Massive oil leaks.

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i agree 100%



LOL Steve, only you bud lol

LOL, hey Lance how you been??

Well...what did you expect? It started out with some clown rolling down the highway with smoke rolling out from under the hood. Then it progressed. Still no details on the exact fix.

Cheech n Chong...."Up in Smoke"

Id like to know how the problem was fixed without using a wrench??
For me if I spent $13k on an engine I would like to know the plan throughout the whole build and communicate with the builder. I dunno if the PCV is needed or not(differing opinions here too) BUT I would sure know ahead of time and NOT come here bashing a builder after the leak/fiasco...if it was a rod knock would you still have driven the 20 miles??
 
Some Funny guys on here. Here's the update after some long hours on this mess. I added another breather and leaking has subsided but damage is done. I don't notice a difference with PVC or just open breather but either is better than nothing. The valley pan seal is blown and leaking from front and back. I hope that's all but very tough to tell at this point. I still don't know what oil pump I have. The builder has not responded. As far as the builder goes he is a legit old school big HP guy that is in the twilight of his career. I am more than tolerant of his mistakes that he has made in the past and there have been many but I am loyal to the small businessman in America as long as they do the right thing. Yesterday was a frustrating day because I told the builder it needed the crankcase ventilation beforehand as we have been down this road before. This is my 3rd engine bought and built by this builder with $25k in business. That doesn't include the $10k in referrals I have given him. He knows horse power and I have chosen to use him solely as a mechanism to support small business. Mazzolini is the Mopar guy in my area but I'm a loyal guy. I could give you all the ins and outs of my experience with him but don't have the time or interest. Hopefully he helps me get out of this mess and I will report that he made good on his error. I use this site for info mostly. Occasionally I offer opinions but I'm not that car savvy compared to most so I keep it quiet unless I feel real strongly about a subject. . Anyone that has followed my cars here would know I have used a famous ford builder and bragged about the results of HP. This site used to be a pretty solid forum for quick info when having a major problem but I think it's become quite a sewing circle. I guess it's like a Facebook thing for some of you. This is my only internet social media site and will be the last. This original post was to get thoughts and opinions on 2 issues. 1. Oil pressure 2. Crankcase ventilation. Some were able to stick to that and others decided to make it a pissing contest. The site has some very smart Mopar experts surrounded by some real sewing circle clan. I will continue to use this site for info when needed but this will be my final post. Good luck.
 
Well whooptydeediddlydoodoo.
 
I'm going to repeat what my drill Sergeant told us "dufflebags" on day one, years ago. (Warning: Language)

"Do I offend you? GOOD! That means I'm doing my job."
"If you don't like harsh criticism from doing something stupid or arguing with common logic. Or even take advice from someone who's been around the block awhile. Then maybe you should walk out that door and don't come back until you take that pretty little ribbon off your dick and hardened you're ***hole a bit!"

Sorry, but to me you gotta have thick skin, and not sit there and argue with sound advice. I've dealt with many people like this, and it is a big pet peeve of mine, especially since being an NCO.
 
Hey wazoo we had a fresh 340 that blew oil out the dipstick tube and both moroso breathers when you revved the motor to 5500rpm it would blow the steel breather out and bounce it off the underside of the hood-frickin oil everywhere.engine builder said drive it break in the rings when oil started dripping off the grill we yanked the motor and found 2 broken 2cnd rings on a motor with less than 100miles.he blamed it on detonation,but it was never right ever.i think they were busted upon installation.by the way his idea of making it right was a new cheap set of mr.gasket rings and a pair of 8553pt head gaskets.
 
I use this site for info mostly. Occasionally I offer opinions but I'm not that car savvy compared to most so I keep it quiet unless I feel real strongly about a subject.

The site has some very smart Mopar experts surrounded by some real sewing circle clan.

I will continue to use this site for info when needed but this will be my final post. Good luck.


The problem was you started bashing and name calling some of the people trying to help you.

When people try to help you, and then you start to insult them and call them names, what do you expect? :wack:

Your attitude reflects back at you. If you treat people with respect and dignity, they will give it back to you. If you treat them to insults and knock them...... :finga:

Your insulting comments were referred to the mods and then deleted. That is not tolerated here. :evil3:

If you would have "checked your attitude at the door" and not insulted anybody, then this thread would not have turned out the way it did. All we ask is for you to help us help you. Try some of our suggestions, and report back. We will try to help until the problem is solved. By posting back with your findings and ultimate fix, this can be used as a reference for others who may have the same problem later. If you don't report back, nobody knows what your problem really was, and the thread is useless. Nobody learns anything.

You don't poke a lion with a stick, then try to pet him....
 
Wazoo - If the gaskets were leaking (not the front crank seal, rear main, etc) then they will always leak until changed. Seals can have oil pushed by them and still work - gaskets cannot.
A personal note - the guys here have spent years trying to help each other and "the public". Me included. Don't make things personal and don't take things personal on a public forum. That's true for any internet forum. If you have a problem due to your builder - talk to him privately and respectfully and see what he does/says. The money went to him and thus so does the responsibility to respond professionally and satisfy his customer. If you've had that long term business relationship I have to believe he'll make efforts on your behalf provided there's respect in both parties.
 
