79' 360 2BB

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cowrevenge

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I have got a 360 that doesn't want to start when its cold. The engine has 41k miles on it and generally runs just fine when warmed up. I really like the idea of installing an EFI system. Can someone tell me if using a 2 injector system is a terrible idea? I looked at swappable intakes and people seem to praise the factory 4bb. So my options are

#1 buy a new 2bb. ($200?)
#2 swap to 4bb, (new carb/intake rpm performer maybe?) ($500-$600?)
#3 swap to 4bb, (new carb/ find a factory intake) ($300-$400?)
#4 install a 2 injector efi system ( fuel pump+ other stuff.) (I would be lucky here at $1600)
#5 install a 4 injector efi system ( fuel pump+intake, other stuff.) (I would be lucky here at $1900)
#6 I am also told I can find a factory efi system, but its terrible (Pass)

I need this to pull a decent weight on its wheelbase and never on the strip. I never want to be at high rpms, and I do not need to exceed 70mph, with a probably average of only 55mph.

So, reliable, efficient and still pull weight on its wheelbase.

I am open to used stuff, but it has to be straight bolt on. I have no idea how to tune carbs and most of the people in my area don't even know what a carb is.
 
Learn how to tune the carb, those old 2bbls are easy.
Add another number on the list, $20 carb kit from napa and either do it yourself, or find a local friend to help you.
They are simple if you know how to use a screwdriver, and pay attention to the directions.
 
Learn how to tune the carb, those old 2bbls are easy.
Add another number on the list, $20 carb kit from napa and either do it yourself, or find a local friend to help you.
They are simple if you know how to use a screwdriver, and pay attention to the directions.

Thanks I've asked around town for a few weeks, no garage wants to touch it. They all just want to yank and replace. I can do that myself.
 
I did find this information, says that I should get a single plane manifold if I am going to replace it with efi.
Mopar Performance M1 Single-Plane #P4529462
 
I have got a 360 that doesn't want to start when its cold. The engine has 41k miles on it and generally runs just fine when warmed up. I really like the idea of installing an EFI system. Can someone tell me if using a 2 injector system is a terrible idea? I looked at swappable intakes and people seem to praise the factory 4bb. So my options are

#1 buy a new 2bb. ($200?)
#2 swap to 4bb, (new carb/intake rpm performer maybe?) ($500-$600?)
#3 swap to 4bb, (new carb/ find a factory intake) ($300-$400?)
#4 install a 2 injector efi system ( fuel pump+ other stuff.) (I would be lucky here at $1600)
#5 install a 4 injector efi system ( fuel pump+intake, other stuff.) (I would be lucky here at $1900)
#6 I am also told I can find a factory efi system, but its terrible (Pass)

I need this to pull a decent weight on its wheelbase and never on the strip. I never want to be at high rpms, and I do not need to exceed 70mph, with a probably average of only 55mph.

So, reliable, efficient and still pull weight on its wheelbase.

I am open to used stuff, but it has to be straight bolt on. I have no idea how to tune carbs and most of the people in my area don't even know what a carb is.


900 bucks for efi ...

Problem solved.

Holley Sniper EFI 550-849 Holley Sniper EFI 2300 Self-Tuning Kit - Shiny Finish
 
I did find this information, says that I should get a single plane manifold if I am going to replace it with efi.
Mopar Performance M1 Single-Plane #P4529462
Eh. Single planes do best at higher RPMs. If your car is street driven, stay dual plane
 
OK carb bad, dig into it, a couple cans of carb cleaner, blow with compressed air, put it together per instructions.
Just do it, worst case it only runs a little better.
 
If $900 would be the end all cost, I would do it. I need a new fuel pump/line at the very least to use the efi, and many kits say they fit 4bb only.
 
I might attempt a rebuild, but I forgot to include information. I need this to work at different sea level elevations.
 
Thanks I've asked around town for a few weeks, no garage wants to touch it. They all just want to yank and replace. I can do that myself.

Actually contact Rusty Rat Rod on here, I bet he can re-build that carb, better than new reasonable.
And give you advice on what else might be giving you issues.
 
