Picking the "right" 383 block? Different styles?

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kythri

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Brief background:

My brother recently picked up a '67 Dart 383 GTS, missing the engine and trans.

My father just recently recovered his bought-new '71 Duster 340, but the original engine/transmission is long since gone, with a 360 in it's place.

On either car, it's been decided that finding the original numbers-matched block would be great, but highly unlikely, and it's not going to be something that's going to hold up getting the appropriate model engine in either of them.

That being said - is there a specific era of block for either of these that we should be looking for? I've been keeping my eye open and trying to help both of them find a suitable engine/trans, and seem to remember reading somewhere that a certain year range was required for both of these - though, for the life of me, I can't find that reference.

Supposedly, a newer 383 wouldn't fit the Dart, but I don't know if that also held to the Duster and a 340.

Is this even remotely accurate, or will any 383 or 340 fit their respective cars?
 
I put a 71 440 from a 71 polara in my 72 duster.

i imagine any 383 will fit, but I think I do remember something about a machining mod that the factory did to the drivers side engine mount area on 383 cars.
 
I put a 71 440 from a 71 polara in my 72 duster.

i imagine any 383 will fit, but I think I do remember something about a machining mod that the factory did to the drivers side engine mount area on 383 cars.

I have heard the same that the engine is mounted from the left front corner, sure someone with real information can assist. I have a 413 out of a 65 300 with the provisions for this mount style, interesting enough the 413 is a 68 date code warranty block! I can take pics of the mount if you need.
 
Most any 383 should work[on gts 383 dart] with the right mounts and drill and tap the 2 bosses on front of block for correct motor mounts,some already have it,also would need to hunt up or buy repro exh manifolds for that paticular engine and yr,am sure there are some other manifolds that will work,same with the 340 they all should interchange no prob with correct mounts and exhausts...there have been some parts and correct items that you are looking for posted here in recent past or place a wanted ad for parts you need and someone will help you out,may have to be a little patient but usually you will find them...
 
here is what you are looking for. drivers side is the difference. notice rear ear is milled off.
 

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You don't need anything special as far as a block for either car. You can get aftermarket mounts to make it happen regardless which block you find. Finding an a body specific 383 block is gonna be difficult, plus when you find it, some idiot will think it's worth its weight in gold. Which it's not.
 
67 blocks do not have a vin stamp on them, but the a-body block does have the rear mount ground down also the 2 bolts in the front need to be there, if a P/S car they are there and drilled out already - as pictured above. So for the 67 just look for a block cast 3 to 6 months before the cars scheduled production date, and grind down the left rear mount tab, if you want to be anal about it. Any 383 will work otherwise just keep it easy and find one with the two holes drilled in the front of the block for the left engine mount (pretty common) to find.

On both engines you want to verify "core shift" or lack there of to define that -search this site- there is a lot of information here on this.
 
67 blocks do not have a vin stamp on them, but the a-body block does have the rear mount ground down also the 2 bolts in the front need to be there, if a P/S car they are there and drilled out already - as pictured above. So for the 67 just look for a block cast 3 to 6 months before the cars scheduled production date, and grind down the left rear mount tab, if you want to be anal about it. Any 383 will work otherwise just keep it easy and find one with the two holes drilled in the front of the block for the left engine mount (pretty common) to find.

On both engines you want to verify "core shift" or lack there of to define that -search this site- there is a lot of information here on this.


x2.
All you really need is an earlier block. IIRC '69 and older have the front mount provisions drilled and tapped. The later ones have the bosses but not drilled or tapped. All you need to do is buzz off the rear driver's side ear and once it's painted it will be hard to tell it's not an A body specific block.
 
ive seen mid 60's c-body 383's with the front holes tapped already. Those should be cheap and able to be found still.

I'm not one to care about matching numbers. an incorrect 383 is just as incorrect as a 400, but the 400 is cheaper, easier to find, and able to do more with it when building it.

btw, i have a whole 400/727 truck setup for sale....first $300 takes the whole thing.
 
You don't need anything special as far as a block for either car. You can get aftermarket mounts to make it happen regardless which block you find. Finding an a body specific 383 block is gonna be difficult, plus when you find it, some idiot will think it's worth its weight in gold. Which it's not.

This.
 
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