dual quad nitrous !!?!!

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racerkilla said:
why is that.. the single one works fine
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One will work, but fail NHRA tech as noted. Also - you have the wrong spring, in the wrong hole, on the wrong part of the throttle lever. You have the 4bbl spring too low ont he return bracket, and it should go to the stud with the throttle cable so it acts directly against the cable's pull... Not on the lever for the anti-deisel solenoid.


stroked340 said:
Much more rewarding getting it done n.a. ANYONE can make a car faster with nitrous..
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Not at all. Winning with a self-built car is most rewarding. If anyone could, it wouldn;t have the reputation you're feeding off...lol
 
moper said:
Winning with a self-built car is most rewarding.
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maybe not winning so much but this is the favorite part of my car. I have friends who have their Chevy Novas and so forth that they've taken them to shops to have the motors built and put in and tested for them and there roll cages welded in for them and pretty much everything done for them so they can go drive the car. Or I have friends that just by their cars that somebody else has put their sweat and tears into and brag about how they got it cheap. I prefer to have my car blow up or do something completely wrong and I've done it myself and let anybody else touch it. And the people I'm talking about are just old high school friends not the actual people I race with they all build their own cars.
So , agreed . ...
 
moper said:
Not at all. Winning with a self-built car is most rewarding. If anyone could, it wouldn;t have the reputation you're feeding off...lol
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I love the rewarding comment, especially when I tell those same people I'll take that car and beat your *** with your own car... LOL

I'd rather drive a 400hp car with a 200 shot than a 600hp car on the street. We'd still get to the end of the track about the same time.

Power is power regardless of method. Fear is a real byatch sometimes! :)
 
Oh boy #-o
LOL , and back to the op's original question - If he stumbled into a boat load of $$ and could buy an edelbrock dual quad nitrous kit what are the hidden parts and considerations ?
 
justinp61 said:
Personally I'd get what I had running up to snuff before I threw anything else in the mix.
of course I've already agreed with you, but how much more do you think I can squeeze out of my combination?
I'm shooting for 3 more tenths, but I'm sure someone who really knows what they're doing could get much more. Again no money, just tuning what I have - moter, suspension ect.
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j par said:
justinp61 said:
Personally I'd get what I had running up to snuff before I threw anything else in the mix.
of course I've already agreed with you, but how much more do you think I can squeeze out of my combination?
I'm shooting for 3 more tenths, but I'm sure someone who really knows what they're doing could get much more. Again no money, just tuning what I have - moter, suspension ect.
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It's ran 11.49? 410 with iron heads? Gears and weight?
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justinp61 said:
j par said:
justinp61 said:
Personally I'd get what I had running up to snuff before I threw anything else in the mix.

It's ran 11.49? 410 with iron heads? Gears and weight?
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It's ran 11.5 flat. 410 with iron heads - yes 410 gears weight before 8 point Roll bar, frame connectors, and switching from spooled 489 case 8 3/4 to dana - 2780 without me (220). that was in my street rims and tires also so about 20 pounds less on each front tire probably 10 inch rear tire. Now how much I'm not sure. If I had to guess I'd say about 3,000 Race weight
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..............The dual tunnel ram on my 470 stroker is plumbed for nos Best pass with out was 10.11............best with NOS is 9.03...............kim...........
 
j par said:
justinp61 said:
j par said:
It's ran 11.5 flat. 410 with iron heads - yes 410 gears weight before 8 point Roll bar, frame connectors, and switching from spooled 489 case 8 3/4 to dana - 2780 without me (220). that was in my street rims and tires also so about 20 pounds less on each front tire probably 10 inch rear tire. Now how much I'm not sure. If I had to guess I'd say about 3,000 Race weight
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What's your rpm at the finish line?
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j par said:
Oh boy #-o
LOL , and back to the op's original question - If he stumbled into a boat load of $$ and could buy an edelbrock dual quad nitrous kit what are the hidden parts and considerations ?
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You will need another fuel pump, regulator and all the line to hook it all up, a smaller fuel cell would be the best way to go, that way you can run good race fuel with the nitrous. A bottle warmer is a must if you want to keep any kind of useable pressure in the nitrous bottle. My first time out I did not have one, spent 30 minutes getting the bottle warmed up each pass. A blow off valve vented outside is also a good idea, I believe you need one at the track if the bottle is in drivers compartment. Not sure if a pressure gauge comes with your kit you are looking at. As far as timing goes, no cost way is to retard timing by hand, unless you have a programmable ignition box or can add a timing box, like MSD has. Also if your rpm at the stripe is already maxed out now, you will run out of gear on nitrous
 
