Before I even consider...

[Shamrock--WV2NC]

...going to a 360 I'd like to know how these parts would work.
Eddy 2176 intake
Eddy 1406 carb
Summit Cam and Lifters, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 272/272, Lift .454/.454, Chrysler, Small Block

Thanks

 

[273]

Best thing about mild combos shouldn't have a problem.

 

[krazykuda]

I prefer the Wiand stealth intake over the Edelbrock performer...

 

[TrailBeast]

...going to a 360 I'd like to know how these parts would work.
Eddy 2176 intake
Eddy 1406 carb
Summit Cam and Lifters, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 272/272, Lift .454/.454, Chrysler, Small Block

Thanks

The duration seems a bit high but it should still run well.
Stockish compression ratio I take it?

 

[nm9stheham]

Yes, I'd be looking carefully at the CR with that cam for daily driver/cruiser use. Stock LA 360 CR's won't work so well at the low RPM's; DCR would be in the upper 6's. Later Magnum pistons/blocks/heads would be a lot better with it; DCR would bump up to 7.3-7.4 with thin head gaskets. Of course you can fix anything to the CR you want if you can afford to swap pistons.

The cam's lift to duration ratio is lower than a lot of newer stuff. But Magnum 1.6 rocker ratios would help the lift some more.

How are you thinking/planning to use this engine/car?

 

[Toluene56]

I ran that cam in a stockish block 360.. it was .040 over but still had stock replacement pistons in it... The cam worked perfectly fine, sounded good too.

If I remember correctly I was still trying to tune the carb and the timing and stuff in this video

 

[forphorty]

318willrun has that cam in his 318 car. I have that cam in a 318 as well. My engine has been run on a test stand and sounds very mild. Don't be misled by the 272 advertised duration. Duration at .050 is only 216 as it is an old slow ramp design. I would expect it to work well in a mild 360.

 

[318willrun]

...going to a 360 I'd like to know how these parts would work.
Eddy 2176 intake
Eddy 1406 carb
Summit Cam and Lifters, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 272/272, Lift .454/.454, Chrysler, Small Block

Thanks

you already have these components and they interchange perfectly in 318's, 340's or 360's. Run them......
I will add you'll need a balanced flex plate for the 360 to work with the 318 torque converter. No biggy, you can buy it from B&M or have your current flexplate balanced. drivers side motor mount is the only other issue, but can easily be made to work or buy the right one.

 

[hemichuck]

That cam will work fine in a stock 360 short block and will have a very small lope to it. Should be good and torquey. The intake and carb will work fine also. That cam is basically the same as a stock 340 4 speed cam in 68 except it has a little more lift.

 

[318willrun]

Here's that cam in my stock block 318....

 

[318willrun]

And here is the low end in a 318...... you'll have lots more in the 360..

 

[nm9stheham]

That last video leads me to think that the low RPM torque is not all that good in that 318.... the speedo jumping up to 50 mph off the bat, and the tires spinning and acting the same as high stall TC, means it is being revved to 3.5 or 4k (or more) off the line.... IMHO, that is not a sign of good low RPM torque at 2 to 2.5 k.

That is always a problem with these discussions.... 'good running' is quite subjective, and means different things to different people.

 

[318willrun]

That last video leads me to think that the low RPM torque is not all that good in that 318.... the speedo jumping up to 50 mph off the bat, and the tires spinning and acting the same as high stall TC, means it is being revved to 3.5 or 4k (or more) off the line.... IMHO, that is not a sign of good low RPM torque at 2 to 2.5 k.

That is always a problem with these discussions.... 'good running' is quite subjective, and means different things to different people.

well, my point was the car has 2.76 gears, stock converter, lower compression than factory (which is low) because I used a thicker head gasket and it doesn't roll over and die off the line. Basically, I'm saying the 360 will not lack low end with this cam.

 

[Shamrock--WV2NC]

Thanks for all the info guys. So my shopping list consists of
1. Flex plate (from b&m?)
2. Drivers side motor mount (Any suggestions where to get it?)
3. 4v kickdown linkage (from Mancini)

i read on another post about an oil pan mismatch. This is a truck 360. Can I use the oil pan from my 318?

 

[yellow rose]

And here is the low end in a 318...... you'll have lots more in the 360..

