1969 383 crankshafts: cast or all forged

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most 71 had cast....one year only They were not usually drilled for a speed and create a huge headache to get them drilled and to get a flywheel balanced to them.

I ran into this when I pulled a 383 from a 71 Newport. in the end it was just easier to swap the crank out with an older one and that is how I run the engine now with a 69 forged crank that was factory drilled for a 4 speed.

71 was also an odd year for the 383 because the horsepower ratings took a nose dive and there are a number of small differences. Of course 71 was the final year for them as they disappeared to be replaced by the 400 starting in 72.
 
69 383 should be forged, but if ever changed/rebuilt it could be cast 400. Do you have a casting number from the crank? That will tell you.
 
This is a 69. the casting date is 11-15-68, 24681308. What concerns me is the pad by the distributor is stamped e 383 followed by 11 252.Does the "e" designate a cast crank? I didnt think cast 383 cranks began production till 1971.
 
Mopar1us.com claims 69-71 2 barrel 383's were cast. Its going to be a street build anyway, so its not the end of the world.
 
Mopar1us.com claims 69-71 2 barrel 383's were cast. Its going to be a street build anyway, so its not the end of the world.

Are you sure 69 2 barrel would be cast?
I've got a 69 2 barrel and I'm counting on it being forged if I rebuild it.
The dampener seems to indicate it is forged. Mine has a small dampener which appears to me to be a forged dampener.
71 2 barrel being the exception to 383s with a cast crank.


http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/motor/36.html
Big Block Crankshafts Dampers
Part# Application
2658457 1958-1971 All B & RB engines
3512017 1970-1971 440 6BBL and '71 440 High Performance
3577180 1971 383 2 barrel (cast crank)
3614371 1972-1973 400 Forged Crank
3614374 1972-1973 400 Cast Crank
3614371 1972-1973 440 Standard Performance
3614372 1972-1973 440 High Performance
3577785 1974 440 Cast Crank
 
E 383 = C-67, D-68, "E-69", F-70

So from the numbers you gave E 383 is a 1969 model 383, 11 25 2 is the assembly date 11/25/68 and should proceed the engine casting date 11/15/68 which it does. The last "2" is the shift.
 
With Chrysler you really cant be sure of anything. I just got the engine minus cam, and saw the "E" on the dist. pad and hoped it wasnt the code for a cast crank, but rather 1969. Good call Rocky. Much better, thanks all!
 
If an E came after the date then we would be considering something else, but the letter before the 383 is the model year.
 
Mopar1us.com claims 69-71 2 barrel 383's were cast. Its going to be a street build anyway, so its not the end of the world.

My 69 383 2bbl came with a forged crank. Block was cast 5-69, and main/rod bearings stamped mid-69, it had never been apart.
 
...
71 was also an odd year for the 383 because the horsepower ratings took a nose dive and there are a number of small differences. Of course 71 was the final year for them as they disappeared to be replaced by the 400 starting in 72....

Everything took a dump in 71-72, it was the first year NET HP was quoted, ie. with full dress accessories, exhaust and rear wheel measurement. 71 was also a smog year too

"..in 1971 Chrysler published both gross and net HP figures for all of their engines across the board. The most common 440 V8 in their full-size cars was rated 335 gross and 220 net. That's pretty extreme, though... usually it's more like 10-20% lower. There's no reliable conversion because of huge variations in gross testing and reporting methods.."
 
If the pan is off you can tell by looking at the shape of the counter weights.
Squared off corners for cast. More of a rounded shape for forged due to the metal being hammered/ squished between shaping dies.
Also the parting line will be wider also on a forged cranke due to it went thru a
stripper die to trim while it was still hot. Cast steel cranks have a narrow
parting line. You can always tell if you know what to look for.
Forged will ring like a bell also when tapped.
 
Probably wont have the pan off, or any other disassembly for a couple of weeks. I remember the parting line ID from Don Taylors B/RB rebuilding book.
 
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