it out.This is like 4 years a go,just now i am noticing the haze again what can i use to remove it,i don't have a high speed polisher either ,it an eye sore, base clear. HELP.
 
Not sure how much help this is but if it was on TV back then it must have worked. My favorite part is at the 21 minute mark. If anything figure it was worth a laugh.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=71W2pzmBuCg"]Auri.flv - YouTube[/ame]
 
Snake, Your car looks amazing. Never noticed it but im sure its there. I have heard of wet sanding clear, takes awhile to do then after thats done buffing it. I wish i could help you out with it but never really done it.A patient of mine has a old plymouth and he sanded the whole car, piece buy piece. seen the before and after........looked like it was re painted.
 
Snake, Your car looks amazing. Never noticed it but im sure its there. I have heard of wet sanding clear, takes awhile to do then after thats done buffing it. I wish i could help you out with it but never really done it.A patient of mine has a old plymouth and he sanded the whole car, piece buy piece. seen the before and after........looked like it was re painted.

Ed the car was wet sanded some 4 year back just this one area that is comeing back.
 
basic overall clear gets hazy. Its cheaper so repair shops use it in bulk. Wet sand it and apply a good euro clear
 
I do not know if there would be a problem repainting down the road but smooth top polish for smooth top ranges will take haze/minor scuff marks out of clear coat and leaves a very nice shine.
 
I use this stuff, and it works great for haze and light oxidization.
Works good by hand also.
 

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Your clear is your UV protection. The more you sand on it and the thinner it gets the greater the risk of it failing.

By failing, I mean it will physically let go of the base coat and start pealing off.

To me, it sounds like the clear is below it's minimum thickness in that area and failing. Clear should not haze over in one isolated area like that.
 
I use this stuff, and it works great for haze and light oxidization.
Works good by hand also.

Thankssssssssssssssss bro that is what i was after the paint is 4 years old and the has come back i mean its hard to see it but i know its there.
 
Do you know what kind of paint and clear it is? I used PPG 2021 on mine in 2000. I never cut and buffed it. It still looks great. I have buffed cars and a haze has come back.
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Use polish, not compound on a foam pad on a buffer. The haze is from not finishing the buff job.
 
I had my daily cut polished after it was painted to remove some drips and 5 years later the clear started peeling like onion skin , it is now bare base coat on all the upper surfaces , I would be very care polishing your clear coat , if it is hazy because it is thin and oxidized you will likely start losing it .
 
I had my daily cut polished after it was painted to remove some drips and 5 years later the clear started peeling like onion skin , it is now bare base coat on all the upper surfaces , I would be very care polishing your clear coat , if it is hazy because it is thin and oxidized you will likely start losing it .

They either put very little clear on it or the cut it way to much. Or it could have been cheap clear.
 
Polish is just that, polish. Compound on the other hand has various grit or cut and is done with a cloth pad. After cutting/buffing you will inevitably have swirls which are removed with a foam finish pad and finishing polish. If you can blow through paint with a finish pad and polish you are doing something very wrong.
 
Well I am confused,when the area in the quarter witch is about 5 inches and about 16 inches long was wet sanded to remove dust this was done about 4 years back,not now,he used a buffer with some kind of polish,I had bad feeling for the body man so there is no way he will not answer my call as to what he used.I polish my car once a year and that has work some what,just looking some kind of polish that is GREAT, what trailbeast sudgeated sound kind of harsh maybe not.
 
Process is wet sand if needed, cut/compound buff, polish, wax.
 
I would have the spot evaluated by a painter at a reputable shop. roccodart440 is right in the procedure but if the clear is below it's minimum thickness (which could be the cause of this problem), I would do nothing more than hand polish and wax.
 
I would have the spot evaluated by a painter at a reputable shop. roccodart440 is right in the procedure but if the clear is below it's minimum thickness (which could be the cause of this problem), I would do nothing more than hand polish and wax.

bummer to say the least.
 
For what it's worth, used both of these, first the 105 Ultra-Cut and then the Fine-Cut to remove oxidation with a buffer I got from Griot's Garage after the Dodge had been parked outside for months at a garage. I started initially with the Fine-Cut but it wasn't abrasive enough and moved up the the 105, which really did the job, and then ended by using the Fine-Cut.
 

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...........Hey Snake, was this a pr0fessional paint job or just a buddy that dabbles in the hobby.........kim.........

HE works for a well know shop in town but he did the body work on the side and then sent it were he works to have them to shoot the paint and clear.Once i saw his body work was bummed to say the least,there was a fare size dent in the left quarter he missed,so he redid that than i got it back with dust in the area he redid so had come to the house to wet sand it out and buff weich turned out fine.After that i wash my hands with this guy.:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
 
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