line lock on 73 duster ?

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silver fox

silver fox

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we've been working on a 73 duster my son got for about three year's now. it sat for year's before he got it. over these past year's we came to the conclusion it was built for street & track reverse valve trans drive shaft cage 488 gear now 323 ect. ect. there was a switch on the shifter which we took off that I see was a line lock which is what Dart 4 forte has for sale my ? is what should I look for to reinstall if I was back in 1973 it would be great to reinstall any help would be great on hooking it up again wiring ect.thank's
 
wiring in line lock?

one wire on the solenoid goes to ground the other goes to the button, the other wire on the button goes to a 12 volt source...

you can put a in line fuze if you want...
 
if I remember correctly there are two ways to wire in a line lock
you can use it to lock out the rear, this means the rear brakes will NOT engage when you get on the brake pedal
this is nice because you can do a burn out and roll out of it by leaning of off the brakes
in this case, you turn the line lock on BEFORE you get on the brake

the other way, you install the line lock on the front brake
in this case you get on the brake, THEN set the line lock (locking up the front) and when you get off the brakes the fronts are still locked so you can roast the hides
down side of this is, there is no easing off the brakes when you let off the line lock
 
The couple of times I engaged my line lock (solinoid in the front brake line) before applying the brakes,that pedal became so solid I doubt I could have had any braking at all.
 
hangn0ut said:
The couple of times I engaged my line lock (solinoid in the front brake line) before applying the brakes,that pedal became so solid I doubt I could have had any braking at all.
Click to expand...

I hate to say yer doin it wrong, but....
First you step on the brake, hard.
Then you engage the button (which is usually "M-O", or momentary-on) to energize the solenoid, and keep the button engaged. This locks the brakefluid in the line and thus the front brakes stay locked on.
Then you take your foot off the brake, still keeping the button "on". This releases the rear brakes.
This keeps the car from rolling at the start-line,with a stick-shift car.
Or allows massive burn-outs without burning up the rear shoes.heehee
This is PART II of diymirage's post above(#3)


If you apply the line-loc button first,then you are preventing brake-fluid from going out to the front system.So if you then step on the pedal, the fluid cannot move, and the pedal feels rock hard. That would be normal.And since the piston in the M/C cannot move, you would not have any brakes at all. Also normal.

If you have an M/T, the line-loc is an excellent hill-holder, making redlights at the tops of hills, no longer delicate,dangerous, balancing acts.I wired my LL to a second,dash-mounted, on-off switch.This allows me to set the front brakes for any period necessary, so I don't have to sit there with my finger on the switch, hoping it won't slip off or the finger go numb, or to suffer my pedal-jamming-leg to start shaking.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I hate to say yer doin it wrong, but....
First you step on the brake, hard.
Then you engage the button (which is usually "M-O", or momentary-on) to energize the solenoid, and keep the button engaged. This locks the brakefluid in the line and thus the front brakes stay locked on.
Then you take your foot off the brake, still keeping the button "on". This releases the rear brakes.
This keeps the car from rolling at the start-line,with a stick-shift car.
Or allows massive burn-outs without burning up the rear shoes.heehee


If you apply the line-loc button first,then you are preventing brake-fluid from going out to the front system.So if you then step on the pedal, the fluid cannot move, and the pedal feels rock hard. That would be normal.And since the piston in the M/C cannot move, you would not have any brakes at all. Also normal.
Click to expand...

looks to me that is what he said. o.p., if the solinoid is still there, just wire a hot wire running thru the momentary switch , and ground the other at the solenoid. like he said, transbrake switch maybe ?
 
lot's of info thank's my ? is if I installed the solenoid back in 73 where would I have put it & what would it look like sorry gang I wasn't thinking at the time about a line lock system on the car when we got the car just wanted to get going got stuff out of the way I did not know about,I have the switch & the light that was on the shifter, would like to reinstall, new to this can't wait for spring it's in storage now
 
AJ/FormS said:
If you apply the line-loc button first,then you are preventing brake-fluid from going out to the front system.So if you then step on the pedal, the fluid cannot move, and the pedal feels rock hard. That would be normal.And since the piston in the M/C cannot move, you would not have any brakes at all. Also normal.
Click to expand...

Mine allows fluid to the brakes when applied but not back until released.
I can hold the button down and touch the brakes and the car acts completely normal and starts slowing, then touch the pedal again and it brakes more, but it only lets go of the brakes when the lock is released.

Point is that it is not a solid stop of the fluid both ways, though I'm not sure what any benefits of that function would be.
 
I was refering to post#3,hookup in the rear brake line...
Took a car out this weekend. No linelock. Just roll thru the water and give her a little throttle. In high gear.
 

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Irwindale lets the faster cars smoke em cross the line. You would definately qualify.
 
No to sidetrack or hijack but Hangnout, how much room do you have between the tire and "fender"? How much do those tires "grow" at the top end?

Im working on a set of tubs and dont want the tire to contact the tub at speed.
 
Tubs generally clear pretty good. The lower rocker panel ahead of the tire seems to me to be where first contact occurs.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I hate to say yer doin it wrong, but....
First you step on the brake, hard.
Then you engage the button (which is usually "M-O", or momentary-on) to energize the solenoid, and keep the button engaged. This locks the brakefluid in the line and thus the front brakes stay locked on.
Then you take your foot off the brake, still keeping the button "on". This releases the rear brakes.
This keeps the car from rolling at the start-line,with a stick-shift car.
Or allows massive burn-outs without burning up the rear shoes.heehee
This is PART II of diymirage's post above(#3)


If you apply the line-loc button first,then you are preventing brake-fluid from going out to the front system.So if you then step on the pedal, the fluid cannot move, and the pedal feels rock hard. That would be normal.And since the piston in the M/C cannot move, you would not have any brakes at all. Also normal.

If you have an M/T, the line-loc is an excellent hill-holder, making redlights at the tops of hills, no longer delicate,dangerous, balancing acts.I wired my LL to a second,dash-mounted, on-off switch.This allows me to set the front brakes for any period necessary, so I don't have to sit there with my finger on the switch, hoping it won't slip off or the finger go numb, or to suffer my pedal-jamming-leg to start shaking.
Click to expand...
@Kent mosby
 
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