gtsdude said:
You will need another fuel pump, regulator and all the line to hook it all up, a smaller fuel cell would be the best way to go, that way you can run good race fuel with the nitrous. A bottle warmer is a must if you want to keep any kind of useable pressure in the nitrous bottle. My first time out I did not have one, spent 30 minutes getting the bottle warmed up each pass. A blow off valve vented outside is also a good idea, I believe you need one at the track if the bottle is in drivers compartment. Not sure if a pressure gauge comes with your kit you are looking at. As far as timing goes, no cost way is to retard timing by hand, unless you have a programmable ignition box or can add a timing box, like MSD has. Also if your rpm at the stripe is already maxed out now, you will run out of gear on nitrous
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Good stuff, thank you for your time and experience. I do already run 100LL and have an extra outlet on my fuel cell I'm not using.
 
i ran a 75 hp shot. without nos, 11.77 @ 117 mph. with the 75 hp shot, 10.76 @ 128 mph.
 
j par said:
justinp61 said:
j par said:
It's ran 11.5 flat. 410 with iron heads - yes 410 gears weight before 8 point Roll bar, frame connectors, and switching from spooled 489 case 8 3/4 to dana - 2780 without me (220). that was in my street rims and tires also so about 20 pounds less on each front tire probably 10 inch rear tire. Now how much I'm not sure. If I had to guess I'd say about 3,000 Race weight
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What rpm are you shifting? How is the 60' after the ss springs compared to before? Did you loosen the front end up? Have you tried different fuels? My 434 made 30 more HP and 25 ftlbs of torque on the dyno with pump 93 over Renegade Crate 98 race gas. No jet changes, no timing changes, nothing except the gas. Plus the timing and jets were tuned for the 98.

IMO unless your iron heads are very good anything past 55-5800 rpms is just wearing out your engine. It would be interesting to see what it would do with a Victor and a 950HP.

My old 340 ran 7.24/11.60 at 3240 pounds on pump 93 and a hydraulic cam, but it had ported Edelbrocks. I think there was more in it with a better fuel system as it was laying down on the big end.

Yes, I think there is more in your car, it's just going to take a bunch of testing to find it. I don't know if there is .3 or not but with some chassis and engine tuning, experimenting with shift rpm .15 shouldn't be real hard.

I understand working with what you have and making do with what's on hand, it's what hot rodding is all about. I'm stubborn and my own worst enemy a lot of times but I learned it's easier if I listen to guys who have been down the road before. My stuff has ran pretty hard for what it is most of the time, not because of what I know. It has ran hard because I found guys who are a lot smarter than me (not hard to do) and asked lots of questions. Don't be stuck on your own ideas and too stubborn to try what someone suggests, you may be surprised what you find. The old saying, "the devil is in the details", it's true
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j par said:
ebigga67 said:
j par said:
Sorry , fell asleep last night - 28
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No problem I had a long day myself.

Going by my Moroso power speed calculator it's telling me that 6200 rpm at the stripe with a 28 inch tall tire and 4.10 rear gear puts you at 126 mph, ET in the 10.55 range. A 4.56 gear and 28 inch tall tire puts you at 6400 at the stripe and 118 mph and 11.2 et. I'm by no means an expert but going by what this calculator says you could use some more rear gear. I would skip the NOS for now and put your money into gears and chassis tuning because it sounds like you're closer to the 10's than you think.
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ebigga67 said:
j par said:
ebigga67 said:
No problem I had a long day myself.

