Decent Slant 6 carb, intake, header setup

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For not allot of money they will run well. Head work Offy or Clifford intake,small 4 bbl carb.
If you have a 170,,no headers avalible.You can get the 225 header to work, the front pipe near the steering box will need to be re-worked. Photo is from my 64 Dart.

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If you have trouble finding headers to fit your early A (Clifford Shortys being the only ones I know of), another option is Dutra Duals. This allows you to keep your intake manifold heat - a really good aspect for a daily driver. Doing the HEI ingition swap and getting your distributor recurved will also perk up your motor. If you don't mind swapping out the cam, something to let it breathe a bit better will also make a difference. Use the search function on slantsix.org for engine build ideas. The gurus there have done every kind of slant build you could imagine.
 
For not allot of money they will run well. Head work Offy or Clifford intake,small 4 bbl carb.
If you have a 170,,no headers avalible.You can get the 225 header to work, the front pipe near the steering box will need to be re-worked. Photo is from my 64 Dart.

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Looks awesome! Was looking at the Clifford headers and intake earlier.
 
If you have trouble finding headers to fit your early A (Clifford Shortys being the only ones I know of), another option is Dutra Duals. This allows you to keep your intake manifold heat - a really good aspect for a daily driver. Doing the HEI ingition swap and getting your distributor recurved will also perk up your motor. If you don't mind swapping out the cam, something to let it breathe a bit better will also make a difference. Use the search function on slantsix.org for engine build ideas. The gurus there have done every kind of slant build you could imagine.

Will swapping the manifold for headers require a cam change? Trying to avoid delaying it's debut with pavement. I'm ocd on certain things but with a current worn compression of 5.8:1, if a cam change is mandatory I might as well go the whole mile.
 
Nope, I have done several Slants, you don't have to change the cam(yet).Just making it breath better with a larger carb and a good exhaust.
I did a test with a 67 Dart 225. Stone stock the thing had a hard time to run 90 mph flat out.It had 2.76 rear gears. With $800 of parts (all new) 390 4 bbl Holley,Clifford intake,Clifford shorty headers,2 1/2'' single exhaust with a good free flowing muffler(I used a Flowmaster 40 at the time)a good tune up with a Petronix electronic ignition and worked distributor advance.The car had no problem pegging the speedometer.With the stock cam/valve springs it was done at 4800 rpm.I switched to 340 Valve springs and the engine would see 5500 rpm. The sky is the limit from there.
 
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Nope, I have done several Slants, you don't have to change the cam(yet).Just making it breath better with a larger carb and a good exhaust.
I did a test with a 67 Dart 225. Stone stock the thing had a hard time to run 90 mph flat out.It had 2.76 rear gears. With $800 of parts (all new) 390 4 bbl Holley,Clifford intake,Clifford shorty headers,2 1/2'' single exhaust with a good free flowing muffler(I used a Flowmaster 40 at the time)a good tune up with a Petronix electronic ignition and worked distributor advance.The car had no problem pegging the speedometer.With the stock cam/valve springs it was done at 4800 rpm.I switched to 340 Valve springs and the engine would see 5500 rpm. The sky is the limit from there.

Plan on having dual exhaust, would there be any issues putting an adapter flange from 2 1/2" to 3" cause any back pressure issues? want to slap on some Purple Hornies or go with a Stock Car exhaust setup from there. Though I can go the stock car route without flange issues.
 
[QUOTE="63 Hurst Valiant, post: 1971924136, member: 522 I'm ocd on certain things but with a current worn compression of 5.8:1, [/QUOTE]
Where did you get this number? Are you refering to the factory advertised rating of 8.5-1? They never even got close to that in the real world. More like 7.9-8.0 to 1.

My personal opinion, and many will not agree. It is more labor intensive, but most bang for the buck. Pull the head and mill it to raise the compression ratio. How much depends on whether you are OK with premium, or reguler fuel. Better fuel economy, and more power. No down side. Then after that, you can add bolt ons, as the budget allows.

PS: You can always get a spare head, have it done (make sure the valves are in good shape, and maybe a little bowl blending), the just swap heads, over a weekend.
 
For not allot of money they will run well. Head work Offy or Clifford intake,small 4 bbl carb.
If you have a 170,,no headers avalible.You can get the 225 header to work, the front pipe near the steering box will need to be re-worked. Photo is from my 64 Dart.

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Could you share the part number of your starter?
 
The Summit starter is SUM-820337. As Charrlie stated any mopar mini starter will work.
 
[/QUOTE]
My personal opinion, and many will not agree. It is more labor intensive, but most bang for the buck. Pull the head and mill it to raise the compression ratio. How much depends on whether you are OK with premium, or reguler fuel. Better fuel economy, and more power. No down side. Then after that, you can add bolt ons, as the budget allows.
[/QUOTE]

Mine is a 64 Val, 3-on-the-tree, 3.23, 225.

I mostly followed Charlie's recommendations. 100% engine rebuild, +.040, rebuilt head with hardened seats, pocket ported and gasket matched by me, .080 milled off the head, mild porting on stock intake and exhaust manifolds. Called Oregon cams with my info including usage and went with the milder of the 2 cams he recommended because it's a driver. Rebuilt the Carter BBS. Used SSD recommendations for NGK plugs, ignition parts and fuel line routing. Bought 2-1/4 turbo muffler, pipes and bends to weld up a single exhaust but lucked out and bought a complete almost new professionally bent 2" system at a swap meet for $40. Had a Thrush muffler welded into it. Sounds like a V-8 at idle.

