SS/B Barracuda project

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SSing

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Hello,

Well some of you will instantly understand what this thread will be all about. But it is not just about putting a Hemi in my ´68 Barracuda, its about building the car the way they where campaigned in the first couple of years, before major changes where done to suspension, body and so forth, and to day of cause it is a totally new car. So mainly the car will be build as delivered from Hurst, with the additional reinforcement wheres that where done, a period correct roll bar, and of cause engine compartment will be fun to deal with. I see a cool can, rev. limiter and so on...

I´m not a newbie, I put a Hemi in a ´68 GTS in 1978, but saying that I am also humble before the in deep knowledge some of you guys have about this factory super shockers... and that I hope you want to share with me... And yes I gone through Jim Schilds book a number of times through the years...:)...remember all I had where a couple of articles in car magazines and of cause DC Bullentin #28, (half a written side) when I build the Dart...

If this thread start to roll, I will keep asking questions well ahead of the actual issue occur, well just to keep it rolling...

I hope you will take the time, answering my questions, and help me make my dream come true.

And yes please use Your fantasy, since I`m writing in a foreign language.

First out.
UNDERCARRIAGE:

Other than torque boxes that already where done, did the racers do any other reinforcements to the undercarriage? Floor pan above pinion snubber? Where spring front hanger where bolted to the frame?
Subeframe connectors??? Came later I hope...

Thank You
Stefan
 

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I personally am of no help, but I look forward to watching the build. over the years I have read of these cars in the mags, but I've forgot most of what I ever knew!!!!! i'm sure there will be knowledge people on here that can help. one of the shock towers being cut out and flipped over???
your English is probably better than most of us " natives"!!! LOL
 
UNDERCARRIAGE: Other than torque boxes that already where done, did the racers do any other reinforcements to the undercarriage? Floor pan above pinion snubber? Where spring front hanger where bolted to the frame? Subeframe connectors??? Came later I hope... Thank You Stefan

If I am understanding you correctly, you would rather not install frame connectors because racers didn't start installing them until later years? If that is the case, I think that you would want to reconsider, especially if you are just starting to build the car.


Regardless of period correctness, you would be well advised to install frame connectors.
 
Glad to read of your project plans and thanks for making the effort to share it with us all here. I will be staying tuned to your build and help with any information I have come across that may
help. Hope there are others here who have researched these cars and will join in also.
This should be a very cool build thread.
I have saved some pictures of some of the special parts that were used and some of the
modifications done. Collected some of the hard to find parts also.
Looks like your ready to do your right side inner fender clearance mod for valve cover removal.
Keep the pictures and questions coming.
 
Stefan,

I've built a few Nostalgia Super Stock Hemi Barracuda Clones and a couple of B-Body NSS cars.

Please feel free to PM me any time. I will gladly help you in any way I can + provide you with build pictures.

sscuda
:glasses7:
 
SUMMERY UNDERCARRIAGE
First I want to thank you for your interest in my tread. It is encouraging…
I take it nothing was done to the undercarriage, by the racers during the ´68-69 season than…
My car is a Formula S 340 Automatic, which means no toque boxes from the factory, but I found correct looking torque boxes from RestoRicK.

As for sub frame connectors… yes… but not on this SS/B Barracuda in 1968-69 configuration.

Well I must admit I could not resist the temptation to test my BFH on the inner fender, although it´s not part of the time plan. Did it turn out ok do you think? Engine will sit 1.20” to the right, with ½” possibly ¼” spacers. To me it is more important that the engine is in correct position, than to move the engine around, just to clear the headers and front suspension. Headers Hooker 5481. But more about this later…
 

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Stefan the hooker 5481 headers are what I have for my project because
I was able to find a used set for a low price. They have 2 1/4" tubes and
from everything I have read are a terrible and difficult fit.
The hooker headers that came stock on these cars have 1 7/8" tubes
and fit without any denting of the tubes. I have seen the originals and was
suprised they were not beat with hammers. I have come across one set
of the original headers for sale and they were missing a tube. They were
also out of my price range.
If you would like some photos of the original headers let me know and I
can get them to you.
I am going to have to try the 5481s on my car and am hoping for the best but am expecting
problems. I hope it is no more than adding some dents but could be replacing tubes?
Will know more when the engine bay is ready and can do a trial fit.
It does seem every pair of used 5481 headers I come across has been beat pretty good.
And not all in the same place. To me that means that guys are not all getting their engines
sitting in the same place or hooker has consistency issues. Likely both.
If they are real bad I will end up having to make a custom set myself. This is common on
these cars as they vary a lot car to car on components used to build them.
TTI makes a good looking set but they differ from the originals and the 5481's in that they
tuck the pipes up close to the floor pan like a street header and are built to use their exhaust
system. Dont have the race header slip on collectors and don't look right at all from a vintage
perspective. So they are not a option for me. I won't put mufflers on a race hemi myself.
 
