Oil puddeling on intake manifold .Factory 273 4bbl duel exhaust

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Dean3001

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High performance 273 4 bbl duel exhaust get small amount of oil in 2 of the low dips of the intake manifold near the intake bolts right under the carburetor on passenger side, ( intake shows heat , paint burned off, just above area of oiled intake bolts. Any suggestions?
 
There is a heat riser passage that runs under the intake plenum to help with cold drivability. Exhaust runs in the passage to warm the intake fuel charge. That's where the burning paint comes from. As far as the oil, it is probably coming from a leaky valve cover gasket. Because of the heat in that area, the gaskets often dry out and crack in that area first.
 
There is a heat riser passage that runs under the intake plenum to help with cold drivability. Exhaust runs in the passage to warm the intake fuel charge. That's where the burning paint comes from. As far as the oil, it is probably coming from a leaky valve cover gasket. Because of the heat in that area, the gaskets often dry out and crack in that area first.
Thank you, Dean
 
Check your intake bolts. Take one of them out and look at it. If it is saturated with oil thats your problem. The intake bolts are open to oil and will actually wick oil up onto the outside of the intake. You already know this. Either use ARP thread sealant or Permatex on the bolt threads. You can use RTV type sealant but I'm not a big fan of it getting into a engine. I just got finished installing new heads and intake to my 360 and used ARP thread sealant.

My 273 was the really bad about the oil coming around the intake bolts.
Then try new valve cover gaskets.
 
Check your intake bolts. Take one of them out and look at it. If it is saturated with oil thats your problem. The intake bolts are open to oil and will actually wick oil up onto the outside of the intake. You already know this. Either use ARP thread sealant or Permatex on the bolt threads. You can use RTV type sealant but I'm not a big fan of it getting into a engine. I just got finished installing new heads and intake to my 360 and used ARP thread sealant.

My 273 was the really bad about the oil coming around the intake bolts.
Then try new valve cover gaskets.
Thank you, good to know.
 
Check your intake bolts. Take one of them out and look at it. If it is saturated with oil thats your problem. The intake bolts are open to oil and will actually wick oil up onto the outside of the intake. You already know this. Either use ARP thread sealant or Permatex on the bolt threads. You can use RTV type sealant but I'm not a big fan of it getting into a engine. I just got finished installing new heads and intake to my 360 and used ARP thread sealant.

My 273 was the really bad about the oil coming around the intake bolts.
Then try new valve cover gaskets.
Good tip Mully. I never stop learning!
 
it will require a bit of sealer on the offending intake manifold bolts as has been suggested.
I have that T shirt
 
Super common problem.
Best to do around the bolt shoulder to bolt head also.
That way you only have to pull the bolts once. :D

And yes, I have that T shirt.
 
As others have suggested, it's quite likely the intake bolts are wicking up the oil. Try some thread sealant on them and that will likely solve the problem. I used thread sealant on all the intake bolts when I installed my intake last year and haven't had any oil pooling where your does. My neighbour replaced his intake (with no thread sealant) a month after I did and he had oil pooling. He put some thread sealant on them and no more oil.
 
Just an FYI, I adapted a 1/2 hose to an old carpet cleaner, scrubbed the oil spots with dishsoap and sucked it up.
Worked perfect and didn't make a mess on everything else trying to get it out of there.
 
As others have suggested, it's quite likely the intake bolts are wicking up the oil. Try some thread sealant on them and that will likely solve the problem. I used thread sealant on all the intake bolts when I installed my intake last year and haven't had any oil pooling where your does. My neighbour replaced his intake (with no thread sealant) a month after I did and he had oil pooling. He put some thread sealant on them and no more oil.

What sealant did you use?
ARP sealant seems to be questionable about it's reliability, on Summit Reviews. I Don't want to do it twice.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-9904/reviews
 
my 67 273 2 brl. , I changed that single plane intake for a 73 model dual plane 2 brl. intake. All threads, male and female clean and dry. High temp red RTV was some brand other than Permatex from Oriellys, cost less. 3 or 4 years ago, I forget. One bolt now leaking/wicking in front of cross over on left side. That crossover area does get mighty hot on both sides. Good luck with yours.
 
take the offending bolt out,give it a wipe and put any sealant on it.There is no
pressure on the threads...2 minutes.
Your over thinking this.
 
To me the ARP Sealant looks just like "pipe dope". If you ever seen the pipe sealant in a bottle with a brush attached to the lid that's what I'm talking about. Has a paste type texture to it and is white looking. I had to remove my intake and switch out a lifter because it wouldn't pump up. The ARP sealant was still like it was when I applied it on the bolts.
 
I too am getting oil puddling on my LD4B intake (which started about a week ago). I understand I must remove and clean the bolts. Do I need to clean the bolt holes? If so, how & with what? After I apply the sealant do I immediately re-install the bolts or wait for the sealant to set up for some time? Once the bolts are re-installed how long should I wait to drive the car?
IMG_2742.JPG
IMG_2743.JPG
 
I pulled the bolts, draped a rag over the holes and blew the oil out with compressed air. Sprayed with break clean and repeat. I used liquid Teflon thread sealant to seal the bolts. Give that a try.
 
I too am getting oil puddling on my LD4B intake (which started about a week ago). I understand I must remove and clean the bolts. Do I need to clean the bolt holes? If so, how & with what? After I apply the sealant do I immediately re-install the bolts or wait for the sealant to set up for some time? Once the bolts are re-installed how long should I wait to drive the car?
View attachment 1715320618 View attachment 1715320619
Well to fix it right, you're not supposed to drive the car for two weeks after you seal the bolts.
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^
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OR......
Whenever the package says. LOL
 
Hylomar works best and is non hardening so you can R&R or re-torque
works even if threads are not super clean
 
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