Talk me into Fenderwell Headers

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roughidle

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I've got mixed feelings about going with fenderwell headers. I'd like to hear from you all's about why I should go with them. My reservations lie with cutting the inner fenders and taking away from the front end stiffness, structure, etc. This car is to be street/strip driven with 75% street time. How do I handle running the exhaust under the car and out back since I'm using frame ties? Wouldn't this cause the pipes to be run lower to the ground than normal?

Background:
1968 Barracuda Notchback
BB Stroker Build in process
Low Deck
727 Auto
Front to Rear Frame Ties
Mini-Tub and Springs relocated
 
I'm in the same boat.
Now I'm going to tell you just do it!!!!
How was that. Did I talk you into it?
 
I like mine. 2 inch Hooker super comp,3 inch full exhaust. Easy to change plugs and starter if need be. Easy to take in and out. I've never hit the ground with them. You do need to run small tires. I use 185/65/15. My fenderwells were cut back in the 80's so keeping them was a no brainer.
 

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cuda20 ---- Do you have any additional pics showing the bay and underchassis? Specifically the cutouts in the bay and then under chassis where the pipes change direction from the collectors? I know this isn't the right time of year to be asking for pictures, but didn't know if you had more around...

rumblefish360 ---- I know. But I've got concerns about several things including tranny shifter cable, kickdown linkage, starter removeability, among general maintenance with having in the chassis headers like the tti's. I though about the Schumachers for about a half a second until I saw power numbers...

Does there need to be any structure added anywhere to make up for cutting into the inner fenders like that?
 
I've never run full fenderwell headers, just the semi chassis headers where only a few pipes dump into the fenderwells. My 71 Duster was previously cut for fenderwell headers. I don't believe, with the holes that you have to cut for fenderwells, that you are hurting the structural integrity of the car. You can always do as I'm doing and only cut what is necessary instead of the large hole they have you cut with the templates.

The exhaust and subframe connectors interference is not an issue. The exhaust pipes will run in between the drive shaft and the connectors on each side. I'd include some photos of the exhaust on my Duster, but that computer crashed and the car is long sold.

The only thing I don't care for on full fenderwell headers is your tire limitation. You are limited to a smaller tire so it will not hit the pipes. I've seen what fenderwells can do to a tire just during cam break in. Even though we kept a water hose running on my best friend's tires, it still ballooned both of them. We never made that mistake again.
 
Roughidle, what power numbers? I am considering Schumacher this year and the website claims they are just about as good as full length headers on the street. Are they stretching the truth a bit?
 
I'm definitely not as against them as I once was......probably because early on, I usually was seeing too many fenderwells cut out with what looked like a drunk and an air chisel. I think a really clean job, cut out fairly tight next to the tubes is pretty appealing now.

If I were to go with fenderwells, I was even thinking of putting some of this "pinchweld" seal along the edges of the cut metal, for a super-clean look. I know, not too close or it'll melt.......

pinchweld.jpg
 
Roughidle, what power numbers? I am considering Schumacher this year and the website claims they are just about as good as full length headers on the street. Are they stretching the truth a bit?

Same Question, been researching the Schumachers for myself, that and TTIs, I've not seen any major power drop off numbers. :coffee2:
 
Is there an advantage, when under chassis headers are readily available ? I have replaced inner fenders on an original 340 duster car and a 68 big block dart because of someone cutting them out for headers. I Never liked them and never will.
 
I heard somewhere along the lines in someone else's thread that they were only good to like 450-500 hp. Plus I was hoping to get somewhere near 2 to 2-1/8" primaries...
 
I'm not - nor will I ever be concerned with originality with this car or any car I ever build. I know some people are and that's fine. Just not for me. This car is a 318 auto on the column car.... but no longer. So I have no reservations cutting the inner fenders as long as structural integrity isn't a concern as stated above by another member. I worry about damaging them from throwback off the front tires and the front tires themselves. What's the max tires size that can be run with 2" fenderwells?
 
