Proparts/Mazzolini headers on B motor in A body.

-

ab7fh

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2005
Messages
24,312
Reaction score
2,853
Location
-
Does anyone have any experience with this combo? I just pulled my Hooker fenderwells, and test fit the Propart headers. It looks like I have quite a bit of work ahead of me to make clearance. The headers are designed for RB blocks in the A body. Just wondering if there are any "tricks" to make things easier with the low deck block.
 
Does anyone have any experience with this combo? I just pulled my Hooker fenderwells, and test fit the Propart headers. It looks like I have quite a bit of work ahead of me to make clearance. The headers are designed for RB blocks in the A body. Just wondering if there are any "tricks" to make things easier with the low deck block.

Tricks?? Run some Indy 440-1 heads.lol sorry Rick I am not much help. There was a Member named Sledgehammer on moparts a few years ago. That had a post about modding his new TTI/ Proparts headers. He had a 71 dart and was runing a low deck. But he was trying to use the new 2-1/8 inch tube headers.
 
No tricks. I'm running them (2-2 1/8 stepped) on "B" based stroker and I had no problems other than one tube just touching the cylinder head and a tube touching the pan rail. Both spots were just kissing, so a small dimple and a little grinding on the head and all was well with the world! I have pics, I'll try and dig them up tomorrow. I am now going to temper the aforementioned info with the angle of the collector issue. I'm running a GM 4L80 and the collectors ran right into the pan. The 4L80 is quite a bit larger than a TF, so I don't know if it'll be an issue or not in that application. Since I was moddling 'em anyway, I addressed the other 2 issues with relocated tubes at the same time. Hope this helps!
 
Does anyone have any experience with this combo? I just pulled my Hooker fenderwells, and test fit the Propart headers. It looks like I have quite a bit of work ahead of me to make clearance. The headers are designed for RB blocks in the A body. Just wondering if there are any "tricks" to make things easier with the low deck block.
Rick,I don't know,where you got them,awesome find... My buddy has a set,they mocked up perfectly,on the RB block... Were not you running the 440 Source heads,stock exhaust port location?.
This might help,with more replies.....
 
When I bought mine Bob Mazzolini still had a few sets in stock.

Yes, I'm still running the Stealth heads.
 
Sorry I haven't gotten the pics up yet, but the kids are off this week and getting a free minute on the computer looks to be out of the question. I'm writing this on my phone at work. Lol! I did post pics a while back, but I thing they got lost when the forum changed formats. Search me. Maybe you'll have better luck. I couldn't get 'em on my phone.
 
Well done sir! Sorry I wasn't any help finding it. The two tubes that were "massaged" have since been cut out and moved and the collectors both point straight now. I've got the engine out now and switched to Trick Flow heads with a more aggressive cam profile. The kids go back to school this week, so I'll try and mock the modded headers up and post some pics.
 
The kids go back to school this week, so I'll try and mock the modded headers up and post some pics.

Thanks I appreciate it. I've got a while before I get back to messing with the headers. Working on a fuel cell installation and rewiring the car right now.
 
Does anyone have any experience with this combo? I just pulled my Hooker fenderwells, and test fit the Propart headers. It looks like I have quite a bit of work ahead of me to make clearance. The headers are designed for RB blocks in the A body. Just wondering if there are any "tricks" to make things easier with the low deck block.
E
We just put a set of these in a 75 duster, 383 auto, eddy heads with ps, spool mount V8 k frame, Schumacher motor mounts. A few of the problems we had were passenger side #2 tube hit inner fender, had to dent between shock bolt and engine along the edge of inner fender. #4 or #6 tube hit engine block along oil pan rail. Had to dent tube for clearance. Another spot was the driver side inner tie rod, pitman arm hit, also has to dent the tube. This is only an issue on the 73 and up a cars. The early pitman arm center link will clear. We had to move the brake lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve.
Some of the bolts are very difficult to get in as well as a few of the spark plugs. The B motor is an 1" or so narrower and 3/4" lower this creates a few challenges. They are great headers, very well built, they need a little work to fit right with this combo. Follow the installation instructions and the cutout templates will get you in the ball park. Expect to spend a good day on each side.
 
E
We just put a set of these in a 75 duster, 383 auto, eddy heads with ps, spool mount V8 k frame, Schumacher motor mounts. A few of the problems we had were passenger side #2 tube hit inner fender, had to dent between shock bolt and engine along the edge of inner fender. #4 or #6 tube hit engine block along oil pan rail. Had to dent tube for clearance. Another spot was the driver side inner tie rod, pitman arm hit, also has to dent the tube. This is only an issue on the 73 and up a cars. The early pitman arm center link will clear. We had to move the brake lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve.
Some of the bolts are very difficult to get in as well as a few of the spark plugs. The B motor is an 1" or so narrower and 3/4" lower this creates a few challenges. They are great headers, very well built, they need a little work to fit right with this combo. Follow the installation instructions and the cutout templates will get you in the ball park. Expect to spend a good day on each side.

I forgot to mention one eensy weensy detail......I'm running an HDK k-frame with rack&pinion and coil-overs. Kinda opens up a bit of space between the framerails, but you can see from my older post, the issues I had with the pan rail and deck.
 
-
Back
Top