Damn dude...hit the gas station! Run out much lol. Are you related to my wife? She won't get fuel until the light goes off and the indicator is below the E line.

 

[yellow rose]

Here's that cam in my stock block 318....

Wow. That thing is louder than my car. What mufflers are those?

 

[AJ/FormS]

OK at the risk of sounding like a dick;
If that cam really is a 272adv, and 216@050
With the stock compression ratio, and the stock TC, and anything less than 3.23s, you couldn't give me that cam.Period.
And here is why.
The 216 says it should be a torquey cam. But the 272 will make it idle like a wanna-be, all the while pissing away Dcr and sucking gas. A Dcr in the 6s will make it about as snappy as a stock teener. You will have to rev it up forever to find the power, and with 2.76s you will almost run outta mph before it really wakes up. And then you will be speeding. Look if it is 272 and 216, then it has about the slowest ramps ever put on a cam; namely 56*. You don't want that cam.
What you do want is a cam that slaps the valves open as fast as possible, holds them open for as long as possible, and then slams them shut, as quickly as possible. That's what you want. Another thing you want is to have the powerband match your transmission. And the most important thing of all is you want to have the cam put the power where you need it to be.
But you can't always have everything you want.A cam as described above would just smash everything to pieces.And if it's not enough power, get a bigger engine.
So compromises have to be made in an effort to keep the valvetrain together.And possibly to cruise the hiway with. Or if the car is a DD or weekend bomber, or a track-only car,etc. Headers or what? Big tires or donuts,etc. Hauling the family, pulling a boat/camper, or going to school, and a bazzillion other things.

So refresh my memory; What are your goals. What rear gears do you have, and what transmission? and what current stall? And it is an A-body right? Have you done a recent compression test and what are the numbers?Or do you know the exact compression ratio, or the current cam specs? What has to stay and how much money are you willing to spend?

Yeah that cam will work, but there are so many other choices out there, I am sure you can find better.
But hey, this is my opinion, so don't flame me.
And if you say that you just want the car to sound mean, well, put that cam in there and see how mean it sounds with an 8/1- 360.
Ok enough dickness,I'm sorry.

But if that cam is something other than;272 and 216, then forget I said anything,lol

 

[273]

If you compare to comp cams popular xe***h line stock 340 cam is similar to the 250 cam and the one being discussed is in line with the 256 cam far from too large.

Don't know why people seem to think you got to strangle your engine to make torque and add air flow for hp.

Both are basically the same except torque is a partial picture and hp is the full picture of what your engine is capable of. Torque is basically a snap shot of one revolution (close as we can get to no rpm in a running engine) and hp is the power of all those revolutions added up.

So to make torque is the same as hp is air flow. The trick with a street car is to build the widest power band without moving too far from idle unless you love deep gears and high stall.

I got a 380 hp create engine even with it's single plane intake and somewhat large cam and mild CR. It makes strong 2000-6000 with a peak at 5400 rpm. It's a little soft under 2000 rpm but that's cause I'm running at the moment 2.96 gears.

I think sometimes we go over board with caution.

 

[318willrun]

Damn dude...hit the gas station! Run out much lol. Are you related to my wife? She won't get fuel until the light goes off and the indicator is below the E line.

"E" means enough?????

 

[318willrun]

Wow. That thing is louder than my car. What mufflers are those?

Real cheap thrush two-chamber. I hate 'em ..... LOL

 

[318willrun]

Thanks for all the info guys. So my shopping list consists of
1. Flex plate (from b&m?)
2. Drivers side motor mount (Any suggestions where to get it?)
3. 4v kickdown linkage (from Mancini)

i read on another post about an oil pan mismatch. This is a truck 360. Can I use the oil pan from my 318?

No. you need a 360 car oil pan, and pickup tube.
you can also make your 318 mount work

 

[AJ/FormS]

Just for a point of reference.
In the very same engine, I have run a 292, a 270 and currently a 276, always with a Dcr, of 8.9 to 8.6(aluminum heads). I think I have a fair understanding of torque and power. I will never ever build an engine for myself with less Dcr than what I currently have, and in fact, since this combo runs on 87E10, if I was to build another 360 for myself, the Dcr would absolutely be increased.I'd be heading into the low9s.
IMO, a Dcr in the 6s is a waste of money.IMO. Well except for maybe a lawnmower.