If interested.....a couple of weekends ago we remove a set of the Hooker Hemi A-body race headers on a 72 Duster. Being replaced with TTi's and a HDK coil over/ rack conversion

They are for sale and in very good shape.

Pm me and I will get you his info.

Denny
 
I personally am of no help, but I look forward to watching the build. over the years I have read of these cars in the mags, but I've forgot most of what I ever knew!!!!! i'm sure there will be knowledge people on here that can help. one of the shock towers being cut out and flipped over???
your English is probably better than most of us " natives"!!! LOL

barbee,
when I look back on the thread, I realize I didn´t answer you positive comment. I have never been active on a forum before but I´m learning. From now on I will be more careful with my followers O:) For some more pictures, you can always take a peak on my facebook BO Wannabe. Maybe i will start writing in English, now that I know you guys understand me ;)
Thank you and hope hearing from you again.
 
SUMMERY UNDERCARRIAGE First I want to thank you for your interest in my tread. It is encouraging… I take it nothing was done to the undercarriage, by the racers during the ´68-69 season than… My car is a Formula S 340 Automatic, which means no toque boxes from the factory, but I found correct looking torque boxes from RestoRicK. As for sub frame connectors… yes… but not on this SS/B Barracuda in 1968-69 configuration. Well I must admit I could not resist the temptation to test my BFH on the inner fender, although it´s not part of the time plan. Did it turn out ok do you think? Engine will sit 1.20” to the right, with ½” possibly ¼” spacers. To me it is more important that the engine is in correct position, than to move the engine around, just to clear the headers and front suspension. Headers Hooker 5481. But more about this later…

It appears you need a bigger hammer!!!!:cheers:

I prefer the more delicate approach.
 

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SUMMERY UNDERCARRIAGE
First I want to thank you for your interest in my tread. It is encouraging…
I take it nothing was done to the undercarriage, by the racers during the ´68-69 season than…
My car is a Formula S 340 Automatic, which means no toque boxes from the factory, but I found correct looking torque boxes from RestoRicK.

As for sub frame connectors… yes… but not on this SS/B Barracuda in 1968-69 configuration.

Well I must admit I could not resist the temptation to test my BFH on the inner fender, although it´s not part of the time plan. Did it turn out ok do you think? Engine will sit 1.20” to the right, with ½” possibly ¼” spacers. To me it is more important that the engine is in correct position, than to move the engine around, just to clear the headers and front suspension. Headers Hooker 5481. But more about this later…

Looks good. But really need the shock tower part moved back too.

I know that is really not enough for the new TTI headers. You need to move the shock tower reinforcement back the same amount as what you did surrounding it. I know the car they used to design the TTI headers did what you show there. And it's really too tight on the passenger valve cover and a big hassle. It works, but his was the car they made the header from. Not enough extra tolerance for other cars.
 
I personally am of no help, but I look forward to watching the build. over the years I have read of these cars in the mags, but I've forgot most of what I ever knew!!!!! i'm sure there will be knowledge people on here that can help. one of the shock towers being cut out and flipped over???
your English is probably better than most of us " natives"!!! LOL

Flipped shock towers where for 65 B-body Super Stock Hemi cars. Not 68 A-bodies.
 
It appears you need a bigger hammer!!!!:cheers:

I prefer the more delicate approach.

Yes looks good... I must tell this little story... When I build a Dart in 1978, I did this neat shaving of the shock tower, because I never believed what I read in the magazines, about them guys using a sledgehammer... I mean not in a factory, that´s ridicules... A few years later, when I realized this was the case, I was kind of... well no pleased with what I had accomplished. Off cause I could have done this hammering this time, even more crude, but for the time being this will have to do. I used Hooker 5481 than, and will do that this time to.
 
Looks good. But really need the shock tower part moved back too.

