"EVERY A body has this problem"

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Yep,on my 75
Saw some cracking and cleaned it off. It had been welded before.
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Cut it out. I was able to clean up and reuse the cage for the nut and weld it back on. used same material thicknesses for the repair
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Granted the qtr was off and I was able to get to both sides to weld the 2 plates in easily.
 
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The biggest thing that causes this is when the bushings are shot and the door is hanging on the striker. I have done enough on all makes and the repair usually starts with bushings and re-aligning the door.
 
Yep,on my 75
Saw some cracking and cleaned it off. It had been welded before.
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Cut it out. I was able to clean up and reuse the cage for the nut and weld it back on. used same material thicknesses for the repair
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My first "A" Body was a 1969 Swinger 340 4 speed which I ordered in 1969 or 68 can not remember for sure, old age. I had this problem on the drivers door. The large washer had the sharp side on the body, and was cutting it. I got a larger washer, put the smooth side on the body, it worked fine and lasted a long time...
 
"EVERY A body has this problem" ???? -- I've had 5 of them, without this problem.
 
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I discovered when we stripped my Dart that the door striker mounting location had been reinforced on both doors on my car with a piece of metal riveted in (not the way it came from the factory).
 
Can't be every A-body, none of my current 3 has this issue.
 
I bought a used Swinger 340 in fall of 70. By 73 or 74, I had to have this repair done.I think I got it done on warranty,lol. I think if you don't drive them then they don't break,lol. I wore everything out on that car, some stuff, twice!Except tires. Man that car ate tires.And synchros.
After that I learned to adjust the door hinges more often and to not lean on the open doors.
I've had many As that were cracked there , from 40% say all the way to 100%. Actually the more I think about it I can't remember but three of them not being cracked, out of say at least 10.
 
Thanks, my car needs that repair, good info
 
I bought my shell with the right side striker gone and a hole where the base completely cracked out, the left was nearly as bad. I did the plates and highly recommend them. Of course complimented with new hinges.

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No dispute there, A lot of us are victims of previous lack of maintenance, accident damage and poor repairs. My '68 Coronet had spider cracks running from the receiver style striker all the way to the inner flange where the windlacing is. After stripping the quarter I found it was hit low behind the jamb years before and not properly brought back to place, stressing the jamb when the door was shut.
 
Where the door hinges wear, the door to sags. Then the latch post lifts door weight when the door is closed. It wasn't engineered/meant to carry any weight. Sure this issue is more common in 2 door cars, having longer heavier doors but it is not limited to one brand or body. How many of you have owned a GM product with a pizzy pull strap on the inside of the door and broke one end of that strap away from the door? They're all the same but different. We've never pulled what we grab off the inside of our doors. None are built like Sherman tanks.
Door hinges were supposed to be lubed regularly. Actually, The mfgrs expected the vehicles to visit to their service dept' regularly for routine maintenance which would have included door hinge lube.
My 67 fish is in very good condition overall. Credit goes to the previous original owner.
 
I agree with Redfish. Sagging door hinges is the main culprit to striker failure. My Duster had a cracked striker on the driver's side. The broken striker made a very annoying rattle whenever you would driver over bumps.
 
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