front brake shoe 10" hardware image

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stroker402

stroker402

1968 dart GTS convertible
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Need some images :
I've been having problems with a passenger side front drum brake on my 65 formula S , It appears that one of the pistons on the right front wheel cylinder keeps pushing out too far . I think some has installed the wrong length top springs on the shoes. Can someone direct me a image to see if the springs are correct length . the driver side front has no issues with the same springs .
I'm questioning the shorter spring on the top right . I think this might be the culprit.
Thanks guys !

frt pass brake pic.jpg
 
Front spring looks tweaked for one. I was taught to put front spring on last. Not that matters.

But beyond that all the springs are, are return spring. Sure you have correct shoes and proper asjustment?
 
fklskv said:
Front spring looks tweaked for one. I was taught to put front spring on last. Not that matters.

But beyond that all the springs are, are return spring. Sure you have correct shoes and proper asjustment?
Click to expand...
Thanks !
I just went thru all my extra brake parts I have and seems like there are Many different lengths and diameters of coils . maybe someone can varify that what I have installed is the correct springs .
 
Here you go - pics from the front 10 in brakes I took off the 65 Barracuda

E5F430EF-AC17-42EA-BB31-51436E5C5978.jpeg


1252C212-F6A0-4046-AB52-D44550A9CBBC.jpeg
 
Can't say which is which as I didn't mark them. And could be incorrect as that's how they were when I bought the car 13 years ago and removed them a couple of weeks ago.!
 
Refer to your shop / service manual.

This is 10 " front brakes from 66 Dart (I suspect 65 would be the same) available here:
MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals


upload_2018-3-14_15-21-28.png


Lastly, Your adjuster does not seem to be extended at all and that would make the cylinder have to reach farther to apply the shoes and give you really weak breaking if at all.

Also have you measured the Dia of the shoes? could they be 9"? is your drum really 10" ID? I have seen people measure the OD and call a 10" drum an 11 inch.
 
Dana67Dart said:
Refer to your shop / service manual.

This is 10 " front brakes from 66 Dart (I suspect 65 would be the same) available here:
MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals


View attachment 1715152928 There we go That is a nice clear image of what is suppose to be in there . Thanks !
Yes that is what mine all looks like . I jacked the car up this morning and the front wheels spun to freely , so I set the shoes out a little further with a litle drag on them . That helped alot and the pedal came up some but not quite where I would like them . so I set the rear shoes up a couple clicks too. .

Lastly, Your adjuster does not seem to be extended at all and that would make the cylinder have to reach farther to apply the shoes and give you really weak breaking if at all.

Also have you measured the Dia of the shoes? could they be 9"? is your drum really 10" ID? I have seen people measure the OD and call a 10" drum an 11 inch.
Click to expand...
Well ,
That is a nice clear image of what is suppose to be in there . Thanks !
Yes, that is what mine all looks like . I jacked the car up this morning checked behind the backing plate to see if anything was leaking but all dry there and then spun the front wheels , They spun tooo freely , so I set the shoes out a little further with a little drag on them . That helped a lot and the pedal came up some but not quite where I would like them . so I set the rear shoes up a couple clicks too.
guess that is the best it's going to get with out putting a lot of drag on the shoes. still has the single master in it.
Shoes are 10" just what a formula S is suppose to have .
 
I always adjust the brakes till the drum can barely turn by hand. Than apply the brake a few times and check again by rotating the drum. If it rotates freely I keep doing this till there is no more change then back out the adjuster till there is just a slight touch sound as the brake drum rotates. If the auto adjusters are working correctly a few back up stops will put the shoes into the final position.

Another thing to look at is the flats the shoes ride on, on the backing plate. If there is a heavily warn in pattern it can sometimes keep the shoe from moving freely.
 
Dana67Dart said:
I always adjust the brakes till the drum can barely turn by hand. Than apply the brake a few times and check again by rotating the drum. If it rotates freely I keep doing this till there is no more change then back out the adjuster till there is just a slight touch sound as the brake drum rotates. If the auto adjusters are working correctly a few back up stops will put the shoes into the final position.



Another thing to look at is the flats the shoes ride on, on the backing plate. If there is a heavily warn in pattern it can sometimes keep the shoe from moving freely.
Click to expand...
Yep, that is the way I set them up while spinning the wheel then slam the brake on. centers the shoes in the drum .That works Great !
 
I doubt the springs matter much, as long as they pull the shoes back to the upper stop when you lift the pedal. In my 65 Dart, I used the later (~1972) "hardware kit", which has equally long shoe springs and the later-style adjuster (w/ spring on cable) and it fit fine. I adjust the star wheel until the brakes just drag when spinning, then back off slightly. First thing I do, is back up the car and jam the brakes on hard. That lets the self-adjusters do their job. Each time you will feel the pedal stroke less. New shoes may drag slightly for a while until they wear to fit the drum.
 
I disagree. For most consistant performance, including shoe retraction, the length and condition of the upper two springs is important. Chyrsler even points out it matters which one goes on the anchor first. Do it like the books show. Brakes are too important.
 
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