Pump to eddy performer fuel line

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Hankrebel

Hankrebel

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71 Swinger with stock AC

Im about to start the install the install of an Eddy intake and carb. I thought I had all parts needed but discovered I am missing the fuel line from pump to carb.
The stock hard line is still present and I'm guessing its the original fuel pump.
I have the Eddy single line kit 8134 that has banjo bolt and inline filter seen here:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8134/overview/
It has a -6 AN inlet size.

Since Im guessing this is still the stock fuel pump and looking at the outlet size of 1/2 of any OEM replacements, Im in a dilema to find a suitable replacement line.
Following everyone's advice on here and trying to steer clear of any rubber lines.

I did find some small adapters for various sizes but it would be nice to find a braided or nylon line that has one end at -6 AN female and 1/2 Male.
 
1/2" is too big. I would run 3/8". And get rid of the banjo fitting. They sell a fitting for a 3/8" line to plug right into the eddy carb.

Your stock pump should be either a 5/16" or a 3/8".
 
1/2" is too big. I would run 3/8". And get rid of the banjo fitting. They sell a fitting for a 3/8" line to plug right into the eddy carb.

Your stock pump should be either a 5/16" or a 3/8".
 
If going with a stock fuel line, check your compressor clearance. Granted, mine is aftermarket and probably isn't mounted stock, but the fuel line labeled stock for an AVS interfered with my AC compressor.

If you don't want to go the hose and barb route, Edelbrock looks to have some lines designed to fit the filter (such as this http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/81233/10002/-1), but they don't go into the stock 5/16" flare fitting of the fuel pump. You will probably have to search around and see if you can find an adaptor for the stock pump or use a hose and barb setup.
 
Im a little confused now. I removed the stock hard line and it was connected to the thread connector at the pump and carb. No flare/barbs.
I did order an edelbrock line like mentioned above, but from Racemart.com for $10 cheaper.
PO installed see through fuel filter before the pump so I wont be using the inline anodized filter from Edelbrock.
 
I used the same banjo fitting and filter that you linked to in your first post.
I used -6 AN braided line down to the pump, had to add a 5/16" inverted flair, to -6AN adapter at the pump.

I can get pics later if you want.
 
Hankrebel said:
Im a little confused now. I removed the stock hard line and it was connected to the thread connector at the pump and carb. No flare/barbs.
Click to expand...

So how did you remove it? The line had flare connections from the factory.

Hankrebel said:
PO installed see through fuel filter before the pump so I wont be using the inline anodized filter from Edelbrock.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a really good thing to remove (especially if it's one the stupid glass ones) and replace with a metallic filter between the pump and the carb.
 
If you aren't using the filter in the kit, it may just be easier to find one of the fuel filters that has the varying outlet sizes and put a hose barb at the end of your Edelbrock hard line. That's how I did mine. I put a 3/8" barb at the end of the line and a 3/8" outlet on the fuel filter. The filter inlet is a 5/16" barb, so you can run hose from the stock metal line to the filter and then hose from the filter to the Edelbrock hard line.

If you've decided not to use the Edelbrock filter, you may want to consider returning the kit you bought and just buying the hard inlet elbow by itself.
 
before bolting the manifold on check that the dist mount plate clears the manifold. i had to take some matil off of the manifold to clear the dist mounting plate. .
 
MileHighDart - if the eddy braided fuel line with reach from carb to pump, I will ditch the hard-line with anodized filter. Besides it will stick out like a sore thumb being the only chrome item in there. I don't like chrome.

C130Chief - Both ends of the hard line had threaded fittings and unscrewed

Moe7404 - I test fitted the manifold and everything lined up pretty good so I dont think I will need to trim the plate. Is there a trick to keeping the metal seals in place while dropping the intake in? I know to ditch the cardboard seals at the front and rear and use some high temp RTV. I think some extra RTV around the front and rear water ports will help keep the metal seals in place.
 
The metal gaskets are not for use with aluminum intakes. You need to use composition intake gaskets.
 
Aluminum intake you want to use a composite gasket not the steel ones.
 
just off the top of my head to keep the dist seal on. i like permatex #2, or some grease might work. i have used permatex #2 for over 30+ years. never had it NOT work. i dont like RTV. it has silicon that is slippery and trys to move around.
 
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