Going by my Moroso power speed calculator it's telling me that 6200 rpm at the stripe with a 28 inch tall tire and 4.10 rear gear puts you at 126 mph, ET in the 10.55 range. A 4.56 gear and 28 inch tall tire puts you at 6400 at the stripe and 118 mph and 11.2 et. I'm by no means an expert but going by what this calculator says you could use some more rear gear. I would skip the NOS for now and put your money into gears and chassis tuning because it sounds like you're closer to the 10's than you think.
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I'm a hearin ya. But I'm also hearing if I do try some power adders I'll want the gears to go the other way? Changing gears can be a little time consuming and $$ . I'm on my 4th ( and hopefully last) rearend.
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ebigga67 said:
j par said:
ebigga67 said:
No problem I had a long day myself.

Going by my Moroso power speed calculator it's telling me that 6200 rpm at the stripe with a 28 inch tall tire and 4.10 rear gear puts you at 126 mph, ET in the 10.55 range. A 4.56 gear and 28 inch tall tire puts you at 6400 at the stripe and 118 mph and 11.2 et. I'm by no means an expert but going by what this calculator says you could use some more rear gear. I would skip the NOS for now and put your money into gears and chassis tuning because it sounds like you're closer to the 10's than you think.
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Let's look at the math (this is for all of you who want to go quicker and run faster....if that is NOT you, move along) because we have real, known numbers. Most of them. What we don't know is measured HORSEPOWER and measured WEIGHT. But what is here is a good start.

We have a 28 inch tall tire, 4.10 gears and a mile per hour of 118. We can learn a bunch from this, if we ASSume a weight of 3000 pounds.

We know (again, assuming we have established the correct weight) that the engine, by the numbers is producing about 380 HP. If the car weighs the more likely 3300 pounds, it is making about 415. My best guess is it is closer to 3300.

The second thing we can learn from the numbers is at 118 MPH, with a 4.10 gear, the RPM at the finish line is 5800 RPM. It would seem the car could use a 4.88 gear if the MPH never changes. If you can make the engine produce enough HP to pull the 4.11 gears to 6400 RPM (just for the sake of discussion here) on that same tire, the car SHOULD run 10.30's at about 130 give or take a bit. That would mean the actual horsepower was about 550. If you don't have that much horsepower, you need more gear.

Third, we can look at the Starting Line Ratio, which is simply the multiplication of first gear by the rear axle ratio. I consider anything under a 10.5:1 SLR too tall, except in cases of exceptional horsepower or ridiculously long strokes.

Again, ASSuming a 2.66 low gear and a 4.10 rear axle we get 2.66*4.10 = 10.91. That is pretty tall for a 4 inch stroke and 3000 pound plus car. If the car has a 2.44 low, that poses even tougher circumstances. That would look like 2.44*4.10 = 10.004 and that would put a pretty good strain on the clutch.

What if you have a 2.66 low and a 4.88. That would be 12.9808 and would reduce the load on the clutch on low gear.
The other option is a 3.09 low gear box. It would be this when calculated out:

3.09*4.88 = 15.0792 and that would make the car move in 60 feet.

There is room in almost ANY combination out there to look at your own numbers and see what you have. Most guys need to spend more time on chassis/gearing than they do on power adders.

It's all fun with numbers.
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1st time out this season U are doing great. fine tune stuff that is free, like timing, tire pressure, shift points, jetting, etc. my 1970 Duster with iron heads and steel bellhousing and steel bumpers and a 3 point rollbar weighs 3040# with 1 625 avs runs 11.7 at 116 with 2.5" exhaust and edelbrock muffs and 10.5" X 28" slicks. 4.060" X 3.48" , 11:1 , flat solid Comp 306s X .555" in at 107*. 340s love 107* and J or X heads tuned and custom J E pistons for quench
 
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