Ebay twin turbo setup Checklist...Turbo a SBM for under $1000? :)

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Caco2120

Caco2120

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SO here I sit, with a mid 70's, low compression 318. 60K miles...and a desire to turbo something! And yes this includes some ricer math and bench racing, so don't beat me up too bad.

So I keep coming across all these ebay turbo's and china (yes I'm sorry) ebay components that make this seem fairly do-able, and cheap ta-boot.

So is it worth it? well I figure a strong SB from BP or ATK would run me at a minimum $4000, and make almost 375 hp, and around 460 ft lbs.

So for $900-1000 in hard parts, and another $1500 in a fitech or sniper setup...I'd have $2500 in probably the same 375 HP, and 460 ft lb engine....which is enough to have fun with IMO for a street/strip car. probably run 13's in an A-body, maybe even high 12's.

So here's the list...from ebay.

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I'll break this up into a few posts so its not overbearing.

here's the plan.

2- twin t3/t4 hybrids ran into a single 2into-1 intercooler. then plumbed back to a carb hat, Sitting atop a Sniper or Fitech.

So add one of these to the above, and compatible pump/distributor, and boom.... Well hopefully not "boom" but vroom...lol

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Pace Gives us a nice little discount of you deal with Johnny Directly, so call the above $1600
Super Stores - Mopar SB/BB Superstore

so 1600, plus 900 of ebay glory...and Bingo, $2500

now I realize i'll have to cut and re-weld mopar flanges on the headers above. and some other odds and ends like downpipes...but this is not too far off of a complete setup.
 
The math:

So a mid 70's 318 make all of what? 160 HP...? 260 ish ft lbs?

@ 10 PSI

I have always heard to double your HP, you need 14 PSI, because that's atmospheric pressure, so you're adding another atmosphere.

so @ 10PSI...I wouldn't quite double it, so be at maybe 300? tops.

I think it would live there, being low compression, and not a insane amount of boost. plus efi control, and adequate fuel flow...

So there you have it. My winter project. Any objections, refinements, laughs? lol love to hear opinions
 
Super cheap turbo?

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BigBlockMopar said:
You forgot to add another $4k for the 2nd engine, when (not if) the first one blows that is.
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no faith! lol....that engine has what? 7:1 compression... i think it'll live through at least 8 psi!
 
But not the shredded turbo bits that get shoved into it.
 
lol ok. i see what this thread needs...a poll!
What blows first?

we have one vote for the 40 year old engine
another for the offshore turbo
I think it'll live, china turbo's and all for quite a while.
 
Sorry for being pessimistic but I've seen several self destruct. Now if it was a quality turbo ......
 
The first reason it might blow early is because EFI will be involved.
A few too optimistic values in a small number of ignition or fuel table cells can seal the engine's destiny quicker one would hope for.

;)
 
I really like were your going with this and have thought allot about it also.
But being a lowly stock 318 I would shoot for more around 5 to 8lbs of boost with a single Turbo and see how she likes it. Ive seen it done succesfully in completely stock 1600cc VW air cooled motors.
Big difference of course but the overall theory is the same.
(taking small cc's and cramming as much air and fuel in it as it can take)
Twin Turbos with 10lbs of boost is to much for a stock 318.
At least it will be once you feel that turbo kick in and your right foot cant stay still.......
Good luck and keep us all posted.
 
I'm pretty confident a self learning EFI system adds to the success possibility, not detracts. the power adders even have laptop software, and so does the holley.
small twins with 2 wastegates set at 8-10 psi, and a large blowoff should help...Yeah I could buy a blow through carb, but that won't have the adjustability and won't control timing.

If it grenades...then o man, where will I find another junkyard 318 with 60k miles on it.????
 
60,000 is just nicely broke in, just put a new double roller chain on it. Sneak up on the boost while you sneak down on the tune.
But above all take those turbos apart and rebuild 'em before you bolt 'em on. China doesn't charge extra for the debris they ship along inside of them. That's hearsay btw.
There's only a couple of things worse than two piled up turbos spewing their guts into your intake, after you spent every last dollar you saved up for the last three years.
And there are only a few things better than 450 hp, and I think 450ftlbs at stall could be one of them. Then the next one would be when you finally figure out how to make it hook.
450# at 3000 thru a 2.45 low and 3.55s would be about 3900 ftlbs to the axles. Hyup, I know exactly what that feels like; Hang on everybody!, and pray it goes straight! lol. Actually it's not that exiting but you get the idea. 6000# to the axles, now yer talking! Crazy-talking.

