somethings not right here

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trudysduster said:
What kind of drugs are you on. I would like some of those. if you look back on post #1, you might see a shroud, or maybe not.
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I see a waste of time in the shape of fan shroud that doesn't even fit the blade or seal to the radiator.... You're probably pulling more air through the gap at the top than you are through folded fins on that radiator.

But you're right, there's a shroud there. Next time just lay it on top of the motor and close the hood. It'll do as much good.
 
Daves69 said:
Lol, I've found sometimes even after I have read a post twice, dammit, somehow I still miss it!:(
Don't get old!
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Dude, I ain't even old. That means it's just me.

I got the whaddya call it, seasonal affective disorder, every fall I get cranky, can't think very straight, can't type worth damn, and damn sure shouldn't be typing on a website trying to help. Apologies to all for wasting time and coming across like a dick.
 
The photo is a lil bigger than a postage stamp on my phone,it sure looked bass-ackawards to me. That and november before my new spectacles come in.

Seasonal affected disorder syndrome. I get it, when sun starts setting before 9 pm.
 
Is you fan an 18"?

What is the diameter of the shroud? 20" My fan has the mushroomed rivets towards the engine, but not the curved blade edges.

Let us know
 
Steven190 said:
Is you fan an 18"?

What is the diameter of the shroud? 20" My fan has the mushroomed rivets towards the engine, but not the curved blade edges.

Let us know
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Its a 17" fan, 20" shroud and the mushroomed rivets are towards the engine. But I don't have 1 1/2" clearance on each side because a BB does not sit centered in an abody. So it is tight on the pass. side.I put this thing together and ran it up the road and back and let it idle in the drive for 30-40 minutes. Temp never got over 190*. Took it out for a 20 mile ride Monday and got off the exit and pulled into a fast food drive thru. Temp was at 190* when I ordered and by the time I got the food and pulled away from the window, it had climbed to 210*. so go figure. I am thinking it may have been the thermostat stuck a little. It is new and it may be cheap from a parts house. I am going to replace it this week too.
 
jos51700 said:
I see a waste of time in the shape of fan shroud that doesn't even fit the blade or seal to the radiator.... You're probably pulling more air through the gap at the top than you are through folded fins on that radiator.

But you're right, there's a shroud there. Next time just lay it on top of the motor and close the hood. It'll do as much good.
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By the way, I am not done with the shroud. I have the stripping to fix it but wanted to wait till it was fixed. I wanted to make sure the fan would fit, it wouldn't hit before I sealed it. That crack isn't going to cause this problem.
 
I think I have the same or very similar shroud and mine fits about the same. But I have the 7-blade fan and thermostatic clutch as shown in post #17. I run a minimum water temp of 205 with a 7# cap. It's only a 367 tho, but it goes 93 in the 1/8th. It will idle forever, lug along in traffic on the hottest days (Well only mid 90s up here), or go multiple WOTs; with the needle rock-solid.
If you have trouble stopped at idle, with a known good stat, you just need more airflow. Should be an easy fix.
I guess you know your options.
 
trudysduster said:
Its a 17" fan, 20" shroud and the mushroomed rivets are towards the engine. .
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Bill you can take this to the bank:

That blade is correct for CW rotation as you had it propped against the siding. The round side of the rivets go to the rad as you seem to have.

You should see concave curve on the engine side of the blades, which you seem to have
 
67Dart273 said:
Bill you can take this to the bank:

That blade is correct for CW rotation as you had it propped against the siding. The round side of the rivets go to the rad as you seem to have.

You should see concave curve on the engine side of the blades, which you seem to have
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Thanks Del. I have ordered some other parts that will probably help it out.
 
4spdragtop said:
Have you used temp guns to verify temps? Is this the car with 2 temp gauges?
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yeah, I bought one of those temp guns and it didn't do anything. Yes, I have 2 temp gauges in this car. One is the factory gauge in the cluster and I bought a set of Bosch gauges and mounted them.
 
67Dart273 said:
Bill you can take this to the bank:

That blade is correct for CW rotation as you had it propped against the siding. The round side of the rivets go to the rad as you seem to have.

