Still chilly, windy, snow in the forecast and I am trying to shake off a nasty cold... But Spring WILL be here soon! Put the new Antique plate on today. Probably get it on the blacktop yet today or tomorrow...
Cinnamon 75 Duster \
- Thread starter zkx14
- Start date
-
rod7515
Well-Known Member
Hey, Hey , hey, lets not use that "s" word and Im not talking about spring! Im only a few miles from you and I dont want any of that. Glad to see you got your antique tag. It wont be long until your out driving. I havent done much lately either but need to get in gear and start to make some progress happening. Good to hear your still alive, youve been quiet!
Rod
Rod
needsaresto
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2004
- Messages
- 7,603
- Reaction score
- 265
Weather is bouncing between early spring and last of winter here in southern B.C. Yesterday was beautifull! Today I got up,snow. Yuck.
Sheet of rubber wrapped around and rubber cemented the seam
needsaresto
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2004
- Messages
- 7,603
- Reaction score
- 265
Well,I was going to post this up in my thread,but yours wil do. We are in the process of selling our house,as my Wifes M.S has progressed far enough that she needs a wheelchair friendly house. Painting,upgrading the electrical,cleaning,soring a ton of stuff or throwing it out. Busy time. Never fear I will never sell Jane. She has been my goal for 25 years,and I have a ton of parts now.Hello Paul! So pretty near time for some progress on PLain Jane?
Also amazing news on the war against M.S! I have once more gained the upper hand and am in control. Not just this,but some of you may have seen an article in the news. Yale researchers recenlty found the root cause of M.S and perhaps all autoimmune disease! It is a gut bacteria that can migrate into organs. Being a bacteria means it can possibly be treated with exixting antibiotics,and in the future there will be an immunization.Im hoping that very soon ,all autoimmune disease will be a thing of the past.That Dr Terry Wahls protocol I've been following for years now,turns out to be right.
Scientists Discover The Root Of Autoimmune Diseases – And How We Can Treat Them
Sorry to hear the wifes situation, but otherwise that's great news. Hope the new pad has a nice garage. I really know very little about MS, but will check out the link. I suggest you do repost this to your thread. I think you have more friends/followers than you realize on here that would love to hear from you.
needsaresto
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2004
- Messages
- 7,603
- Reaction score
- 265
Thanks buddy! I will repost to my thread why not.The gist of the article is very huge news. There are well over 100 autoimmune diseases,all of which remain unsolved. If it is just gut bacteria a lot of people are going to be healthy again.
That was last Sunday ...Ran good except that I thought something was a little of in the ignition. I had an OEM cap and rotor sitting in the garage that I got from Ray @halifaxhops thought it would be a good time to swap it.
So first thing I see when I pop the distrib cap is this.
That's how it all started...
So, I proceded to change the cap... Went to pull the wires out of it and one of the ends stayed in the cap. Again . So I went up to Autozone and got a new set of wires. Put everything back together. And...car would not start. I did get it going briefly by adjusting reluctor gap in, but then it was hitting. So adjusted it back out and again no start. Recheck things every which way and no go. Well, damn. At that point the battery was dying. Put on charge and go consult FABO. Upon seeing that rotor Mr. Distributor, @halifaxhops AKA Ray said "Don't run it. Let me send you one." So that was it till it showed up.
Only took a couple days till delivered, but didn't get at it till yesterday. So I swapped it. Still no go. Again adjust switch swap try swap rotate
put on charge. Go on FABO
So Ray tells me he will be over today around 11.
. So I went up to Autozone and got a new set of wires. Put everything back together. And...car would not start. I did get it going briefly by adjusting reluctor gap in, but then it was hitting. So adjusted it back out and again no start. Recheck things every which way and no go. Well, damn. At that point the battery was dying. Put on charge and go consult FABO. Upon seeing that rotor Mr. Distributor, @halifaxhops AKA Ray said "Don't run it. Let me send you one." So that was it till it showed up.Only took a couple days till delivered, but didn't get at it till yesterday. So I swapped it. Still no go. Again adjust switch swap try swap rotate
put on charge. Go on FABOSo Ray tells me he will be over today around 11.
So Ray showed up this morning with another distributor, his meter and a 'let's git er done attitude. lol.
We went through a lot of what I already tried/thought etc. Put the distrib in that he brought along. Still nothing. At one point we had two distribs each making excellent spark from the coil tower by spinning them out of the motor with just the reluctor pickup wire connected. But neither would produce a spark when installed.
This went on for quite a while... Till at some point we got a spark with one installed. Got the timing set and took a ride. Ran great. I have started it several times since and probably ran it 20+ miles in a few short test drives. At this point really don't know what the problem was. Our best guess is the controller started working when it warmed up a little? But that doesn't explain why we had spark turning it out of the engine and not when installed on multiple attempts. Another possible is an open in the wire and we were getting it in a good position when the distributor was out laying up on the alternator... Gonna try to start it early tomorrow when its cold again to test the ECU temperature response.
We went through a lot of what I already tried/thought etc. Put the distrib in that he brought along. Still nothing. At one point we had two distribs each making excellent spark from the coil tower by spinning them out of the motor with just the reluctor pickup wire connected. But neither would produce a spark when installed.
