4 WHEEL DISC CONVERSION (Ram Man Inc. supplier)

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HMBCUDA

HMBCUDA

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Hi All,
Has any one used the ram man inc's A-body disc conversion kits? If so, was it a good decision or were there issues?

I realize it's probably a waist of money, but I figure if I'm going for it I might as well go 4 wheel disk.(4 wheel non power drum car) I have '74 spindles and upper control arms, and going with 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern.

I don't want to go with Wilwood disc conversion, but might use their master cylinder/power booster.(has 1-1/8th bore and is aluminum so wont rust up)

If any one has done a 4 wheel disk upgrade on an a-body I would sure like to ask a few Questions about the whole proportioning block situation and brake lines. Wondering what you had to to to get it right.

PS: My car's a'68 Barracuda

Thank You for any Info anyone can give!
 
No reason to use anyone but @DoctorDiff if you're going 5x4.5". Best customer service out there, and great products. The rear disk kit he sells also allows for the use of the original tapered style axle bearings, a lot of kits out there need the green bearings to work.

DoctorDiff Drivetrain Components

I wouldn't use a 1.125" master cylinder either. If you're going to use a power disk set up it might be ok, but the stock 1 1/32" would be better. And if you're going to be using manual disks then 15/16" is the way to go. Doctor diff sells a very nice master cylinder as well. For a 4 wheel disk set up you should use an adjustable prop valve to get the rears dialed in correctly. Some have managed without one, but there's a lot of variables and the only way to really be sure is to use an adjustable.
 
All my stuff is from Doctor Diff. I went 4 wheel disk also on a 1972 Dart.

20160512_210959.jpg
 
72bluNblu said:
No reason to use anyone but @DoctorDiff if you're going 5x4.5". Best customer service out there, and great products. The rear disk kit he sells also allows for the use of the original tapered style axle bearings, a lot of kits out there need the green bearings to work.

DoctorDiff Drivetrain Components

I wouldn't use a 1.125" master cylinder either. If you're going to use a power disk set up it might be ok, but the stock 1 1/32" would be better. And if you're going to be using manual disks then 15/16" is the way to go. Doctor diff sells a very nice master cylinder as well. For a 4 wheel disk set up you should use an adjustable prop valve to get the rears dialed in correctly. Some have managed without one, but there's a lot of variables and the only way to really be sure is to use an adjustable.
Click to expand...
OK Thanks,
72bluNblu said:
No reason to use anyone but @DoctorDiff if you're going 5x4.5". Best customer service out there, and great products. The rear disk kit he sells also allows for the use of the original tapered style axle bearings, a lot of kits out there need the green bearings to work.

DoctorDiff Drivetrain Components

I wouldn't use a 1.125" master cylinder either. If you're going to use a power disk set up it might be ok, but the stock 1 1/32" would be better. And if you're going to be using manual disks then 15/16" is the way to go. Doctor diff sells a very nice master cylinder as well. For a 4 wheel disk set up you should use an adjustable prop valve to get the rears dialed in correctly. Some have managed without one, but there's a lot of variables and the only way to really be sure is to use an adjustable.
Click to expand...
72Dart6pack said:
All Doctor Diff parts.

View attachment 1715115207

View attachment 1715115208

View attachment 1715115209
Click to expand...
Nice work! I think I've looked at all the conversion kits out there and was flipping between firm feel, (front), Dr. Diff (rear) or The Ram Man. Looks like Dr Diff get the thumbs up form you gentlemen!
I read some previous threads of the swap from drum to disc, but still a bit confused about what to do about the proportioning/brake line situation...and what is the best way to go.
-If I understand correctly...I keep/or replace(with '68 A-body), stock front to rear brake lines(or go with re-pop stainless steel?), that I plumb to a A-Body '73-'76 proportioning valve/block (should swap out to exact location as my '68 4 wheel drum prop valve, CORRECT?) and use '73-'76 A-body power disc master cylinder (to prop valve) hard lines. AND plumb in a adjustable proportioning valve. (any suggestions on best location for the adjustable valve?)
Thanks Again!
 
