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diymirage

HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
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When I pull the fuel line between the sending unit and the hardline?
It's been collapsing on me and I want to replace it...should I expect a shower or a drip?
 
Leave the cigar outside the garage before you pull the line off. Whatever is in the hardline will probably drain.
 
I am thinking a bit will come out if the car has been ran recently. if it has been sitting, not much. It is also a low pressure system if carbureted.
 
Thanks guys. Do you have any suggestions what to use as a fuel line that will not collapse? Should I use EFI line instead?
 
I always use a pair of needle nose vice grips to pinch the rubber line before I disconnect the fuel line. This will minimize the mess!! Harbor Freight sells a special plastic pair of pliers just for this job!!

treblig
 
Now if you want a shower, pull the lower radiator hose without draining the radiator, that always cracked me up when flat rate guys "in a hurry" would do that, makes one hell of a mess, and always misses the drain pan ;)
 
I always use a pair of needle nose vice grips to pinch the rubber line before I disconnect the fuel line. This will minimize the mess!! Harbor Freight sells a special plastic pair of pliers just for this job!!

treblig
I remember those
I worked at a shop that used them on brake hoses when replacing the calipers
 
When I pull the fuel line between the sending unit and the hardline?
It's been collapsing on me and I want to replace it...should I expect a shower or a drip?

diymirage...check out my post of Jul. 16 2016 (do search with words....easy fix) about upgrading hose clamps and fuel hoses from regular (R7) to fuel injection hose (R9) and reasoning behind it. I upgraded all the hoses to R9 to head off any possible fuel line problems like you are now experiencing...the aggressive fuels we have today degrade R7 hose pretty quickly. Do it asap before it causes problems in your hard lines and/or carb. Hope this helps you and good luck...318MG
 
diymirage...check out my post of Jul. 16 2016 (do search with words....easy fix) about upgrading hose clamps and fuel hoses from regular (R7) to fuel injection hose (R9) and reasoning behind it. I upgraded all the hoses to R9 to head off any possible fuel line problems like you are now experiencing...the aggressive fuels we have today degrade R7 hose pretty quickly. Do it asap before it causes problems in your hard lines and/or carb. Hope this helps you and good luck...318MG

found your post
interesting read

so...the R9 hose will not collapse?
 
Thanks guys. Do you have any suggestions what to use as a fuel line that will not collapse? Should I use EFI line instead?

For 90° bends in my fuel hoses that go to the carb, I take a piece of 5/16" steel tubing and bend a 90° with a tubing bender, then work it into the fuel hose where I want a 90° bend so the line doesn't pinch/collapse on turns etc... The steel tubing lining the hose will keep it from collapsing... It can take a bit to get the tubing where you want it, but you have to work it a little at a time...

If you put some most of the way or close to where you need just hose alone for the flexibility, then end the tube lining just before that...
 
I always use a pair of needle nose vice grips to pinch the rubber line before I disconnect the fuel line. This will minimize the mess!! Harbor Freight sells a special plastic pair of pliers just for this job!!

treblig
So will a pair of honest vice grips, a C clamp.... Crimp the line, either way...Is this a Holley, or AFB/Edelbrock based...?
 
found out when you pull that line it is barely a trickle
ive spilled more then that filling up the lawnmower...but then again, i dont usually do that laying on my back

For 90° bends in my fuel hoses that go to the carb, I take a piece of 5/16" steel tubing and bend a 90° with a tubing bender, then work it into the fuel hose where I want a 90° bend so the line doesn't pinch/collapse on turns etc... The steel tubing lining the hose will keep it from collapsing... It can take a bit to get the tubing where you want it, but you have to work it a little at a time...
brilliant...but not applicable here
well, not completely, i went and grabbed a junk piece of 5/16th fuel line i had downstairs, spend 45 minutes looking for my tubing bender
then i got under there and found out the main issue was a misalignment of the hard line and the sending unit

so time well wasted, i got to use my tubing bender (remember, the one i spend 45 minutes looking for) to align the hardline with the sending unit, and now there is a less then an inch gap that the R9 covers

So will a pair of honest vice grips, a C clamp.... Crimp the line, either way...Is this a Holley, or AFB/Edelbrock based...?

not sure if this was directed to me or gill, but i was working on the tail end of a duster, which has a proform 750 up front, basically a holley double pumper
 
found your post
interesting read

so...the R9 hose will not collapse?