I never had a chance to baseline it because the engine was locked up when I got it (in storage 31 years) but now have put about 2500 miles on it without any issues. Plenty of power to stay way out front of traffic and goes up hills just fine without downshifting. I got 23.8 MPG going to Carlisle this past summer on 87 octane cruising 65-70 MPH on the Ohio and PA turnpikes.

I've been collecting parts and have everything to go 2 barrel, 4 speed and disc brakes soon.
 
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I would check the gear ratio out back first. If it's a auto I would run 3.23 or if it's a four speed run 3.55. With a two barrel super six intake and a larger exhaust single exhaust it will make a great difference.
 
[QUOTE="63 Hurst Valiant, post: 1971924136, member: 522 I'm ocd on certain things but with a current worn compression of 5.8:1,
Where did you get this number? Are you refering to the factory advertised rating of 8.5-1? They never even got close to that in the real world. More like 7.9-8.0 to 1.

My personal opinion, and many will not agree. It is more labor intensive, but most bang for the buck. Pull the head and mill it to raise the compression ratio. How much depends on whether you are OK with premium, or reguler fuel. Better fuel economy, and more power. No down side. Then after that, you can add bolt ons, as the budget allows.

PS: You can always get a spare head, have it done (make sure the valves are in good shape, and maybe a little bowl blending), the just swap heads, over a weekend.[/QUOTE]

I'll consider this for sure. But that's my current cold compression. If that makes sense. Advertised off the floor is 8.2-8.5:1. So my educated guess is my rings are worn.
 
My personal opinion, and many will not agree. It is more labor intensive, but most bang for the buck. Pull the head and mill it to raise the compression ratio. How much depends on whether you are OK with premium, or reguler fuel. Better fuel economy, and more power. No down side. Then after that, you can add bolt ons, as the budget allows.
[/QUOTE]

Mine is a 64 Val, 3-on-the-tree, 3.23, 225.

I mostly followed Charlie's recommendations. 100% engine rebuild, +.040, rebuilt head with hardened seats, pocket ported and gasket matched by me, .080 milled off the head, mild porting on stock intake and exhaust manifolds. Called Oregon cams with my info including usage and went with the milder of the 2 cams he recommended because it's a driver. Rebuilt the Carter BBS. Used SSD recommendations for NGK plugs, ignition parts and fuel line routing. Bought 2-1/4 turbo muffler, pipes and bends to weld up a single exhaust but lucked out and bought a complete almost new professionally bent 2" system at a swap meet for $40. Had a Thrush muffler welded into it. Sounds like a V-8 at idle.

I never had a chance to baseline it because the engine was locked up when I got it (in storage 31 years) but now have put about 2500 miles on it without any issues. Plenty of power to stay way out front of traffic and goes up hills just fine without downshifting. I got 23.8 MPG going to Carlisle this past summer on 87 octane cruising 65-70 MPH on the Ohio and PA turnpikes.

I've been collecting parts and have everything to go 2 barrel, 4 speed and disc brakes soon.[/QUOTE]

That's great! My car is going to a V8 at some point. My slant six will definitely be completely redone once it has another power plant to keep it on the road during that time. Though it'll be a back up if I some how manage to blow a N/A 340 up.
 
....have this set-up for my 1985 D-100. Still need to test fit the headers and power/ceramic coat them.

Bryan.

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....have this set-up for my 1985 D-100. Still need to test fit the headers and power/ceramic coat them.

Bryan.

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The headers you have there are similar to the Hooker Super Comps I was looking at, though I've been told that there may be serious modification to different cars depending on how they fit them.
 
I have a ‘70 Dodge Challenger with a 225 Slant6. I am running the Super Six set-up 2 bbl carter w/ Hooker headers 3 into one, MOPAR elect. IGN. orange box, Accel hi output coil, K&N open element air filter. Real 2 1/4” dual exhaust w/ “H” pipe 2 glass pak mufflers then to the back. 904 auto. trans, 8 3/4 742 rear chunk 3.23 gear set. Runs great and sounds like at idle small V8. Thanks, Al
 
I have a ‘70 Dodge Challenger with a 225 Slant6. I am running the Super Six set-up 2 bbl carter w/ Hooker headers 3 into one, MOPAR elect. IGN. orange box, Accel hi output coil, K&N open element air filter. Real 2 1/4” dual exhaust w/ “H” pipe 2 glass pak mufflers then to the back. 904 auto. trans, 8 3/4 742 rear chunk 3.23 gear set. Runs great and sounds like at idle small V8. Thanks, Al
 
I have a ‘70 Dodge Challenger with a 225 Slant6. I am running the Super Six set-up 2 bbl carter w/ Hooker headers 3 into one, MOPAR elect. IGN. orange box, Accel hi output coil, K&N open element air filter. Real 2 1/4” dual exhaust w/ “H” pipe 2 glass pak mufflers then to the back. 904 auto. trans, 8 3/4 742 rear chunk 3.23 gear set. Runs great and sounds like at idle small V8. Thanks, Al
 
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