This went on for quite a while... Till at some point we got a spark with one installed. Got the timing set and took a ride. Ran great. I have started it several times since and probably ran it 20+ miles in a few short test drives. At this point really don't know what the problem was. Our best guess is the controller started working when it warmed up a little? But that doesn't explain why we had spark turning it out of the engine and not when installed on multiple attempts. Another possible is an open in the wire and we were getting it in a good position when the distributor was out laying up on the alternator... Gonna try to start it early tomorrow when its cold again to test the ECU temperature response.
Last edited:
Follow up - A brisk, sunless 29F outside here. It started right up. So what does that prove? Probably nothing...
If nothing else, I have gotten a bit of an edumacation over the last couple weeks while working through this starting problem. I have a good bit of past experience working with electronics, but not much with ignition. So I am writing this post as much to put together what I learned as to help anyone else who might be in over their head figuring out ignition gremlins.
Good drawing of a 5 pin system:
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/Dual_Ballast_5pin.pdf
More good stuff here:
MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Mopar Wiring / Electrical
Unless you seek out an old 5 pin, most controllers available are now 4 pin and are designed to work in place of either a 4 or 5 pin original. They get full voltage to pin 1 and do their own limiting internally. Pin 3 is eliminated and so is the need for the 5 ohm side of the resistor. Most dual resistors available are going to have 5ohms on one side and 1.2 on the other. Not .5 like some of the old drawings show. Which I assume is fine since the 4 pins using single resistors always were 1.2 from what I can tell.
How it works...
Beginning with the coil, cause it's really the heart of the system creating the high voltage zap needed to spark. It's (-) terminal, the coil ground, goes to pin 2 of the module and opened and closed by a transistor in the module. It is very important that the ignition module has good contact with the body to establish the circuit ground. In addition to scraping a little paint off, I added a star washer to get a good bite under one of the mount screws. The transistor functions similar to a relay. It opens and closes to interrupt the ground circuit when the base is triggered by the pickup in the distributor that is connected to pins 4 and 5 of the module. That happens each time a lobe on the reluctor passes by. You can do this with distributor out and just the 2 wire pickup plug connected. With the key in start position the (+) of the coil is provided battery volts. Spin the dist by hand and you should get a nice spark from the coil tower wire to any ground.
If everything works as it should...Turn key to start position and engine begins to crank. Reluctor triggers the transistor, which cuts ground to the coil to collapse the field and generate the high voltage in the secondary at the right moment to fire a spark in each cylinder as they reach the correct position to be ignited. Engine starts and ignition now goes to run position. Battery power no longer goes to the coil(+). Instead it is powered by the alternator limited by the 1.2ohm ballast resistor. Otherwise the circuit continues to work the same.
Anyway that's my 2cents on ignition.
Good drawing of a 5 pin system:
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/Dual_Ballast_5pin.pdf
More good stuff here:
MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Mopar Wiring / Electrical
Unless you seek out an old 5 pin, most controllers available are now 4 pin and are designed to work in place of either a 4 or 5 pin original. They get full voltage to pin 1 and do their own limiting internally. Pin 3 is eliminated and so is the need for the 5 ohm side of the resistor. Most dual resistors available are going to have 5ohms on one side and 1.2 on the other. Not .5 like some of the old drawings show. Which I assume is fine since the 4 pins using single resistors always were 1.2 from what I can tell.
How it works...
Beginning with the coil, cause it's really the heart of the system creating the high voltage zap needed to spark. It's (-) terminal, the coil ground, goes to pin 2 of the module and opened and closed by a transistor in the module. It is very important that the ignition module has good contact with the body to establish the circuit ground. In addition to scraping a little paint off, I added a star washer to get a good bite under one of the mount screws. The transistor functions similar to a relay. It opens and closes to interrupt the ground circuit when the base is triggered by the pickup in the distributor that is connected to pins 4 and 5 of the module. That happens each time a lobe on the reluctor passes by. You can do this with distributor out and just the 2 wire pickup plug connected. With the key in start position the (+) of the coil is provided battery volts. Spin the dist by hand and you should get a nice spark from the coil tower wire to any ground.
If everything works as it should...Turn key to start position and engine begins to crank. Reluctor triggers the transistor, which cuts ground to the coil to collapse the field and generate the high voltage in the secondary at the right moment to fire a spark in each cylinder as they reach the correct position to be ignited. Engine starts and ignition now goes to run position. Battery power no longer goes to the coil(+). Instead it is powered by the alternator limited by the 1.2ohm ballast resistor. Otherwise the circuit continues to work the same.
Anyway that's my 2cents on ignition.
Last edited:
rod7515
Well-Known Member
OK, so with all that said have you figured out what was or is still the issue you are/were having?
Rod
Rod
No. But it starts and runs.
I now have spare distributor, coil, ECU, and resistors. That said, I think it was either a questionable ground on the box or have a bad spot in wire for the pickup somewhere near the distributor.
Put about 150 miles on it the Duster between yesterday and today. Had it up to @halifaxhops place. Ran it on a Sun machine. Tuned up and got good reads on scope.
Here is the video of us checking it on a Sun test machine
They say "if you don't like the weather in PA, just wait, it will change" Can't be much truer than this week. 50's Sunday and Monday. Just ran the blower for the 3rd time. Got at least a foot and still going...
Yuck!!!
2 days of snow...Melting/compacting quick. I would say we got 16+. Just a few degrees above freezing now, but bright sun helped for an easy cleanup.
Last edited:
If this works...here is a spreadsheet of my costs building the Duster.
Last edited:
-
