I never considered them because they would lower the car a little, (bad for tire clearance in my case) but the way u did it probably didn`t. good idea.I run them on my Duster. Street car, set up for handling. The sliders have less play, no bushings just bearings. Smoother operation, less flex, less binding through travel, faster spring reaction. Good for handling or drag racing. I've heard some people say they're not supposed to be for street use, but I don't see why not. They click sometimes, but I can't hear that over my exhaust most of the time. And the bearings are sealed, and replaceable. Probably won't last quite as long as a bushing but they're easy to change anyway. I made a bracket for mine, so no cutting or welding on the car and I can easily change them if they wear out. Mine are afco's, Calvert makes a set with a built in angle that follows the spring motion a little better. I have some more info on my install in my build thread.
I never considered them because they would lower the car a little, (bad for tire clearance in my case) but the way u did it probably didn`t. good idea.
cool, I can`t stand 3/8 right now ! maybe later if I decide to sell my rear prostars and 295 65 d/r. and go to 295 55`s or whatever the shorterone are.It lowered it a little doing it that way. Not much though, little less than 3/8". But I was ok with that, I may go a little lower still. Probably have to get rid of the bump in the stock wheel tub before I do that though.
cool, I can`t stand 3/8 right now ! maybe later if I decide to sell my rear prostars and 295 65 d/r. and go to 295 55`s or whatever the shorterone are.
Do you make those brackets and sell them..???I run them on my Duster. Street car, set up for handling. The sliders have less play, no bushings just bearings. Smoother operation, less flex, less binding through travel, faster spring reaction. Good for handling or drag racing. I've heard some people say they're not supposed to be for street use, but I don't see why not. They click sometimes, but I can't hear that over my exhaust most of the time. And the bearings are sealed, and replaceable. Probably won't last quite as long as a bushing but they're easy to change anyway. I made a bracket for mine, so no cutting or welding on the car and I can easily change them if they wear out. Mine are afco's, Calvert makes a set with a built in angle that follows the spring motion a little better. I have some more info on my install in my build thread.
I`m into trying to make elec. fans work w/ my 505 right now. I guess I could make the adapters w/ a 3/4" offset and raise them too, if I stay w/ the 295 65 15 d.radials. Wouldn`t be any problem w/ the 275`s.Do you make those brackets and sell them..???
I found these as an adapter.I`m into trying to make elec. fans work w/ my 505 right now. I guess I could make the adapters w/ a 3/4" offset and raise them too, if I stay w/ the 295 65 15 d.radials. Wouldn`t be any problem w/ the 275`s.
Do you make those brackets and sell them..???
You wont believe what they go to ..FJ40 Frame Body Mount Bracket- 1958 through 1/1979 land cruiserNo, I just build stuff for my own car, I don’t make stuff to sell. I didn’t build s jig or anything and way I made that set of brackets wouldn’t really be time/cost effective to build them to sell. I’d have to charge a bunch of money for them and only a few people would even want them. Plus I’m not taking on that liability.
I posted all the dimensions in my build thread, they’re not all that difficult to make if you can weld.
Looks like a good way to do it, you’d just need to drill some holes if they’re the right size. What’s the source for those?
$50 for the pair on these..FJ40 Frame Body Mount Braket- 1958-1/1979 [BMS3032] : Cruiser Solutions, custom cruisers, restorations, genuine Toyota parts, body tubs, used Land Cruisers for sale
$50 a pop? Ouch. And I don't see any dimensions listed, so unless you know they're the right size you could be modifying those significantly anyway
I found some other brackets cost is less .I tried to pm you the link but it said your mailbox is full.exactlty the reason we are asking someone that has made a pair to make more ,I'd pay $100 for a well made pair that had the 3/4 offset to match offset front hangers .
exactlty the reason we are asking someone that has made a pair to make more ,I'd pay $100 for a well made pair that had the 3/4 offset to match offset front hangers .
thanks I'll check my box there is only 2 conversations on there bit who knows with this new fabo setup.I found some other brackets cost is less .I tried to pm you the link but it said your mailbox is full.
$66 for the whole thing.
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otay 1/2 inch then lol anything that gets the shim washers out from behind my rims eh !You mean a 1/2” offset to match the front hangers? Because that’s all the front hangers are offset. The “3/4” offset kit is a 1/2” offset front hanger and a 3/4” offset rear shackle with a side load on the front half of the spring with the perches moved in 3/4”. There's only a 1/2" of space between the outside of the stock brackets and the frame rail.
Regardless, the way I made my brackets I’m pretty sure the most I could get out of them would be the 1/2” I put on the mine. The reason is the same as the front, the frame rail is only a 1/2” away. You wouldn’t be able to get at the nuts for the sliders if they were moved over another 1/4”. The rear ones are already inside the shackle mount/bumper brace.
You mean a 1/2” offset to match the front hangers? Because that’s all the front hangers are offset. The “3/4” offset kit is a 1/2” offset front hanger and a 3/4” offset rear shackle with a side load on the front half of the spring with the perches moved in 3/4”. There's only a 1/2" of space between the outside of the stock brackets and the frame rail.
Regardless, the way I made my brackets I’m pretty sure the most I could get out of them would be the 1/2” I put on the mine. The reason is the same as the front, the frame rail is only a 1/2” away. You wouldn’t be able to get at the nuts for the sliders if they were moved over another 1/4”. The rear ones are already inside the shackle mount/bumper brace.