90% of the new motors I see pissing oil out of every seal/ gasket or the stick are either only runnung 1 breather or none. All of them resolved the problem(if caught soon enough) by installing some sort of Positive Crankcase Ventalation system on it. Either a conventional PCV valve setup or moroso Vac-U-Pan kit or a vacuum pump, but something has to create negative pressure in the crankcase for everything to seal properly. 2 breathers won't create negative pressure & will likely still leak.

I have a beer that that guy will not show up for a run against Mad Dart even if he internets that he will, like he already did.

This guy is lucky he didn't bow up the valley cover. Must be a cast Indy one. This guy was not so lucky:

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=8208979&an=0&page=6#Post8208979

I was gonna use 2 breathers like my 416 has (and it works just fine that way - they dumped down BY the headers and didn't make oil) on the 540 but after some deliberation, and getting a new vac pump on the KOS 499 that solved the issues I was having with the 16 yr kludge that was on it, I just transferred the vac system to the 540. That is except for the pop off valve or whatever that $150 thing is called. It is screwed into a spot welded onto the valley plate on the 499 and we didn't provision the 540 for vac when it was built.

I wonder if too much vac is bad also? I am contemplating the real cost of not putting a relief valve on. Maybe weld a AN-12 thread nut to the valve cover and thread one of these on which will give a 90 degree angle to slicken up the vac connection on the valve cover.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aar-ac-dprfv/overview/

Why the neg about Moparts? Some very good tech in the unlawful racing forum, especially for fast BBs. Lotsa old school racers and current builders that have been around a long time and will share what they know. They even have a thread on my KOS Demon that was there before I bought the car.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=5708501
 
It's crankcase pressure below the top ring that pushess the top ring off the piston ring land, making it lose seal. That's the same reason the 2nd ring end gaps are wider now: pressure would build up between the 2nd and first rings, pushing the first ring off the ring land and losing seal. I don't think there is a problem with too much vacuum although at some popint it will want to suck the gaskets in, and the crankshaft seals are not designed to work with too much positive pressure outside the engine so you might have an issue there. It's way beyond my experience so I can't say for sure.
 
I don't run a PCV. 410 stroker with a 200 hit of NOS. I never popped my gaskets and I have ran it with 1 breather as well.

Figured you wouldn't check anything. I have never heard of anyone who would continue to drive their car with oil leaking everywhere all over the headers in the wheels under the car and all over the place. It did not get like that in 10 seconds it took some effort. I bet it looked like a choo choo train going down the road and smelled like an oil refnary and you just kept going like the energizer bunny. The problem is installation & operator error if I've ever seen it. :violent1:

You would rather throw someone under a bus than actually figure out what it is. :wack:

WTF?! It's been a couple of hours and you expect this cat to do a full blown analysis? My guess is he's got a job and he's working. Why be so hurtful and not helpful? Now you're going to pay him the full cost of his car if it's not the builder's fault? Why not just drag race him to settle this? Oh, you already went down that path.
Here's my guess: Too much crankcase pressure blew out the silicone seal on the the valley tray that the builder installed. Not going to pay for his entire car if I'm wrong but worth checking out.
 
WTF?! It's been a couple of hours and you expect this cat to do a full blown analysis? My guess is he's got a job and he's working. Why be so hurtful and not helpful?


FYI:

There were some posts in here that got a little "aggressive", that were reported, and subsequently deleted. I would be careful tuning in at the end of the thread and throwing in your 2 cents, when you don't know what the original poster said to instigate some of the negativity, as those were deleted.... :evil3:


Some of the posts that were left may now be out of context, as they were responding to some of the previous posts that had to be deleted... :pale:
 
FYI:

There were some posts in here that got a little "aggressive", that were reported, and subsequently deleted. I would be careful tuning in at the end of the thread and throwing in your 2 cents, when you don't know what the original poster said to instigate some of the negativity, as those were deleted.... :evil3:


Some of the posts that were left may now be out of context, as they were responding to some of the previous posts that had to be deleted... :pale:

Saw the one that was deleted. It was not nice. But Mad Dart's post was before Wazzoo64's deleted post. It was a tad insulting. Now he wants to pay for the entire cost of his car if it wasn't the builder's fault and drag race him. Sheesh!
 
Going from a street build to a race build, at what point does one have to start to worry about valley pan buldge? 500+ hp? Is it at a certain level of cam lift or duration?
 
What I am not getting is that if there was enouh pressure to blow out the pan seals, then that was a signifcant amount of pressure, and if at anything more than cruise throttle, it is unlikely IMO that a PVC would compenste for THAT much crankcase pressure. OR, there is something not right in the intake area....intake not machined to match heads, etc. I think there is something else going on inside the engine that is not right.

And, we don't know how the owner treated the engine out of the installer's shop. It coulda just blown something due to a mistake in assembly or being overused too much, too soon. I doubt we will ever get any detail on that. Time to move on .....
 
Just noticed. Look at the engine pic on page one of this awesome thread. There are no hold-downs on the valley tray, just bolts. If that's where the seal broke, I'd bet the cost of this entire build* that that's at least part of the the problem.

*=not.
 
Just noticed. Look at the engine pic on page one of this awesome thread. There are no hold-downs on the valley tray, just bolts. If that's where the seal broke, I'd bet the cost of this entire build* that that's at least part of the the problem.

*=not.

I agree. I think we have a winner.
 

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A-lotta drama over an oil leak...... :eek:ops:

I after reading this I thought baby sea lions were in jeopardy...

Try pushing a couple rods out the side of your block... then you'll have an oil leak to cry about. Clean it up and get out on the road.

:burnout:
 
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