All Doctor Diff replacement parts you can get at any auto store. That's what makes it so great.
 
No problems at all with the Ram Man myself, I like his info and to keep everything mopar, can get all parts from an auto parts store if needed to be replaced, his kit was a bit over 600.00 and everything bolted right up to my 66..

000096.jpg


000059.jpg
 
72bluNblu said:
No reason to use anyone but @DoctorDiff if you're going 5x4.5". Best customer service out there, and great products. The rear disk kit he sells also allows for the use of the original tapered style axle bearings, a lot of kits out there need the green bearings to work.

DoctorDiff Drivetrain Components

I wouldn't use a 1.125" master cylinder either. If you're going to use a power disk set up it might be ok, but the stock 1 1/32" would be better. And if you're going to be using manual disks then 15/16" is the way to go. Doctor diff sells a very nice master cylinder as well. For a 4 wheel disk set up you should use an adjustable prop valve to get the rears dialed in correctly. Some have managed without one, but there's a lot of variables and the only way to really be sure is to use an adjustable.
Click to expand...

Cass, AKA Dr Diff, is a great man to do learn from and do business with. He is VERY knowledgeable and helpful.

I installed Firm Feel's front brake pads in the big single piston calipers, and used the Mopar 11 3/4" Police/Taxi front rotors with Cass's rear Econo Kit. That rear kit uses 2005 Mustang Cobra R rear disc's and calipers with a steel mounting bracket. I also run them with the manual < 1" Master Cylinder. I forget the exact bore size, but it is perfect for the combo. I also had Cass order me a complete set of the braided steel DOT brakelines for the system. It makes a huge difference in pedal feel and feedback.

The front and rear discs are perfectly sized and very well-matched to the point that I don't need any additional proportioning control. This brake combo's feedback, balance and feel has been nothing short of amazing over the years.

I also installed one additional item in my brake system that gets little attention on the forums, but is a significant upgrade for braking safety. This < $100 device installs on the rear brake line just before the line split/hose to the rear axle. It is essentially a shock absorber for the pressure spike that occurs when you suddenly hit the brakes. It provides a split second reduction of the initial shock wave in the brake fluid as it travels to the rear discs/drums. It does not reduce the line pressure at all. It simply cushions the initial shock wave, so that the rear brakes don't lock up as a result of the instant increase in brake pressure during panic stop like applications. Otherwise, you would never know it's there.

It works extremely well, is relatively inexpensive and is easy to install. I use it on both my Mopars, which have always had a tendency to lock up the rear brakes during a sudden hard stop, especially when it had drum brakes and stock proportioning.

The device is used by a lot of dirt and asphalt racers for that very purpose. To dramatically reduce initial rear brake lock up during sudden hard braking applications. I'll dig around for the name of the product and post a picture here in a bit.

Rear suspension.jpg
 
I used the Ram Man for my K-H front discs on my 68 hemi dart clone. He does have a ton of knowledge. But be prepared he is a bit quirky to say the least. My complete conversion came in at about a $1000. Seems to look the part. I guess if I were to do it over again I would just go with Wilwood, not worry about the look and get it done.
 
Doctor Diff's kits, at least the ones in stock sizes, are all remanufactured OE design parts, just like the stuff from Ram Man. There's been a lot of folks that have had issues with Ram Man as a vendor. I won't go into that other than to say, there's no reason to get the parts from Ram Man when you can get them from Cass at DoctorDiff.
 
memike said:
No problems at all with the Ram Man myself, I like his info and to keep everything mopar, can get all parts from an auto parts store if needed to be replaced, his kit was a bit over 600.00 and everything bolted right up to my 66..

View attachment 1715115325

View attachment 1715115326
Click to expand...
OK Thanks, that the kind of response I was hoping for, It's a big ($) decision and I want to make the right choice. Glad you didn't have any problems with TRM brake parts and (and them showing up after you order), that's important.
 
jbc426 said:
Cass, AKA Dr Diff, is a great man to do learn from and do business with. He is VERY knowledgeable and helpful.

