Hose and Hose Clamp Basics

-

krazykuda

Well-Known Member
FABO Gold Member
How-To Section Editor
Joined
Aug 20, 2007
Messages
66,472
Reaction score
29,680
Location
Orland Park, IL
krazykuda submitted a new Article:

Hose and Hose Clamp Basics

Here's a quick thread for the newbies on hose clamps and how to properly install them.


There are two basic types of clamps, constant diameter (screw type) and constant tension (spring type).

Constant diameter clamps are the screw type that you adjust to the proper diameter with a screw driver/nut driver. Below is a picture of the constant diameter/screw clamps:


View attachment 1714987388



The second type is the constant tension or spring clamps. These are made for a certain size of hose and apply pressure to the hose for sealing. These type are better for sealing.

The "name brand" spring style clamp in the industry is the Mubea hose clamps as pictured below. I have not been able to find an aftermarket source for these, but you may find some at your local dealer, as they are used by OEM car manufacturers. There are also other companies making spring style clamps, but Mubea is very popular with OEM. Here's what the mubea clamps look like:


View attachment 1714987389






Positioning the clamp is also very important. You have to make sure that the hose goes all the way past the barb on the nipple, and make sure that it goes past the clamp. Here is a diagram showing the hose not on the nipple far enough to reach past the clamp. This is no good as it will not be able to handle as much pressure and could blow off:


View attachment 1714987390



Here's a picture of real parts showing not enough hose sticking past the clamp:


View attachment 1714987391





Here's a diagram showing the hose and clamp line to line on the edge, this is no good also as it will not hold as much pressure as if it were properly installed:


View attachment 1714987392





Here are a couple of shots of real parts showing this condition that you don't want:


View attachment 1714987393



View attachment 1714987394

Here's the way that you want to position the hose and clamps. The hose should stick slightly past the clamp by at least 1/8". This allows the hose end to flare out and this will make it much harder for the hose to slip under the clamp and blow off the nipple:


View attachment 1714987395




Here I am showing how the hose will flare after the clamp:


View attachment 1714987396





Here's what it looks like with real parts:


View attachment 1714987397





Here's where I over tightened a clamp on a loose hose to show how the end flares after the clamp:


View attachment 1714987398


The position of the clamp is also important. You want to put it just behind the barb, not on the barb, or too far away. By having the clamp just behind the ridge of the barb, it makes it harder for the hose to expand and slip off over the barb as it concentrates pressure on the back of the barb.


Here's a view to exaggerate not far enough down the hose (overlapping the barb) - NO GOOD:


View attachment 1714987399





Here's a view to exaggerate too far away from the barb:


View attachment 1714987400





Here's a better way to visualize the clamp too far away from the barb shoulder:


View attachment 1714987401





Here's showing what you want, this helps prevent the hose from expanding and slipping over the barb:


View attachment 1714987402


Read more about this article here...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
krazykuda, excellent information for someone just getting started. There should be a section on here for just basic maintenance how toos. I know we have tech archives, but like a begginers section. You post a lot of good stuff. Thank you.
 
krazykuda, excellent information for someone just getting started. There should be a section on here for just basic maintenance how toos. I know we have tech archives, but like a begginers section. You post a lot of good stuff. Thank you.


Thanks.

Sometimes when I read posts from newbies and think that there should be some basic instructions for things that some of have been doing for years and take for granted that others know. Also, as you get older and get more experience, you learn more stuff you wish that you knew back when you were their age and starting out like them/we did back in the day and refine your procedures.
 
For those who like screw type clamps with out the rubber cutting the edges or flowing through the openings in the hose you should look at ABA clamps

fullsize_1076.jpg


6595817-steve%27sengine1002.jpg
 
Nice write up Karl! A basic/minor maintenance section would be good.

PS, there is a cool thread on screw type hose clamps and using heat shrink on them to "hide" them.
 
Also, Shout out to Autodesk for the free student trial version of AutoCAD2015 that I used to make the drawings.


I get a legal free download since I am taking AutoCAD classes at the local community college.

So THANK YOU AUTODESK for the copy of AUTOCAD2015.
 
This is now posted in the How-to section. Let's not get it going sideways.... We don't want to scare away the newbies who may need this info....
 
It's a good one too Karl. A lot of us know this from years of experience.....er......uh......messin up, but it's nice to see it all in one place.
 
I'll just say, remember that if you're using "screw type" to check for tightness every once in a while. They will back off, especially after initial use.
 
Don't forget the quality of the screw type can vary. The last thing you want is to be stranded due to the failure of poor quality cheap product. Here's a general description......



I believe the EFI applications require a better quality clamp that is designed to not dig into the hose when tightened. Notice in the video the edges of the better clamps are tapered away from the hose.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This is why I prefer the sprAng clamps. They don't back off. They just keep on squeezing. They also cover more area and cut into the hose much less.
 
Springs eventually relax over time, so is there a recommended replacement time on the spring loaded clamps? I would think the screw clamps would be better for this reason since you can tighten them periodically, but I have been wrong before. :)
 
I have found that some of the newer hoses have a thinner wall than the old hoses and that the repro wire spring clamps don't clamp tight enough,



Interesting...

They are doing "cost reductions" (less material) in the aftermarket now.... :banghead:
 
Great post, I also like using the spring style clamps, The best supplier I have found for these and they are almost free. The local "pick in pull"
 
Any recommendations on the Corbin style clamps like the ones I used on the hose in the bottom of the picture? I had originally decided to use these on all my hoses until I realized how much they are a real pain in the @$$! And that is with the correct type wrench. My concern is ensuring that I have these clamps on far enough. They seem to be over the lip, but just behind it.

 
Any recommendations on the Corbin style clamps like the ones I used on the hose in the bottom of the picture? I had originally decided to use these on all my hoses until I realized how much they are a real pain in the @$$! And that is with the correct type wrench.

Your not kidding those things suck to install, even with the correct tool like you mentioned.

One thing I noticed about them when I was installing them. Is that after I opened them up to get them over the hoses, they never really returned to the original size that I started with.
 
I can just imagine how much more difficult the larger radiator hose Corbin clamps will be after the difficulty I had with these smaller clamps. I was pretty aggravated by the end because I nicked up the new paint on my engine.
 
-
Back
Top