8.75 axles

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moparmike98

moparmike98

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So recently installed some 3.91s and a racing spool. But my issue is the oil is leaking out the axle ends and out the drums. What is causing this? When the rear wheels were on they had a little play horizontally. And the axle flange moves a little
 
If you did not go with the green bearings you will need something between the axles (a button of sorts) to allow the adjuster to preload your tapered bearings. IF it has run very long with the slack you may have ruined the axle seals.
 
If you look thru the side of the orig. diff unit, there are "nailhead"
thrust buttons held together w/a roll pin going thru the spider shaft.
you will need these or a facimile spacer so the axles can butt up
against each other to allow you to set the endplay/preload w/stock
taper style bearings.
 
When you did the swap did you just pull the axles out a little ways and let them rest? If you did you ruined the oil seals in the housing. About 3" in on both sides is an oil seal that stops differential oil from leaking out.
 
Killer6 said:
If you look thru the side of the orig. diff unit, there are "nailhead"
thrust buttons held together w/a roll pin going thru the spider shaft.
you will need these or a facimile spacer so the axles can butt up
against each other to allow you to set the endplay/preload w/stock
taper style bearings.
Click to expand...
That's true if he had the old style powerlok. If his had an open differential or newer style cone type SG it'd have a large diameter thrust block.
 
fishy68 said:
When you did the swap did you just pull the axles out a little ways and let them rest? If you did you ruined the oil seals in the housing. About 3" in on both sides is an oil seal that stops differential oil from leaking out.
Click to expand...

This. Most people don't realize the axles need to come all the way out and not left hanging in the diff.
 
Switched to the spool because when swapping gears I noticed my cone style suregrip was worn out and a buddy had a spool laying around so we put that in. But since I am running the tapered bearings it leaked because the adjuster can only tighten the one side. I am going to switch to the green bearings on Dr diff.
 
moparmike98 said:
Switched to the spool because when swapping gears I noticed my cone style suregrip was worn out and a buddy had a spool laying around so we put that in. But since I am running the tapered bearings it leaked because the adjuster can only tighten the one side. I am going to switch to the green bearings on Dr diff.
Click to expand...
That's not right. After you reinstall the center spacer, the one adjuster pushes the RH axle up against the spacer and then the squeeze continues out to the LH axle, which then stops when it reaches the LH retainer. Badaboom!

Most cone-types can be made to work again,so long as the crosspin saddle is not wallered out. It's also a good opportunity to set the preload and make it streetable again. I've only done a half dozen or so, but they are all still out there many years later.I even fixed one with the wallered out saddles.
 
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If you have the time and money to tear apart a rear end, no reason not to eliminate the problem of bearing adjuster. What a terribile design.
Green bearings or similar and never look back..............


D.
 
mycuda said:
If you have the time and money to tear apart a rear end, no reason not to eliminate the problem of bearing adjuster. What a terribile design.
Green bearings or similar and never look back..............


D.
Click to expand...
Terrible design? Most of the time the wheels bearings last forever. I know their design of a single adjuster causes the one side to be offset by about 1/4-3/8" but I wouldn't say that makes something terrible. JMHO
 
fishy68 said:
Terrible design? Most of the time the wheels bearings last forever. I know their design of a single adjuster causes the one side to be offset by about 1/4-3/8" but I wouldn't say that makes something terrible. JMHO
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I guess I should re-phrase that. Not "terrible" but more maintenance.

D.
 
My bearings were in a 69 Cuda when I bought it in about 78/79. I drove that car for 5 years, then parked it. In 1999 I reinstalled that same rear end in my FormulaS, with new grease.Since then,I have put another 125,000 miles on them. For all I know they are the original 1969 bearings. In which case they might have run for over 200,000 miles.I last added grease in 2004.
Bad design? I can't agree. Messy perhaps.................
 
Is the green bearing kit on Dr diff complete. It is significantly lower priced? Does anyone know if it needs the inner seal or does it have the o-ring? And whole different subject but what size brake pads came on the 10 inch drums was it only the 2.25
 
moparmike98 said:
Is the green bearing kit on Dr diff complete. It is significantly lower priced? Does anyone know if it needs the inner seal or does it have the o-ring? And whole different subject but what size brake pads came on the 10 inch drums was it only the 2.25
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Not sure on Dr.Diff's bearings but I'm sure Cass can tell you if you just ask. IMO you need the inner seals. The o-ring is on the outside of the green bearings which will prevent lube from seeping around the outside of the bearing and the bearings are sealed but I have seen those seals fail (in other applications but the result is the same) and let gear lube wash the grease out of the bearing ruining it and your brakes. For that reason I always install the inner seals. There are a few different widths of 10" brakes. I know of the std A-body 1-3/4 wide units plus I've seen 2-1/4" and 2-1/2" wide shoes. I think that's it but not positive.
 
FYI the Green bearings are good for drag racing purposes where there is minimal side loading as they are constructed using ball bearings not tapered bearings.......They are not for recommended for autocross or street use.....tapered roller bearings are....Now if you only drive your car a few times a year, on weekends, to car shows etc. you can get away with it....But used on a daily basis and driven hard they will soon fail versus a tapered roller bearing which will last another 100,000 + miles
 
bbrroowwnn said:
FYI the Green bearings are good for drag racing purposes where there is minimal side loading as they are constructed using ball bearings not tapered bearings.......They are not for recommended for autocross or street use.....tapered roller bearings are....Now if you only drive your car a few times a year, on weekends, to car shows etc. you can get away with it....But used on a daily basis and driven hard they will soon fail versus a tapered roller bearing which will last another 100,000 + miles
Click to expand...
Can't say I agree that they'll soon fail. After all you see them used on other axles and they last a long time. The original green bearing designed with the attached retainer gave them all a bad name but the updated version Dr diff sells uses a floating retainer and generally last a long time on the street
 
bbrroowwnn said:
FYI the Green bearings are good for drag racing purposes where there is minimal side loading as they are constructed using ball bearings not tapered bearings.......They are not for recommended for autocross or street use.....tapered roller bearings are....Now if you only drive your car a few times a year, on weekends, to car shows etc. you can get away with it....But used on a daily basis and driven hard they will soon fail versus a tapered roller bearing which will last another 100,000 + miles
Click to expand...
Really??? So how is it that Chrysler switched over to the "Green" style bearings after 1969 on all its cars? I don't see them failing all over the place. Most vehicles on the road since the late '60s (and before that in many cases) have non-adjustable ball bearings in the rear axles!
 
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