safety neutral switch

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Torrance1

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Hello all
Well I've been on this site for years, and when I tried to log in today
they said I was not a member, ok no big deal, but what is the deal!!!!

Ok current problem. often now in fact everytime I try to start my 74 Swinger
it will not start.. yes I know about the NSS, and replaced it, that did not
solve the situation.
I was under the car and moved the lever that protrudes out of the tranny
case and it still did not start.. I can get the car to start
My question is this has anyone had this problem and how did you repair it?
From what I can see is I need to drop the pan at the least. I was planning on
having a trans service done soon, I guess this would be a good time to do it.
also have them install a shift kit I had bought for it..
Let me know what you think
 
go to the Starter Relay Switch...find the terminal with a G on it....pull the wire...that is the wire that comes from the NSS....run another wire from that terminal to Ground...see if it starts...

if it starts or at least cranks..then that NSS switch or wire is your problem...

Be aware once you ground that Terminal...it will crank and start in any gear.
 
Thanks Tony, never gave that a thought. was more concerned that the gear lever
was out of position. well at least its easy to check.
years ago I had lent this car to my niece so she could drive to High school
after awhile the car started having a problem starting so instead of having it fixed
they (painted the car) women. When she did not want the car any longer I went
down and picked it up and brought it home, (15) mpg highway.
but the car had the same starting problem some times she's start other tmes
had to play with the gear selector. finally one day no start, nothing, this went on
and I tried everything, went through the hanes book.. so I posted that problem
on the net, and sure enough, got a great reply with picture. Turns out this
year had a safety interlock for half the year.. it went bad.. just cut the one wire
and it has started every since... electrical is always the worst problem.
Well thanks again Tony I'll give it a try this moring... best
 
Being a 74 model, I would bet my quarter that the seatbelt interlock relay is the issue.
 
sorry RedFish
I've been driving the car for years with that removed...
Tony had it right, the starter solinoid is not working, I followed his
instructions and she started.
Autozone,, OK, what else do we have the dip (my fault) behind the counter
gave me the wrong part (wrong number)
best
 
OK I'm kinda pissed.
I went into my local autozone to get a (duralast #16116) starter relay for my
74 swinger.
they gave me a CRXX this and the 16116 are not the same part.(period)
they look the same until you notice that the center connector is not a screw down
connection, but a bayonet type. which would mean you would have to cut
the (fusible link or the resistor?) out of the wire...
They wanted $20 for the (16116) I just bought the correct one off of ebay
for $9 including shipping... yes its the same as on the car.
until it gets here, I'll just use the jumper wire to ground.
Best
This is why there are so many Americans out of work. these companies
only car about the bottom line for their investors, and wall street.
made in China, made in India, made in Malaysia, made in Indonesia
How about made in America... and all I hear from the crap in Washington is
$20hr jobs, yep right, that's that $20 minimum wage for fast food workers...
If America does not bring manufacturing back we can all kiss our ***'s good
by...
 
Hmmm I think you missed something there bud , if jumping the relay at the" G "terminal to ground enables the car to start with the key the problem is the either NSS or more likely the wiring to/from the NSS not the Relay , you are actually bypassing the NSS when you jump the G/NSS terminal to ground at the relay .
 
cannucky said:
Hmmm I think you missed something there bud , if jumping the relay at the" G "terminal to ground enables the car to start with the key the problem is the either NSS or more likely the wiring to/from the NSS not the Relay , you are actually bypassing the NSS when you jump the G/NSS terminal to ground at the relay .
Click to expand...


Good catch cannucky!! Yep, should be wiring or the neutral safety switch.
 
70aarcuda had it in his diagnostic the OP just didn't grasp it I don't think , it happens , I'm guessing the wiring because of the way it comes up from below and can get pinched or melted real easy { Guess how I learned that LOL }but those Chinese NSS 's Standard makes now are no great shakes either Eh !
 
cannucky said:
70aarcuda had it in his diagnostic the OP just didn't grasp it I don't think , it happens , I'm guessing the wiring because of the way it comes up from below and can get pinched or melted real easy { Guess how I learned that LOL }but those Chinese NSS 's Standard makes now are no great shakes either Eh !
Click to expand...

Agreed
 
Thanks guys, I did miss that, my mind is not on subject.
Tomorrow I'll do a check on the wiring see what shows up.
when I was under the car the other day i did not see melted or frayed wires.
 
pop the connector off the NSS and get a short piece of wire and a couple of clips to jump the 2 outside pins in the connector assuming it is a 3 prong switch the center pin is for the back up lights so only jump the 2 outside pins , then try to start it with the key without grounding out the solenoid , this will tell you if the harness is the problem , if it's not the harness it's the NSS , jack up the drivers side only so the fluid doesn't run out on you , unscrew the switch and check it sometimes they jam or stick .