You should see concave curve on the engine side of the blades, which you seem to have
Click to expand...

It just can't get any more basic than that.
And I suppose Jos51700 might be right, as if you don't trust yourself to put your hand behind the fan without sticking it in the fan or belts, don't.
Personally I don't have that problem.:D
 
what I wanna know is what' the water pump gotta do with this . and why buy a new one and 210 is NOT hot idleing in a drive thru on a hot day .
 
Agreed. Why a new water pump? Different amount of vanes maybe?
Less vanes apparently slows the flow which allows more rad time for coolant?
jimjimjimmy said:
what I wanna know is what' the water pump gotta do with this . and why buy a new one and 210 is NOT hot idleing in a drive thru on a hot day .
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I run that Milodon Hi-flo, so I can reduce the fan rpm cuz I regularly hit 7200rpm, and I'm hoping the belt stands a better chance of staying on and the fan not blowing up. So far so good. I also run a 195 Milodon hi-flo stat, that maintains a minimum water temp of 205 at the stat. I depend on the 7-blade and thermostatic clutch to do their jobs. So far so good, 15 years and counting.
The only visible thing different about the Milodon pump is the anti-cavitation plate. IIRC it was an 8-vane.
 
I am thinking if the car was running at 190 then parked for say 10 minutes, the engine would "heat soak", thus explaining the 210 degrees when the car was started back up. Once coolant started circulating , it would most likely drop back down to 190 rather quickly.
 
Dartswinger70 said:
I am thinking if the car was running at 190 then parked for say 10 minutes, the engine would "heat soak", thus explaining the 210 degrees when the car was started back up. Once coolant started circulating , it would most likely drop back down to 190 rather quickly.
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first of all you didn't read the post right. The car ran no more than 190 for 30-40 minutes. car was parked for a couple of days, not 10 minutes. car ran fine for the 20 miles and when I got off the exit and ran thru the drive thru, that is when it climbed to 210*. After I left the window it dropped back to 190. car ran no more than 180 on the drive up.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I run that Milodon Hi-flo, so I can reduce the fan rpm cuz I regularly hit 7200rpm, and I'm hoping the belt stands a better chance of staying on and the fan not blowing up. So far so good. I also run a 195 Milodon hi-flo stat, that maintains a minimum water temp of 205 at the stat. I depend on the 7-blade and thermostatic clutch to do their jobs. So far so good, 15 years and counting.
The only visible thing different about the Milodon pump is the anti-cavitation plate. IIRC it was an 8-vane.
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I just bought a Milodon high flo for it, why...... because I like to spend money. No, because that pump was an original and I just don't trust it.
 
trudysduster said:
first of all you didn't read the post right. The car ran no more than 190 for 30-40 minutes. car was parked for a couple of days, not 10 minutes. car ran fine for the 20 miles and when I got off the exit and ran thru the drive thru, that is when it climbed to 210*. After I left the window it dropped back to 190. car ran no more than 180 on the drive up.
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Second of all, Sorry, you can figure it out yourself then. My car runs. (Laugh)
 
My car temp gauge runs 200* on highway and cooler in town (190). New water pump last year.
My coolant/ water mix(50/50) last year had a boil temp of 265* as per label. I learned to deal with 200* temps. Can't remember if water pump had 6 or 8 vanes. When i turn defrost on to attempt to lower engine temp, it isnt blowing hot. Kinda luke warm. Not sure if engine temp is evem am issue.
 
4spdragtop said:
My car temp gauge runs 200* on highway and cooler in town (190). New water pump last year.
My coolant/ water mix(50/50) last year had a boil temp of 265* as per label. I learned to deal with 200* temps. Can't remember if water pump had 6 or 8 vanes. When i turn defrost on to attempt to lower engine temp, it isnt blowing hot. Kinda luke warm. Not sure if engine temp is evem am issue.
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not normal to run hotter on the hi way !
 
If it was a newer vehicle,which i have had the pleasure to diagnose and repair, heating up on highway is most always a head gasket leaking. I use a tester that detects combustion gases in coolant.
 
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