doing my power to manual swap I have the pump out trying to get the box out but the 2 bolts closest to the engine block seem to be a pita to get too. So anywon have an easy way? Also I’m going to be replacing the control arms as well so would it be smart to just remove the lower one now to maybe create some space?
Manual swap
- Thread starter Just a 73
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sccachallenger
Well-Known Member
I'm sure someone else will jump in with help.
But yes, removing the arm and torsion bar should greatly improve your access.
But yes, removing the arm and torsion bar should greatly improve your access.
Frnknsteen
Well-Known Member
We just swapped out my manual 24:1 box for a new Firm Feel 20:1 box. With my 400 and headers, we ended up taking out both motor mount bolts and lifting the whole engine to get enough clearance to get them out. And that was after pulling the driver side header.
Moral of the story,... I don't know that there IS an easy way to do that!
Moral of the story,... I don't know that there IS an easy way to do that!
gregpurcell
Greg Purcell
I remember my first power to manual conversion! 18 years old working on the car on a day I had to drive it to work! Got it swapped with time to spare until I went to replace the steering column! This lesson I learned well that day: MANUAL STEERING USES A LONGER COLUMN AND A DIFFERENT SIZE STEERING COUPLER!
Just thought that I would interject that in your post to make certain you have planned for it. You need the manual column and coupler or a conversion link.
GOOD LUCK!
Just thought that I would interject that in your post to make certain you have planned for it. You need the manual column and coupler or a conversion link.
GOOD LUCK!
I did this swap last summer and the bolts should be accessible from beneath the car without disassembling the suspension. I have non-stock exhaust (Doug's headers) so that may have made a difference but I can't quite recall.
Can you see what parts are in the way?
Can you see what parts are in the way?
Because the stock over-boosted power steering gives very little to no road feel. I’d rather know what my car is doing than be able to steer with my pinky finger. It also weighs a ton, and depending on the engine, headers etc used it can be much harder to work around than the smaller manual steering box.
I prefer manual steering, especially over the stock Mopar power set up. Even with a fast ratio, 16:1 manual box the steering effort and feel is great at speed IMO. Below 10mph it can be a little tough but I also run really wide front tires and a ton of positive caster, both of which add to the steering effort at slow speeds compared to a more “traditional” set up with narrower tires and less caster.
d55dave
Well-Known Member
As 72blunblu said. It is along the same lines as power brakes in an A body. They honestly arent required, add weight and crowd the engine compartment.
Ok thanks for the answers. It’s been nearly 40 years since I drove my Demon as I just recently bought it back and it has manual steering and drum brakes. I’m in the process of getting it back on the road and was thinking about doing a power steering/disc brake swap but I may be rethinking that now.
The disk brake swap you should do, you just don’t need a power booster. Manual disks work great.
As for the power steering, that’s a personal preference. But if I wanted to go from manual to power I would use a Borgeson power steering set up, not a stock Mopar power steering set up. If you have to buy all the stock power steering components new, or have them rebuilt, the borgeson set up won’t be that much more. And it will have a much better feel, as well as being smaller and lighter.
I couldn't agree more!
Some of what makes A-bodies so special is their simplicity and relatively light weight. Manual steering and manual brakes only add to that formula.
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