steering shaft help.

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mcat

mcat

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i am getting my *** kicked getting my shaft to clear the valve cover.
i have everything not necessary cut off all the way flush to the firewall.
can i get some pics of what other people have?
thanks...
 
What mounts are you using? What year A-Body. I BELIEVE (Not entirely sure) that fitting a Gen III Hemi into an early A is more difficult.

Post some pics, I'd like to see the interference.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
i have a 68 barracuda, i have a hemidenny k member. i made my mounts.
the engine is set in the middle of as high as it will go, and as low as it will go. and is centered left to right. i have the motor about 3/8 higher on the left to try to help clear. some of my issue is that i have 09 eagle heads,on an 06 block, they are taller.
i do think i have it figured out now...i hope!
 
I "Believe" that the motor needs to offset towards the passenger side approximately 1.5"

This article over at Big Block Dart has a good explanation. I do know that even though these new Hemis are only 345 Cubic Inches, they are quite wide which makes slipping them into an A-Body a bit of a challenge.

http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/tips.shtml

Hope it helps,

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
there is only about 3/4 inch between head and inner fender, no way will it move 1.5"
and if it is not centered, the alternator will not fit..
 
Talk to Denny but yes the motor needs to be offset to the passenger side about an inch. The alternator fits once you cut the pinch weld and grind the frame rail down. This must be a car engine. Some people have converted to Jeep 6.1L alternator mount as well to help with the clearence.

I'll try and find more info and post it tonight.

Riddler

EDIT - Links.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=202231&highlight=alternator+frame

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=200438&highlight=alternator+frame

Picture of the cutting:
img0007tv.jpg
 
im pretty sure an extra $35 universal in the steering shaft will save a lot of cutting and notching to make a GENIII fit in an a body and the engine will be centered too.
 
mcat said:
im pretty sure an extra $35 universal in the steering shaft will save a lot of cutting and notching to make a GENIII fit in an a body and the engine will be centered too.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you answered your own question.....
 
So now you're off center in the trans tunnel too. Or are you gonna just bolt it up to the stock trans mount for a cockeyed setup?
 
The drive line is supposed to be offset to the right.
 
I'm glad I decided against this swap. Too many headaches as it is.
 
The rear offset isn't the same factor. That is a wheel base stagger for thrust angle. Rear offset in drive line offset would be like Ford and others have one axle shorter than the other where the engine is centered in the bay.
Any drive line offset is related to the life of universal joints as much as anything else no matter what it is, power takeoffs included.
 
The trans tunnel is offset to the right, I'm well aware of this, so with the engine centered nice and neat in the engine bay he has effectively screwed himself with the rest of the drivetrain. Maybe you guys missed my sarcasm in my first comment. He is fighting his steering column because he is centering the engine.
 
your sarcasm was picked up...
obviously you have this entire swap thing figured out.. good for you.
making a new trans mount is still easier than all the other cutting/welding required to offset.
 
ok fella's for those of you interested, when i got my hemi denny kframe, i met Denny to pick it up. that is where my issue started. while Denny was going over the install , he told me the motor gets offset to the left 1.5, yes he said left... he followed that up by saying that will let the alternator clear the frame rail. so the entire time i was mocking up MMounts there was no way it was going to the left 1.5.
the trans was bolted in place, and to the motor,so i was satisfied with just getting it centered. now the mounts are finished and welded in place, the left rear corner of the VC hits the steering shaft.
being so focused on the steering shaft, i never even thought of the trans.
well come to find out that moving the motor to the left to get it centered in front, that cocked the trans . after taking out the trans mount bolts, the trans relcated itself to the right. that moved the back of the motor to the right. that let the VC clear the shaft.. now the motor is centered in the engine bay the trans is setting right of center. but everything fits, everything clears. and the drive shaft wont hit anything, and the universal will make up the offset in the drive line..
now i just have to mod the trans cross member...
 
Those who have put this engine setup in stock K members have notched that frame rail or relocated the alternator. I don't know why a aftermarket K would make a difference in drive line angle.
 
RedFish said:
Those who have put this engine setup in stock K members have notched that frame rail or relocated the alternator. I don't know why a aftermarket K would make a difference in drive line angle.
Click to expand...
i am pretty sure Denny made an honest mistake. and who was i to argue!
now i know...
 
These suckers are a tight fit. On my swap, at this very moment, the steering shaft is touching the valve cover bolt rubber, the other valve cover is touching the passenger side fender (trimmed down the valve cover and clearance the inner fender), and the alternator is touching the fender (though the frame rail next to the alternator is GTG), and the #1 header tube is sitting on the Borgeson box.

Once the TTI v. Borgeson issue is fixed, I'll go back to having ~sub 1/4" clearance at all points.

Point being, these things fit very tight, with little to no room for error when positioning the motor. They're significantly wider than an LA motor.
 
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