Here,s pics of my coated Heddman Hustlers(1 7/8)in my 66 Dart(Early-A).When I purchased these,exactly 2 months later TTi came out with underchassis 1 3/4 step headers for Early-A(go figure).Anyway I had made the cut already and had fit them to my 410 c.i stroker SB.Being coated really helps with heat and cool down times.I alsso run with a Nostalgia Race Club and these fit right in.:-D
View attachment DSCF2919.JPG

View attachment DSCF2920.JPG
 
I'm not - nor will I ever be concerned with originality with this car or any car I ever build. I know some people are and that's fine. Just not for me. This car is a 318 auto on the column car.... but no longer. So I have no reservations cutting the inner fenders as long as structural integrity isn't a concern as stated above by another member. I worry about damaging them from throwback off the front tires and the front tires themselves. What's the max tires size that can be run with 2" fenderwells?
I run 155x15in metric radials[vw] on front with centerline 4x15 in wheels with all the offset to the outside,gives me decent clearance and never had a heat issue with 2" hooker supercomps fenderwell,turns fully and no rubbing,could go with a taller tire no prob...and these headers will more than support 600+ hp...you could also wrap the headers for insulating values if you needed too,structural integrity is not an issue and they look and sound bad ***,I like them,car not currentely going but am getting another 440 ready for the street,also frame tied,narrowed rear and ss springs relocated 4" in,took out gas tank for ease of 3" exhausts to run to rear of car[alum 10 gallon fuel cell in trunk] in a 71 dart swinger...easiest headers you will ever r&r..I also relocated the MC and lines and will probably add a heat shield there but heat dissapation seems pretty quik,plugs are a snap,I also run copper exh gaskets...just my experience with mine,lucky I suppose...mine was also a /6 car and run the schumaker mounts...wouldnt change a thing
 
Perhaps oval tubing would help you get the exhaust back under the car if you went with fenderwell headers?
 
I'm not - nor will I ever be concerned with originality with this car or any car I ever build. I know some people are and that's fine. Just not for me. This car is a 318 auto on the column car.... but no longer. So I have no reservations cutting the inner fenders as long as structural integrity isn't a concern as stated above by another member. I worry about damaging them from throwback off the front tires and the front tires themselves. What's the max tires size that can be run with 2" fenderwells?

If your car has a cage just put a good set of snout bars in....will more than replace what strength is lost by cutting the sheetmetal...or perhaps fab up something like what I seen in a Mopar magazine not to long ago....it was a triangular brace between the upper shock mount and the firewall....just make sure they clear the headers obviously....
 
I have a set of fenderwells made by tubular parts automotive. These route only three of the tubes through the fender and one under the chassis and then out to the collector outboard of the frame channels. With only three tubes in the fenderwell tire clearance is greatly improved. I am not sure if they are still made or not. Company was in NJ. I sold my hooker 2" supercomps because of tire clearance. They never even made it on the car. I was going to use 13/4" b body headers and modify the drivers side to fit but found the tubular parts automotive ones used.
 
I have a set of fenderwells made by tubular parts automotive. These route only three of the tubes through the fender and one under the chassis and then out to the collector outboard of the frame channels. With only three tubes in the fenderwell tire clearance is greatly improved. I am not sure if they are still made or not. Company was in NJ. I sold my hooker 2" supercomps because of tire clearance. They never even made it on the car. I was going to use 13/4" b body headers and modify the drivers side to fit but found the tubular parts automotive ones used.
Proper offset on front rims,made my tire/header clearance with no rubbing.
 
My reason is I don't want to pack 8" of **** into a 4" hole. I want the ability to work on my car with headers in place if possible...that's why I'm trying to stray from the tti's...
 
My reason is I don't want to pack 8" of **** into a 4" hole. I want the ability to work on my car with headers in place if possible...that's why I'm trying to stray from the tti's...

Keep the manifolds then. Why dick with headers? Are you a drag strip hero?
 
I would never use fenderwell headers on a street car, they just plain look like ****, they are a cheap alternative to using the right parts, but its your car so do as you will. Thats my 2 cents.
 
If you are going to race it, they out flow any other type of headers because they have fewer bends. If it's not a race car, I wouldn't do it. But I am not you.
 
Keep the manifolds then. Why dick with headers? Are you a drag strip hero?

Hero? No. However, why are we all here? Is everyone that wrenches on their cars heros? No. We want to put a smile on our faces when we punch the pedal. These are the kinds of comments that drive me to stay in my garage and away from the computer. Why the hell would I build a big block stroker and throw restrictive manifolds on it? Really? Go back to trying to be a hero if that's what youre after and I'll go back to doing what I love; building the car I want. My car is getting a set of headers. Inboard or outboard. :finga:

If anyone else would like to support or deny my claims please do so and get me back on topic. This site has given me many ideas and technical help. I'd like to continue that.
 
It's not restrictive if you don't use everything it has in the first place. It's your headache to deal with. Not mine, I don't care either way, just saying.
 
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