I know that is really not enough for the new TTI headers. You need to move the shock tower reinforcement back the same amount as what you did surrounding it. I know the car they used to design the TTI headers did what you show there. And it's really too tight on the passenger valve cover and a big hassle. It works, but his was the car they made the header from. Not enough extra tolerance for other cars.

Thank You... But I will as fare as possibly stick to my game plan. Witch is build as close to as the Hurst cars came, with the additional modifications done by the racers, where it was done during the first couple of years.
I will use Hooker, it worked the first time, with just the sheet metal flattened. Than again I did not use the spacer... Maybe you are right... we will see... I cover it up with epoxy, and forget about it for the time being...
 
Stefan the hooker 5481 headers are what I have for my project because
I was able to find a used set for a low price. They have 2 1/4" tubes and
from everything I have read are a terrible and difficult fit.
The hooker headers that came stock on these cars have 1 7/8" tubes
and fit without any denting of the tubes. I have seen the originals and was
suprised they were not beat with hammers. I have come across one set
of the original headers for sale and they were missing a tube. They were
also out of my price range.
If you would like some photos of the original headers let me know and I
can get them to you.

Yes interesting...pleas send a picture of the Hooker originals. Thank you.
 
Thank You... But I will as fare as possibly stick to my game plan. Witch is build as close to as the Hurst cars came, with the additional modifications done by the racers, where it was done during the first couple of years.
I will use Hooker, it worked the first time, with just the sheet metal flattened. Than again I did not use the spacer... Maybe you are right... we will see... I cover it up with epoxy, and forget about it for the time being...

I think if you look at some early pics of factory cars and pics in the Schield book the factory got that center section beat back too. They must have had an even bigger hammer.

Pic of original car here: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=6410500




This is the car that barely got the valve covers to fit with almost the same panel beating as you did.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDUcTidxlpg"]1968 Super Stock Hemi Dart from Hurst Walk Around - YouTube[/ame]

Same car, this was what Troy did and it was really too close for comfort:

attachment.php
 
I think if you look at some early pics of factory cars and pics in the Schield book the factory got that center section beat back too. They must have had an even bigger hammer.

Pic of original car here: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=6410500




This is the car that barely got the valve covers to fit with almost the same panel beating as you did.

1968 Super Stock Hemi Dart from Hurst Walk Around - YouTube

Same car, this was what Troy did and it was really too close for comfort:

attachment.php

Yes I have seen the pictures of the original cars, and figured since the hole for the shock absorber is still centered, the center section is still in place.
Thank You. Interesting but I just have to wait till K-member time...
 
Yes I have seen the pictures of the original cars, and figured since the hole for the shock absorber is still centered, the center section is still in place.
Thank You. Interesting but I just have to wait till K-member time...

I think shock hole is still in place. They just hit it with something to move/crush the curve section in there back. Maybe they heated it. Maybe they hit it with some pneumatic hammer or something.
 
These are the 1 7/8" primary headers that are original equipment on the
Hurst built cars.
They are a race header without collector flanges to bolt a exhaust system.
Some tubes are slip fit removable and have long collectors. The collectors
aim straight back rather than point towards the driveshaft like the TTI's
They also hang lower below frame rails rather than tucked up close to the floor
as the TTI's. The SS cars set high in the front which gave them the room for these
pipes and a deep sump racer added pan.
 

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Stefan, I love these cars & have built 3 myself. Having said that, Plenty here could offer you help, opinions & ideas as to what was "correct" but there was so many variances due to parts availibility you'll find that inconsistency is the one consistent thing about them. My recommendation is you get the "S/S 'cuda-Dart Authenticity guide", study it, and be prepared. You may also want to contact Gereg Fernald at "S/S & F/X" (he has a website). He lives near me & "805moparkid" here works for him. He builds quite a few repo/clone/whatever you want to call 'em for a variety of people. He even did Mr. Norm's Dart & the "phantom" S/S demon that had been inb the works at Chrysler around 1970. He's got some of the hard-to-find parts you could use & between that & his expertise you should have no problem with the project.
I have a friend who worked at the Hurst factory when these things were built & the stories he tells are interesting. No one thought these things would be as popular & successful as they are. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions. GOOD LUCK!
 
x2

great advice hemicop

why would anybody ever want such a big motor in such a small car????
 
Interesting, thank you. I thing I know how to force the upper part of the center section out wards, without alter the location of the shock mounting hole. Although it would be interesting to know how Hurst did this. Does your friend know?
And yes I had the SS-guide from day one...
 
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