1972 swinger turbo gen 3 hemi build

kevin1969 · Nov 13, 2016

ok I sold my other set up and four door body now onto a 1972 2 door swinger. I'm running a stock 5.7 hemi with a 6.1 cam and injectors. I'm running a Fast 87mm throttle body cable driven with a EFI source maga squirt 3 gold box. I made my own hot side using ram manifolds because of the tight quarters in the A body. I switched to manual rack and pinion for clearance issues with the stock box. I have a turbonetics 72mm turbo and turbo smart wastegate all 3" with a large front mount intercooler all is still in work. Here are some pictures.

kevin1969 · Nov 13, 2016

Pics

kevin1969 · Nov 13, 2016

I used a old motor for moch ups

kevin1969 · Nov 13, 2016

The plan is to keep A/C also should work out I'll be mocking that up this week as well as the steering.

Evan Dutch · Nov 13, 2016

kevin1969 said:
I used a old motor for moch ups

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Sweet build. I hope to go turbo with my 408 eventually.

Dustert73 · Nov 13, 2016

Awesome

subcom · Nov 16, 2016

Nice! Which R&P setup are you using?

kevin1969 · Nov 16, 2016

subcom said:
Nice! Which R&P setup are you using?

R&P set up?

subcom · Nov 16, 2016

kevin1969 said:
R&P set up?

Sorry. Rack and pinion.

kevin1969 · Nov 17, 2016

subcom said:
Sorry. Rack and pinion.

Oh lol sorry mustang 2 manual going to try the flipped ball joint trick and run it front steer. We'll see how it turns out

junior636 · Jan 9, 2017

I'm doing a similar build, why didn't you just flip the manifolds forward? Where's the exhuast going to go now?

kevin1969 · Jan 9, 2017

The hemi manifolds can't be flipped like the la small blocks. You have to swap heads and wasn't to sure of possible oiling issues by doing that. Also flipped manifolds would not allow the stock accessories I have to fit this would cause a whole new set of issues. The pictures show how the exhaust is routed to the turbo.

junior636 · Jan 9, 2017

You can flip them, you just have to drill and tap the heads for the center ports. I was asking where you were going to go with the exhuast out of the turbo.

kevin1969 · Jan 10, 2017

Yes I did notice a boss to drill but was unsure, I have a junk set of heads I was going to try with but decided to go the other way because I want to run the A/C and car style intake. The down pipe will kick out the wheel well and run out that way I will post pictures when I get it mocked up. I'm doing the four link and mini tub this weekend and might work on the rest of the exhaust too.

turbofreek · Jan 11, 2017

im with junior on this one. could have just flipped the log outlet strait up to the turbo inlet. would have left room for ac as well.

kevin1969 · Jan 12, 2017

turbofreek said:
im with junior on this one. could have just flipped the log outlet strait up to the turbo inlet. would have left room for ac as well.

That's cool. But if you've built a turbo setup on a hemi in an a body post some pics the right manifold runs right into the alternator if you flip it. The other option is truck accessories this puts the alternator and compressor in the way of the intake. Then that still leaves you with getting the driver bank up to the turbo.

turbofreek · Jan 12, 2017

kevin1969 said:
That's cool. But if you've built a turbo setup on a hemi in an a body post some pics the right manifold runs right into the alternator if you flip it. The other option is truck accessories this puts the alternator and compressor in the way of the intake. Then that still leaves you with getting the driver bank up to the turbo.

because nobody uses the car front in a body swaps. most have custom covers or truck covers cut down and a relocated alt mount. i k ow there is room to run a log forward. cut the flange of and run a direct 90 upwards. i know i was gonna do this very thing behind my motor plate. but i prefer3d to no have it all cluttered up over the pass valve cover.

kevin1969 · Jan 12, 2017

turbofreek said:
because nobody uses the car front in a body swaps. most have custom covers or truck covers cut down and a relocated alt mount. i k ow there is room to run a log forward. cut the flange of and run a direct 90 upwards. i know i was gonna do this very thing behind my motor plate. but i prefer3d to no have it all cluttered up over the pass valve cover.

Well it's just my preference I guess, I don't feel there will be much difference with clutter either way there would be a pipe running up there either a down pipe or in this case a supply not to mention you still have to route your driver supply. And in my opinion which is just simply that I would rather have clutter out over the fenderwell and leave room for my charge pipe and bov. The compressor and altenator all suffed on top just is not appealing to me for by build. I'm happy with how it's coming out so far.

silverfox · Jan 12, 2017

kevin1969 · Jan 13, 2017

I did the four link tonight.

turbofreek · Jan 13, 2017

kevin1969 said:
Well it's just my preference I guess, I don't feel there will be much difference with clutter either way there would be a pipe running up there either a down pipe or in this case a supply not to mention you still have to route your driver supply. And in my opinion which is just simply that I would rather have clutter out over the fenderwell and leave room for my charge pipe and bov. The compressor and altenator all suffed on top just is not appealing to me for by build. I'm happy with how it's coming out so far.

we are all trying to fit 20lbs of crap into a 2lb bag for sure. you like it and it works for you. thats all that matters.

kevin1969 · Jan 14, 2017

Yeah that's a true statement the motor it's self is a tight fit!

kevin1969 · Jan 15, 2017

Installed a comp engineering cage in the car today. Main hoop fit nice definitely took a lot of cutting and notching to get it all right. I also put a slight bend in the back struts to clear the back seat.