Too much? Wont fit? Too big?

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C Galloway

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Im still on the fence with keeping the six or swapping over to v8. Will probably depend on whats available when my house sells. But i ran across this today on craigslist. Also found a running '95 318, no tranny. Question is will this 440 even come close to fitting?

Screenshot_20170812-212944.png
 
Really if you've got a /6 in there now going to a BB doesn't require that much more than a small block. Most of the stuff you need to change would need to change for a small block too.
 
Really if you've got a /6 in there now going to a BB doesn't require that much more than a small block. Most of the stuff you need to change would need to change for a small block too.
Oh really? It just seemed like such a good deal for motor and trans, course no idea what trans it is, id assume a truck trans of some type. Some people have said k member needs swapped out and some say it works, how would you know if it does or doesnt need switched? And id assume itd be best to upgrade the rear end and front suspension
 
Oh really? It just seemed like such a good deal for motor and trans, course no idea what trans it is, id assume a truck trans of some type. Some people have said k member needs swapped out and some say it works, how would you know if it does or doesnt need switched? And id assume itd be best to upgrade the rear end and front suspension
Just found an informative page about swaps finally. www.moparts.org/Tech/tech/pages/big-block-dart.htm
 
Yeah that covers most of it. The way I see it even if you just go small block you already need a new radiator and exhaust, you need conversion mounts or a new K frame, you need a different transmission, and even with a small block you should ditch the 7.25" rear axle which means a new driveshaft too. /6 torsion bars are lousy even with /6's, so count those in either way. What's harder about the 440? The headers will cost more and you only have like 2 choices. The schumacher headers will fit with stock power steering still. You need to upgrade the rear axle for sure with the 440 swap, but really that 7.25 isn't going to be a lot of fun behind a small block anyway. It will work, but if you have too much fun you'll be picking up the pieces and getting towed home.

You can also look at Schumacher, they make the conversion engine mounts so you can keep your /6 K frame either way
/6 to small block
'67-72 A-Body S6 to SB Installation
/6 to big block
'67-72 A-Body B/RB Installation

As for the 440 transmission it's probably just a 727, unless it was out of a motorhome there's a good chance it's the same as the rest of them. I'm guessing if it was a manual he would have said so, but maybe I'm wrong.
 
440's have been put in "A" bodies many times. You don't say what year, you have. Things really get tight in a 66 down, but it has been done. Keep in mind, about maintinence afterwards.
 
I used the stock /6 K member with the Scumacher kit, not to bad to do seriously there headers mike it a lot easier.
 
Just found complete running 440 out of a 71 gtx for $2000. No tranny. Web says 375 hp 480tq for the 4bl. Now a tranny to go along and suspension and rear end just may break the bank. But that big block does pull at the heart strings.
 
Partly depends on what vehicle you have (didn't tell). Early A's (62-66) have a narrower engine bay and different K-frame, but a few people have squeezed a big-block into those. There were a few factory big-block A's, so there are K-frames that work (67+ cars), though very rare so most use Schumacher motor brackets. Have you looked at the Big-Block forum? There is also a website www.bigblockdart.com or such.

From the little I recall, a 1978 big-block is not ideal. I think at some point, they changed to a cast-iron crankshaft and open chamber heads (lower compression). Unless you go major and run headers thru the inner fenders, most people say the big-block exhaust will be so restricted that a small-block will perform better, and actually let you negotiate a turn.
 
Being a 1978 engine, you can bet it's from a motor home, which won't work. They also have really low compression. Pistons I think. There's nothing wrong with a cast crank. Mine has given great service over the last 20 years. But if it's a motor home engine, theres not much worthwhile other than the block, and crank.
 
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