Okay give me a minute to write something up here but those first options you had were options none-the-less but not every option for sure. Again just give me 5 minutes here thank you welcome newbie...
 
If $900 would be the end all cost, I would do it. I need a new fuel pump/line at the very least to use the efi, and many kits say they fit 4bb only.
The kit I linked from Holley is a TWO BARREL kit that comes complete, with fuel pump...
 
When i had a stock 2 barrel on my old 318 i would hold it down and let off hit the key and it would fire instantly in 10 °weather. Something is out of adjustment.
 
First of all if it doesn't run good when it's cold and it runs good when it's warmed up it's likely just your choke not working correctly? But if you're going to go different carburetor and different manifold and don't need any kind of crazy performance then yes I factory manifold 4 Barrel small-block of any vintage would be just fine. A go to carburetor for anyone in this 4 Barrel relm is definitely an Edelbrock 1406 With an electric choke.
 
Lol he is good with them, also did a great job on my old snap on ratchet, he made a video on how to rebuild air tools on here.
 
First of all if it doesn't run good when it's cold and it runs good when it's warmed up it's likely just your choke not working correctly? But if you're going to go different carburetor and different manifold and don't need any kind of crazy performance then yes I factory manifold 4 Barrel small-block of any vintage would be just fine. A go to carburetor for anyone in this 4 Barrel relm is definitely an Edelbrock 1406 With an electric choke.
I gave poor information. Its not the choke and still dies at stops signs on occasion when running "good". Its defiantly the carb. It runs fine at wide open, but idles poorly. The way I get it to stay started is to pump the gas twice when I take off. I drove it across the state without too much problems though.
 
First of all if it doesn't run good when it's cold and it runs good when it's warmed up it's likely just your choke not working correctly? But if you're going to go different carburetor and different manifold and don't need any kind of crazy performance then yes I factory manifold 4 Barrel small-block of any vintage would be just fine. A go to carburetor for anyone in this 4 Barrel relm is definitely an Edelbrock 1406 With an electric choke.

600 seems like a lot, but that shows my poor information. I was calculating something closer to 500.
 
I gave poor information. Its not the choke and still dies at stops signs on occasion when running "good". Its defiantly the carb. It runs fine at wide open, but idles poorly. The way I get it to stay started is to pump the gas twice when I take off. I drove it across the state without too much problems though.
So fresh plugs wires cap and rotor? Timed nice and perfect? And this is a big one - has no vacuum leaks?!?
 
600 seems like a lot, but that shows my poor information. I was calculating something closer to 500.
The 1406 600 CFM Edelbrock is so common and so easy. I put one on my 360 that I got for $250 that someone gave me because they couldn't get it working right on there Chevy! LOL but it had the stock jetting in it and it still wasn't big enough for the 360. But it was just a simple couple $10 adjustments. They're so extremely easy to adjust and when you say stuff about elevation just changing a set of $10 needle Jets that takes almost no time to snap in and snap out would be the ticket for you.
 
So fresh plugs wires cap and rotor? Timed nice and perfect? And this is a big one - has no vacuum leaks?!?
I cant hear any leaks, and I had it checked out by a few people already. No issues with plugs/wires etc, everything seems ok. I think I will end up breaking down and spending close to 2k on the efi system... we can call it early Christmas.
 
Thanks I've asked around town for a few weeks, no garage wants to touch it. They all just want to yank and replace. I can do that myself.
F*#KIN lame, & that's all 95% of shops are anymore, nobody "fixes" anything & their lack of knowledge is the primary reason why. Well, seeing Your revision, if this is a
feedback carb, the mixture control solenoid could be bad...hard to come by. That is a very familiar symptom.......................if not('79??) no,...You may simply need to
rebuild it. You could just get a "reman", please don't, they are notoriously poor in
quality and not even the correct jetting/air-bleeds for Your particular App in some cases. Don't be skeart, get a good kit and take Your time, get it good & clean and
study the instructions closely 1st.
 
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