Steering wheel options for us Early A drivers

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ok last update: want to first clear up, the issue is beneath the hub, not the horn button. The main issue is, the install kit hub is going too far down the shaft when screwed on fully. So far down that the contact plate (that touches the roller) rubs against the turn cancel assembly including the hex screw.
That recess in the shaft can not be filled with anything as the hub slides all the way down, past that recess. Grant did send me 2 pieces of tubing (I emailed them my problem). You will see in my pictures. I used the longer tube which basically is a piece of pipe, slide it all the way down the shaft. It rests on the C ring, which is now my concern. I am afraid if I now tighten the steering wheel nut too much, it is going to push that C ring too much or break it? But it is working now, and it gave me the extra space so the contact plate is not hitting the hex screw. I can now use turn indicator without getting a Beep.
Thanks for all the ideas and help.
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I'm sure someone has tried this e-body set up. Will this bolt up to a 71 Dart column with P/S or will it be to close to the driver?

Challenger wheel.jpg


Challenger wheel.jpg
 
Just a comment on the older, large diameter, skinny stock steering wheels. Driving the '65 Formula S with factory power steering and factory steering wheel to its new home (1,500 miles in 3 days) after a short time on the highway, my hands began to ache. Never has happened before or since. Don't know what was going on (old age?).
 
If you are asking me, the steering wheel on the '65 Formula S was the original steering wheel (that made my hands ache).
 
slantsixdan said:
... a '63 Plymouth with a '93 Dodge truck/van steering wheel on it.
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Ditto. I pulled a steering wheel from a ~1990's Ram Van (recall). It slid on my 65 Dart fine. Only problem was the stub that sticks down to trip the turn signal switch seemed slightly too long since I heard a strange click when turning. Not sure I'll use it since I have the original cracked one, and just used it when moving the car around my property. Not cracked, but thicker and solid black so looks a little inelegant. BTW, when at junkyards don't overlook the Dodge Vans and Campers. It appears some used the 1960's parts, especially connectors, decades later, either because they didn't redesign as often or were using up parts.

Re the parking pad question, look at "Hidden Driveway" which is plastic grids you lay on gravel then cover w/ grass. I used it to widen my 3rd driveway which was 2 concrete tracks poured for a car trailer and too far apart for even my C-body. You can't tell it is there so neighbors must think I am a redneck who drives on the grass. Downside is idiots keep parking across that driveway, even when I have a car sitting there. I called the cops when one jerk did that, because the whole street was empty (why block me?), plus a "no parking 8a-4p" sign. Can't fix stupid, but you can ticket them.
 
Suggestion from Australia!
Why don't you buy yourself a cheap, cracked, stock later model (smaller) steering wheel, cut the rim off, then weld the smaller rim onto your original wheel centre and spokes? Then, send the wheel to one of those steering wheel restorers (I'm in Australia, so might suggest Pearlcraft). Your wheel is cracked anyway, so nothing to lose! I helped a mate out with your exact situation (1962 EJ Holden), the end result looked 100% factory original except two inches smaller in diameter.
 
I am with the original woodgrain wheel crowd ....

I put one in my 63 valiant wagon. Cost me more than a C-note but well worth it.

I cant wait to start driving the car with this wheel in front of me

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Rainy Day Auto said:
I am with the original woodgrain wheel crowd ....

I put one in my 63 valiant wagon. Cost me more than a C-note but well worth it.

I cant wait to start driving the car with this wheel in front of me

View attachment 1715152949
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A little off mark here. I have a 2014 ram, and love the fat rim steering wheel in it. After driving it and then getting in the barracuda, the fishes wheel feels so skinney it`s terrible. I have been thinking on maybe trying to figure out a way to make the fish wheel fatter. Don`t want the hassle of horn problems associated w/ after market steering wheels. Altho I do like the fat foam steering wheels from back in the day, just never had but one, that the horn worked right.
ANY SUGGESTIONS ???
 
famous bob said:
A little off mark here. I have a 2014 ram, and love the fat rim steering wheel in it. After driving it and then getting in the barracuda, the fishes wheel feels so skinney it`s terrible. I have been thinking on maybe trying to figure out a way to make the fish wheel fatter. Don`t want the hassle of horn problems associated w/ after market steering wheels. Altho I do like the fat foam steering wheels from back in the day, just never had but one, that the horn worked right.
ANY SUGGESTIONS ???
Click to expand...

Steering wheel cover with the string tie all around and some foam. ....a lot of foam
 
famous bob said:
A little off mark here. I have a 2014 ram, and love the fat rim steering wheel in it. After driving it and then getting in the barracuda, the fishes wheel feels so skinney it`s terrible. I have been thinking on maybe trying to figure out a way to make the fish wheel fatter. Don`t want the hassle of horn problems associated w/ after market steering wheels. Altho I do like the fat foam steering wheels from back in the day, just never had but one, that the horn worked right.
ANY SUGGESTIONS ???
Click to expand...


I have the opposite problem because my daily driver is a 68 dart and it's my only transportation.....i don't have a newer car. So on the rare occasion I drive someone else's newer car, the wheel feels so bulky and too much. :)
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
Steering wheel cover with the string tie all around and some foam. ....a lot of foam
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already got that on it, was wondering about putting another over it, but still wouldn`t be as fat as the rams wheel. One can use the black rtv gasket sealer to keep the squirm around from happening. But , I wonder about the foam, and what kind ?????????
 
Agreed, going with the sport wheel in my 66 I also just put a black cover over the wood grain due to a crack, I have another one complete with horn button but to think you could find one for $100
I couldn’t.
And I bought 2.
It’s Going to swap meet next month
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
I have the opposite problem because my daily driver is a 68 dart and it's my only transportation.....i don't have a newer car. So on the rare occasion I drive someone else's newer car, the wheel feels so bulky and too much. :)
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MAN U GET USED TO THEM REAL FAST THO !
 
Grizzle: I too haves Grant wheel, the expensive wood wheel and love it. I’ve had the same issues as you, but never contacted Grant for a fix. Do you have info or a part number for that sleeve you speakers of?

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repaired and painted mine Black to go with the Black and gun metal dash.

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On my '65 Dart GT. Had the wheel and shifter painted to look like burled wood.

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famous bob said:
I have been thinking on maybe trying to figure out a way to make the fish wheel fatter. Don`t want the hassle of horn problems associated w/ after market steering wheels. Altho I do like the fat foam steering wheels from back in the day, just never had but one, that the horn worked right.
ANY SUGGESTIONS ???
Click to expand...

Check out the latest issued Mopar Action. Ehrenberg wrote an article on steering wheels. One of the things he did was send a large diameter steering wheel to a guy who cut it down, added a smaller diameter hoop, then thickened it up to make it more comfy.
 
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