Can you buy one header?

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purplehazenils

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My 69 dart came with flowtech headers, after endless road scraping and exhaust leaks I decided to rebuild them. Right side is finished with great clearence but I have now learned that the engine has to be lifted for the left side, this made me lose all motivation.
So back to the question, anyone know if you can buy headers singly? Preferably short ones or tti? Thanks as usual!
 
Flowtech headers are junk......
But then again, they were originally designed for b and e-bodies, so that's why they don't fit or work well with a-bodies unless you have manual steering and a jacked up rear end and front end.
I found that out too late.
Bite the bullet and buy some TTI's or Doug's, and your problem is solved........
 
Thanks for the help, unfortunately while im 19 and studying buying a full set of dougs or tti`s isnt an option, since one side is already done it looks like im off to the garage again :)
 
Hedman sells a shorty header that will fit your car that doesn't cost 800 bucks. I think they are around 300, but I don't know what it would cost to ship them your way.
 
Hedman sells a shorty header that will fit your car that doesn't cost 800 bucks. I think they are around 300, but I don't know what it would cost to ship them your way.

Thanks! But I changed my mind about getting short ones, did some reading and it seems they arent much better than stock manifolds. Gonna work some more on the other header, but might have to resort to these.
 
Thanks! But I changed my mind about getting short ones, did some reading and it seems they arent much better than stock manifolds. Gonna work some more on the other header, but might have to resort to these.

I don't know where you got that information, but it's wrong. Believe what you want. While there is some difference, you'll never know it on a street car.
 
If you've got a friend/coworker/teacher with a Mandrel Bender, have some new tubes bent up to replace the ones you need to fix.

Or weld in sections of pipe/tube to return the current headers back to their original layout. You've probably got 1-5/8" Headers, right? A stick (roughly 12') of 1-5/8" exhaust pipe is dirt cheap, even a half-stick would probably be more than you need to fix your header.
 
I don't know where you got that information, but it's wrong. Believe what you want. While there is some difference, you'll never know it on a street car.

Really? I read that short ones generally give less power especially mid and high range and cause heigher engine bay temps. Have you got a set?
 
Really? I read that short ones generally give less power especially mid and high range and cause heigher engine bay temps. Have you got a set?

Not now but I have used them before. Are you building a race car? I've also read the Queen of England was an alien but that doesn't make it true.
 
Really? I read that short ones generally give less power especially mid and high range and cause heigher engine bay temps. Have you got a set?

i would say that short headers are more probable to make less torque at low rpm due to the shorter primary tubes.the basic on how you build full lenght headers is that the longer tubes makes more torgue while shorter tend to give more power at the top. as for the hedman shortyheaders im not fully impressed by the design,the pics i have seen have seemed liked they dump in a stupid spot and in a stupid dirrection.

you could always repair your present headers by cutting out the bad sections and welding in new sections made with universal U or J bends. im sure your local dealer will sell you plenty of hooker part#12536 #12540 #12542 these are J bends made of 1 5/8" tubing with a 2" 2½" and 4" radius for about 250sek each
 
I would give up 25 HP for increased ground clearance about as quick as you can blink an eye. Trying to get every ounce of power out of a street car is senseless when you could have something nice to drive everyday and not have to worry about knocking your headers off or spending 800 dollars on a set of long tubes. Do what you want.
 
I would give up 25 HP for increased ground clearance about as quick as you can blink an eye. Trying to get every ounce of power out of a street car is senseless when you could have something nice to drive everyday and not have to worry about knocking your headers off or spending 800 dollars on a set of long tubes. Do what you want.

the other opion is to just do the right thing and crank up the torsionbars or install taller tires so the car gets back to its intended rideheight and the problem is gone forever and with a set of headers you will gain not only those 25 hp you will more noticeable find a bunch of torque at low rpm that is worth everything on the street.
 
Hijack!! How bout if I need one right hand Stock Ex manifold for a 68 383 Dart?? Mines got cracks. How best to weld/repair??
 
You can buy one header. If you pay enough, they may even throw in the other one for free....
 
I hAVE THE HEADMAN TIGHT TUBES , they make as much or more than manifolds and cheapo headers , only 7 less than TTI on that mopar muscle test above . Had hooker headers on before the headman tight tubes and car goes better with the headman headers . I have the coated ones and underhood temps are no different than any other headers , have yet to burn plug wires and I have about 8000 miles on the headers
Summit used to sell only one header , not sure they still do though .
 
^No, street torque is all about 1,000 to 3,500rpm. Manifolds are perfect for this. Headers are all about high RPM scavenging. Quit trying to half-*** it, save your money take your chances. These cars are toys, and you've got to pay to play.

Supporting documents you want?

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...0307_mopar_crate_engine_exhaust/photo_17.html

Bam. Have a great day.

1000rpm? are you serious? most any torque converter made for anything that is not a huge diesel will stall about twice than that.

Since you want documentation.
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/exhaust/9.html if thats not a big enough difference at 3500rpm i dont know what is.
 
^No, street torque is all about 1,000 to 3,500rpm. Manifolds are perfect for this. Headers are all about high RPM scavenging. Quit trying to half-*** it, save your money take your chances. These cars are toys, and you've got to pay to play.

Supporting documents you want?

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...0307_mopar_crate_engine_exhaust/photo_17.html

Bam. Have a great day.

There are several problems with that test to draw accurate supporting evidence from it for your conclusions. The first issue is the engine itself. It is a low powered engine with cam timing equaling a broom stick. At this level, the headers show the best torque output for where you drive. The top end where you rarely are show a pretty close output between them all and only a drag strip would show the differance between them.

Headers are not just for what your saying. They do indeed show power in teases across the board. There s the best bang for the buck on power output increases. Where they show themselfs best is on more powerful engines.

A good example in that test is the tti headers. They look lame on the comparing test. But we actually do know that there capable of over 500. A good bit more than the exhaust manifolds.
Be careful when pointing to a test/comparison. Not all the players are playing there best on a single engine dyno run. Increase the engine perameters for more power (11-1, solid roer @ 256 @ .050, 800 CFM carb, fully ported aluminum heads, single plane intake, etc..)
and the exhaust manifolds look lame. The regular headers perdo well and the TTI's blow everyone out of the water.

What that test, the mag did. What it said to me was, on this engine, the more expensive headers may not be worth the expense. Pick your poison. Pay your bucks.
 
1000rpm? are you serious? most any torque converter made for anything that is not a huge diesel will stall about twice than that.

Since you want documentation.
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/exhaust/9.html if thats not a big enough difference at 3500rpm i dont know what is.

Not talking about converters; I'm taking about engine operating range usage on the street day to day. Since your so sold on headers, nut up and buy some Doug's and call it a day. Not our fault you live in Sweden. :violent2:
 
Not talking about converters; I'm taking about engine operating range usage on the street day to day. Since your so sold on headers, nut up and buy some Doug's and call it a day. Not our fault you live in Sweden. :violent2:

do you have a clue about how parts work together out there in the real world?

as for what i have,i already have a set of 1 3/4" supercomps and a set of TTI 1 7/8" headers,however im not the much younger guy who started the thread looking for good advice.
 
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