PS usually this harness runs up and comes out between the top of the trans and the firewall so it is really hard to visually check , mine was slack and touched the header on the passenger side in a spot I couldn't see to save my life .
 
cannucky said:
pop the connector off the NSS and get a short piece of wire and a couple of clips to jump the 2 outside pins in the connector assuming it is a 3 prong switch the center pin is for the back up lights so only jump the 2 outside pins , then try to start it with the key without grounding out the solenoid , this will tell you if the harness is the problem , if it's not the harness it's the NSS , jack up the drivers side only so the fluid doesn't run out on you , unscrew the switch and check it sometimes they jam or stick .

PS usually this harness runs up and comes out between the top of the trans and the firewall so it is really hard to visually check , mine was slack and touched the header on the passenger side in a spot I couldn't see to save my life .
Click to expand...

On the 3 prong switch the 2 outer pins are for the backup lights. The center pin goes to the starter relay. If you ground it the car should start if everything else is good
 
One more thing you want to do is make sure you have a good clean solid ground strap from engine to body. If not you can have the same problem of no crank at times due to the NSS is your ground. I have seen this before.
 
Doh my little trans leak turned out to be my NSS the black insulator between the pins cracked like a spiderweb inside the connector .Cheap Standard switch .
 
Does the car crank and not start or does it not turn over at all? just wondering because I am having some similar issues.
 
It's fun watching these post take on a life of their own.
The problem is all mechanical as far as I can determine.
I went ahead and replaced both the NSS and Starter Relay.
side note I bought a new starter relay from Autozone, of course the part was
incorrect and cost $20. The correct one I bought on Ebay for under $9.00
free shipping.
Anyway. yes I can jump the ground wire from the starter relay and the car will
start. Sometimes say after sitting all night the car will turn over on the first try
but not start, I find this each and every time I start this car, but to the point
on the first try she will turn over and not start, on the second try there is nothing.
I sometimes just row the column shifter and she will start, at one time I tried
finding neutral but could not get her to start. The other day I moved the selector
in between N and D and found a spot where she would start.
She's do for a transmission service so I'm going to wait and have the shop
do any adjustments.
As to the reply earlier about the seat belt interlock. When I got the car back from
my niece they had complained about the starting, but instead of her and her Mom
having it checked and fixed, they painted the car... go figure women.
Anyway I could get the car to start for some reason, then one day in the drive way
it was dead...I racked my small brain until I posted on here or on the net
someplace and I got the reply I needed, my Haynes book did not even mention
the seat belt interlock, but the info from the net was to cut the (blue) wire
which I did and the car never had a problem starting after that.
On the subject of parts stores, in my case I wrote an email to Autozone and gve
them a large piece of my mind, that there parts listing was wrong, at least in my
case and model year Dart swinger, their substitute relay would have required me
to cut the lead off a wire and attache a different connector... not going to happen
this is the center wire that is a screw down I think it has a fusible link in the wire.
So right now the car still has a starting problem and I do think it's mechanical.
sorry for being long winded, and jumping around a little. as thanks for all your
inputs...
 
Torrance00 said:
On the subject of parts stores, in my case I wrote an email to Autozone and gve
them a large piece of my mind, that there parts listing was wrong, at least in my
case and model year Dart swinger, their substitute relay .
Click to expand...

I won't defend 'th zone, but I did look this up online and it appears correct. Perhaps it was mis-boxed, or maybe you got "THAT" parts guy who doesn't know squat
 

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But "you ain't done yet." In order to "safe out" the seat belt interlock and get rid of the problem PERMANENTLY read this............

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=292463

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1969624169

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=14304

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1130649&postcount=18

What you want to do, below, is cut the two yellow wires and permanently wire them together. This IS your "start" wire

67Dart273 said:
UPDATE. Just dragged home a '74 Duster which I started to junk out. I cannot power it up, but tried to trace some of it for you I believe you need to jumper (EDIT) The yellow with the yellow/ stripe the yellow goes down to the start relay, and those two are connected to the contacts in the interlock relay

16kx4d2.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Well nice to see others have the same problem that I have had.
67Dart, that is the correct relay. #1622 I think...but they gave me a (cxxx) saying it
was a replacment.. it laked the screw down connection.. that was my problem
and I emailed them and told them so..
the second photo I have never seen.
I still have the problem. When I turn the key sometimes the car will just sit there.
I do notice a slight sound as if it was trying to get the voltage.
I sometimes just row through the gear selector say 3 or 4 times and then while in
the Park position the car will start. sometimes I just jump the ground wire.
I also just noticed that in Neutral the key will not turn off.
I am sure its the linkage but its inside the trans case. and I am not ready to
take the car in for trans service and have the linkage fixed.
sorry for not posting sooner, but I am deep into one of my other cars,
getting it back on the street... But the 74 is my daily driver...
so I must get it fixed.
best
 
Do you have the starter relay G termanale still grounded as it should start in any gear that way. Than you will not have to move the gear selector to find the sweet spot.
 
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