I installed Firm Feel's front brake pads in the big single piston calipers, and used the Mopar 11 3/4" Police/Taxi front rotors with Cass's rear Econo Kit. That rear kit uses 2005 Mustang Cobra R rear disc's and calipers with a steel mounting bracket. I also run them with the manual < 1" Master Cylinder. I forget the exact bore size, but it is perfect for the combo. I also had Cass order me a complete set of the braided steel DOT brakelines for the system. It makes a huge difference in pedal feel and feedback.

The front and rear discs are perfectly sized and very well-matched to the point that I don't need any additional proportioning control. This brake combo's feedback, balance and feel has been nothing short of amazing over the years.

I also installed one additional item in my brake system that gets little attention on the forums, but is a significant upgrade for braking safety. This < $100 device installs on the rear brake line just before the line split/hose to the rear axle. It is essentially a shock absorber for the pressure spike that occurs when you suddenly hit the brakes. It provides a split second reduction of the initial shock wave in the brake fluid as it travels to the rear discs/drums. It does not reduce the line pressure at all. It simply cushions the initial shock wave, so that the rear brakes don't lock up as a result of the instant increase in brake pressure during panic stop like applications. Otherwise, you would never know it's there.

It works extremely well, is relatively inexpensive and is easy to install. I use it on both my Mopars, which have always had a tendency to lock up the rear brakes during a sudden hard stop, especially when it had drum brakes and stock proportioning.

The device is used by a lot of dirt and asphalt racers for that very purpose. To dramatically reduce initial rear brake lock up during sudden hard braking applications. I'll dig around for the name of the product and post a picture here in a bit.

View attachment 1715115339
Click to expand...
Thanks JBC, I think I may go with Dr.Diff's rear kit. I am very interested in the line pressure reducer, sounds like a good idea. If you can dig up a brand/name/supplier for this part that would be great, thanks again!
 
You will never go wrong with going with Doctor Diff. I love it and the quality is top notch.
 
HMBCUDA said:
Thanks JBC, I think I may go with Dr.Diff's rear kit. I am very interested in the line pressure reducer, sounds like a good idea. If you can dig up a brand/name/supplier for this part that would be great, thanks again!
Click to expand...

Here's a link to DPI and an excerpt from their part description w/ a picture. Notice how the valve is oriented in the car to allow efficient bleeding of any trapped air pockets in the line.

Lock Resistant Brake System (LBS)


"Lock Resistant Brake System (LBS)

The LBS was originally developed for the professional race teams in NASCAR to prevent a loose or over steer condition under heavy loads. It assures the front tires slip first by dampening the pressure to the rear brakes. With LBS the rear tires will accept nearly twice as much braking force without locking up.

The LBS installs easily in the rear brake line and utilizes a unique dampening valve that acts as a shock absorber to sense and dampen the sharp spike in-line pressure when the brakes are applied suddenly.

The LBS improves the brake performance on any race car or truck. The DPI LBS doesn't reduce rear brake pressure, it dampens and delays it. It prevents rear brake lock-up without degrading rear brake performance and overloading the front brakes."

Brake part.JPG
 
jbc426 said:
Here's a link to DPI and an excerpt from their part description w/ a picture. Notice how the valve is oriented in the car to allow efficient bleeding of any trapped air pockets in the line.

Lock Resistant Brake System (LBS)


"Lock Resistant Brake System (LBS)

The LBS was originally developed for the professional race teams in NASCAR to prevent a loose or over steer condition under heavy loads. It assures the front tires slip first by dampening the pressure to the rear brakes. With LBS the rear tires will accept nearly twice as much braking force without locking up.

The LBS installs easily in the rear brake line and utilizes a unique dampening valve that acts as a shock absorber to sense and dampen the sharp spike in-line pressure when the brakes are applied suddenly.

The LBS improves the brake performance on any race car or truck. The DPI LBS doesn't reduce rear brake pressure, it dampens and delays it. It prevents rear brake lock-up without degrading rear brake performance and overloading the front brakes."

View attachment 1715116558
Click to expand...
cool! thanks for the picture too, helps to see how you plumbed it in there.
 
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