 

[318willrun]

If that cam really is a 272adv, and 216@050
With the stock compression ratio, and the stock TC, and anything less than 3.23s, you couldn't give me that cam. Period.
And here is why.
The 216 says it should be a torquey cam. But the 272 will make it idle like a wanna-be, You will have to rev it up forever to find the power, and with 2.76s you will almost run outta mph before it really wakes up. And then you will be speeding. Look if it is 272 and 216, then it has about the slowest ramps ever put on a cam; namely 56*. You don't want that cam.
What you do want is a cam that slaps the valves open as fast as possible, holds them open for as long as possible, and then slams them shut, as quickly as possible. That's what you want. Another thing you want is to have the powerband match your transmission. And the most important thing of all is you want to have the cam put the power where you need it to be.
But you can't always have everything you want.A cam as described above would just smash everything to pieces.And if it's not enough power, get a bigger engine.
So compromises have to be made in an effort to keep the valvetrain together.And possibly to cruise the hiway with. Or if the car is a DD or weekend bomber, or a track-only car,etc. Headers or what? Big tires or donuts,etc. Hauling the family, pulling a boat/camper, or going to school, and a bazzillion other things.
Yeah that cam will work, but there are so many other choices out there, I am sure you can find better.

My opinion is you are wrong..... sort of. .... LOL
People pick for various reasons. First, As for me, I picked it for a specific project, and that was to start from scratch (no cherry pick'n from the shelves) and throw less than 500 bucks at a 318 2bbl in a 2.76 geared Duster without headers and run with a factory '73 340 Duster with 3.21's. Guess what? I picked this cam/lifter kit because it fit my budget at 108 bucks delivered to my door. Wasn't my favorite pick, but as you stated above, it worked. I achieved my goal.
2nd - if the OP already has this cam, and is on a budget, not a thing wrong with it. Period.
Just so you know, it's ground by Crane for Summit, an old fireball grind I believe.

 

[AJ/FormS]

Just so you know Will, yes I remember your parameters, and I am in no wise dissing yours or anybody else's current combo. Just trying to save OP some heavy disappointment.
That cam in a stock engine, and 3400pound chassis will want 3.55s or better and a 2800TC or better. Then it can be fun. But that is what?at least $1000 extra cost cuz of the cam. If OP is happy with about 216* then a 252 fast rate or a 256 nearly as fast rate, and a split-pattern for logs, is a waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better pick, and no headers even required, just some hi-flow logs; call Treblig
The 252 to 256 can use a 2200TC from a 340, and 3.23s will do just fine.
Oh yeah, and about that 252 cam, If you had decent compression and patience, Ima thinking you might be able to get point-to-point fuel mileage in the mid to high 20s;if that matters to you.A spread bore will help you with that.

But if you are stuck with 2.76s and intend to keep them, then I think I would up the TC to 2800, depending on OPs goals

 

[318willrun]

Just for a point of reference.
In the very same engine, I have run a 292, a 270 and currently a 276, always with a Dcr, of 8.9 to 8.6(aluminum heads). I think I have a fair understanding of torque and power..

Not knocking your knowledge at all, so hear me right. I think your example above is not a good one, and I think your understanding of torque and power comes from a willingness to open your wallet wider. For instance, you have more money in 1 aluminum head than I have in my entire 318 in the car I posted above. Per say, if somebody builds a 4 grand 360, they better have more torque and power than a 500 dollar 318... LOL. It'd be pretty embarrassing if it was the other way around. '
Goals are not the same for each and every car, person, or budget. The number 1 thing wrong with this site is if you don't spend spend spend on it all, a person is challenged. The exact reason why I spent 498.00 bucks on a 318 2bbl, no headers, 2.76 gears and stock converter was to show folks on a budget, or newbies (why I posted step by step videos) that they can play and have fun.
By the way, my little cheapo 318 exceeded EVERY FACTORY tested '73 340 Duster with auto and 3.21 gears. My E.T. was better, and my MPH was better. And I did it with WORSE DCR than a factory 318 2bbl as I used thicker head gaskets than factory.

• A/J, the OP asked if the cam from his 318 would work (fit) in a 360, not if anyone would approve