But I was in your shoes about 20 years ago. And I knew I could never afford to do it twice, so I went with tried and true Normally Aspirated,hi-compression 360. I took the engine out and apart 5 or 6 winters in a row, looking for chit. And three of those winters, sure enough chit was happening. But every time I caught it in time and it was a cheap repair. I bought reuseable gaskets on day one, so it only cost me time.At that time the body was fresh outta the bodyshop, and if the engine hadda gone down, the back-up winter-teener wouldda had to be the full-time engine.
But I gotta tell you one thing I learned. For a streeter; gears are everything. That stock long-block 318 could be nearly as much fun as that hi-powered 360; all it took was gears.
It's a lil different tho with a DD or multi-purpose car. If the engine has to pull past 65mph, then a lack of power quickly shows up. And buzzing along the freeway in the 3000s is also not fun.
But for a city-car a stock long block teener, with a 4bbl,headers, a 2800TC, and the right gears can be an awful lotta fun. Make mine a TQ. And make sure it spins at least 5000 without pumping up the lifters. 3.55s and 4000 will get you about 35 in low, and 60 in second.
But the most fun I had was with 4.30s. 5000 was 36 in Low,61 in 2nd, and 90 wound up tight in D. Hyup that was fun. If it wasn't any faster, I didn't care; cuz it sure sounded faster.
 
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Caco2120 said:
I'm pretty confident a self learning EFI system adds to the success possibility, not detracts. the power adders even have laptop software, and so does the holley.
small twins with 2 wastegates set at 8-10 psi, and a large blowoff should help...Yeah I could buy a blow through carb, but that won't have the adjustability and won't control timing.

If it grenades...then o man, where will I find another junkyard 318 with 60k miles on it.????
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Even though it is self learning, I'd pay a little at the dyno. Or learn the software and tune with a wideband on the street.

My car has a self tuning system(I'm betting more primitive than the one you're ordering). It works well, but I wouldn't trust it to self tune forced induction.

Otherwise, Good luck! I want to see results and the eventual piston pin through the block.
 
Caco2120 said:
The math:

So a mid 70's 318 make all of what? 160 HP...? 260 ish ft lbs?
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150 net. 230 gross. People do this all the time. they quote one motor in gross (your 375 hp motor example), and then use the net on the teen.
 
318willrun said:
150 net. 230 gross. People do this all the time. they quote one motor in gross (your 375 hp motor example), and then use the net on the teen.
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I don't get the difference in both ratings. If I strap it to an engine dyno, it makes ***....that's what I call crank HP...Is that synonymous with "gross"? is "net" RWHP?

so my lightly used teener makes 230 "crank"?...so 400 at 10 psi...even more run.lol
 
magnumdust said:
Even though it is self learning, I'd pay a little at the dyno. Or learn the software and tune with a wideband on the street.

My car has a self tuning system(I'm betting more primitive than the one you're ordering). It works well, but I wouldn't trust it to self tune forced induction.

Otherwise, Good luck! I want to see results and the eventual piston pin through the block.
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I plan on data logging, and the fitech and sniper both have wideband / afr displays.
 
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Mine is built with a lot of EBay stuff; turbo, wastegate, BOV, misc fittings. It adds up but still not as much as a crate engine. Biggest headache is all of the piping, but that's mostly lots of time, not money. Go for it!
 
Hey did anything come of this? Is it in a different thread or just never got updated?
 
abodyjoe said:
I’d love to do a turbo set up. I have no idea where I’d even start though.
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you're to blame for my ebay spending.lol that 20% coupon code you sent out!!

I'm on board with much of the thought process above. 8psi probably won't kill the engine...The efi should help with logging, preventing lean outs. I'm thinking the clutches in the 904 let loose before the pistons do.

guess we will see this summer. Worst case scenario.... i know a place that sells engines :p
 
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