Hi there, installing a 1 wire alt on my race car. 74 duster factory wiring deleted. E fuel pump, E water pump, E 16 in fan, MSD ign with 7AL box. 2batteries in the trunk. 2 Post kill switch. So if I read the NHRA rule right I run a wire from alt to pos side of kill switch. I want to put a cut off switch of some kind while running the quarter mile then be able to switch it back on after the run. It's a 55 amp alt. So a toggle switch won't do. What do the guys that did this suggest. So my thinking is run wire from alt to switching device then to kill switch. Thanks. Kim
Powermaster 8172 alternator
- Thread starter oldkimmer
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Kim I don't like that method, because with the battery killed, YOU STILL HAVE a fairly large "welding cable" (sparking and arcing) that is live from one end to' to other. Crackedback takes one approach, mine is to use a "4 post" switch, which nowadays are VERY available. What you do is, if you have EFI, but the small posts in series with your pump relay. If you run a carb, use those terminals to kill a relay feeding the ignition. What that switch is off, wired that way, ALL power is "in the trunk."
On a side note..........you need a MUCH larger charging wire for a "one wire" system. Perhaps at least no6 and better no4
On a side note..........you need a MUCH larger charging wire for a "one wire" system. Perhaps at least no6 and better no4
Thanks Del, maybe Rob will chime in. Kim
famous bob
mopar misfit
I have a 130 amp powermaster one wire on my 68 fastback, underneath the motor plate, where the stock fuel pump used to be. I have a # 10 wire to the stock mopar battery connection on the starter relay, which is near where the heater motor used to be. It works fine. #2 welding cable from trunk on same post. battery stays charged, doesn`t run down if left for a few weeks, always around 14.2 on the hand held. starts the 505 even when hot. so far so good.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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I have an idea;
What if? What if you installed a normally open solenoid in the 1-wire output, and triggered it to close from the ignition sw in run, but ran the solenoid ground side thru a micro sw on the gas-pedal or carb linkage.
In this way the alt would be working anytime the ig sw is in run, except when at WOT, it cuts out. And it also quits when the master cut-off is engaged cuz the solenoid is normally open.Just an idea I once had a long time ago. Perhaps nothing new under the sun.lol
What if? What if you installed a normally open solenoid in the 1-wire output, and triggered it to close from the ignition sw in run, but ran the solenoid ground side thru a micro sw on the gas-pedal or carb linkage.
In this way the alt would be working anytime the ig sw is in run, except when at WOT, it cuts out. And it also quits when the master cut-off is engaged cuz the solenoid is normally open.Just an idea I once had a long time ago. Perhaps nothing new under the sun.lol
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
But are you running a lot of load? Like fans? You don't seem to have a very long run of no10, there, probably OK
The reason "one wire" needs a big charging line is that the sensing is right at the alternator........the load on "the other end" does not get compensated for
famous bob
mopar misfit
fuel pump for the fuel inj., MSD, one elec. fan, that comes on quite frequently now that the hi 90-100 degree temps have hit. I did have a smaller wire at first, when I first installed the EZ wiring kit, but had to go to the # 10 to get the battery to stay charged, Have thot about going one size bigger, but all seems well in the charging end of it. so far so good!
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