All rubber hoses will collapse/kink if bent tight enough. I was talking about straight runs of R9 hose with no tight bends. When you ask "the R9 hose will not collapse?" I am taking that question to explain that the R9 hose rubber compound is specifically formulated to withstand the ethanol and other aggressive fuel blends that our Mopars have to use today (unless there is an ethanol free gas station by you). If someone were to continue using the R7 hose with ethanol, then that hose would degrade inside and bits of the hose lining would start to break off (and if left alone long enough could cause collapse) and move into the hard line (possibly getting lodged in there) and/or travel into the carb and settling there causing more serious problems. When I changed my R7 hose to R9 hose, I changed all the rubber hose areas from the gas tank all the way to the carb. Don't change the hoses piecemeal, while you're doing it, change them all. There is a Quality Plus gas station in Maggie Valley, NC (next town over from me) that sells ethanol free 93 octane and that's where I fill up my 73 Swinger. But if I am travelling a distance to a car show and are forced to fill up at an ethanol blended gas station on the way back home, then I have the peace of mind that I can use the gas with ethanol and it won't degrade my rubber fuel hoses. I hope this info helps you...did you change the old standard hose clamps and upgrade to FI hose clamps also? My Dad always said "Do it right once and then you don't have to worry about it anymore"....words of wisdom that pertain to a lot of things in Life.
Take Care,
318MG
 
found your post
interesting read

so...the R9 hose will not collapse?
Much much less likely even with a tight bend, which You should obviously avoid. Almost all current SAE 30R9 hose has a teflon liner inside, which is much more resistant to
the ethanol content in modern "gasoline", I have used EFI grade hose in all of My cars & projects for others unless doing braided installs. NAPA recalled a run of their EFI
hose a while ago, it was not lined, manufactured by Gates. I have used said line and not had a failure though.........
I believe there is also a new EFI SAE hose rating, but it escapes Me at the moment.
 
Gates makes EFI rubber fuel hose. O'Reilly carries it. It comes on a light green plastic roll. The hose on the black roll is regular carbureted hose.
 
Oh, to actually address the original question, it depends on how much fuel is in the tank. If You remove the fuel cap(very important!!) & have the line pinched, You can blow
thru the line back into the tank as you un-pinch the hose, this will break any siphon effect. If you don't remove the cap, even w/a clear vent, it will be dry for about .4secs.,
then you will be getting a petrol facial!!! If the level is high, well, plan to drain it or work on it whilst it's trickling steadily.
 
All rubber hoses will collapse/kink if bent tight enough..did you change the old standard hose clamps and upgrade to FI hose clamps also?

it turned out it could rebend the steel lines to avoid bends in the rubber hose altogether
i did forget to buy the EFI clamps, so i used the stock spring type clamps on the inside and then wormgear clamps on the outside


Gates makes EFI rubber fuel hose. O'Reilly carries it. It comes on a light green plastic roll. The hose on the black roll is regular carbureted hose.

thanks Rusty, ill keep this in mind next time i need a piece (i had picked up a section before you posted this allready)


Oh, to actually address the original question, it depends on how much fuel is in the tank. If You remove the fuel cap(very important!!) & have the line pinched, You can blow
thru the line back into the tank as you un-pinch the hose, this will break any siphon effect. If you don't remove the cap, even w/a clear vent, it will be dry for about .4secs.,
then you will be getting a petrol facial!!! If the level is high, well, plan to drain it or work on it whilst it's trickling steadily.

it barely trickled, like i mentioned, ive spilled more filling up the dirtbikes
 
it turned out it could rebend the steel lines to avoid bends in the rubber hose altogether
i did forget to buy the EFI clamps, so i used the stock spring type clamps on the inside and then wormgear clamps on the outside




thanks Rusty, ill keep this in mind next time i need a piece (i had picked up a section before you posted this allready)




it barely trickled, like i mentioned, ive spilled more filling up the dirtbikes
Less mess is always the best!! Yeah, I wasn't sure if it was collapsing because the pick-up was getting clogged, or just hose degradation. If the tank was full, and You did
blow thru back into the tank, You'd be able to tell quickly, but the tank vent(on early A's esp.) will build plenty of pressure just from that to hose You after You stop.
 
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